Cast Crawford Finally Installed
Cast Crawford Finally Installed
Well, after the powdercoating fiasco, and the stripped hex fiasco......well there is still another but I will finsih that next week! It was supposed to be powdercoated Black Chrome to match the wheels, but ya know how my luck is!! It is gloss black now and a huge improvement over the black wrinkle finish that it comes in. Anyway, it's on and my feedback is basically that it's a great mod! Extra valvetrain noise doesn't really bother me. The only other issue is the slightly rough idle after warm up. Of course my idle was kinda rough before so I may try a grounding kit and maybe even have Atlantic but up the idle for me. After it warms up, if I let it idle for a few minutes it will dip down to about 600 or 550 RPM. Even when it's not dipping down its only at about 650 or 700. I think it should be a lil higher. Anyway, I didn't notice any gain or loss in the lowend but from 4K plus - HOLD ON!!! Def pulls harder and accellerates faster!
In general the project fought me the whole way and I still say it's worth it! Not to mention I finally christened the powdercoat with a nice scratch!!! Yeah, ya know my luck!!!
In general the project fought me the whole way and I still say it's worth it! Not to mention I finally christened the powdercoat with a nice scratch!!! Yeah, ya know my luck!!!
Me myself and I did the install. It's very easy, but I made it more complicated by being over anxious and trying to remove the (4) 5mm hex bolts attaching the TB to the plenum with a standard bit. Needless to say the first 3 came out fine, but I stripped the last one which cause several trips to Sears for removal bits which didn't work....Very difficult to work, little room, etc.. Then I had to find out if I can unplug the TB so I can remove everything and try to dremel a slot so I can use a monster flat head screwdriver to back it out. This was all last Saturday when I stripped it. So, during the week, I ordered 4 new bolts from Atlantic just to be safe and borrowed my bro in laws dremel to cut the slot which didn't work (another trip to Sears for a monster flat head). Finally said F' it and drilled it out. Came out very clean actually. Once I snapped the head of the hex bolt, the TB came off and the remaining bolt twisted right out by hand!
The final problem is that I dunno how, the threaded hole on the lower left of the plenum where the TB gets bolted to apparrently wasn't tapped or got stripped somehow...powder coater maybe??? It was my fault for not checking all the holes prior. Anyway, with it installed I was able to get a tap in there to get a few threads cut. I am able to get most of the bolt in there, but I used a smaller tap so I reached a point where I feel if I turn it anymore, I may just snap the bolt. The TB is well sealed so before I lost my patience, I figured lemme test it out. The seal is fine for now but I will fix it this weekend so its perfect!
Lemme tell you guys, this is the best mod IMO...I actually feel it pull harder in the upper rev band!
Next up - I have to cut the CF engine cover. I think that will give it a nice finishing touch!
The final problem is that I dunno how, the threaded hole on the lower left of the plenum where the TB gets bolted to apparrently wasn't tapped or got stripped somehow...powder coater maybe??? It was my fault for not checking all the holes prior. Anyway, with it installed I was able to get a tap in there to get a few threads cut. I am able to get most of the bolt in there, but I used a smaller tap so I reached a point where I feel if I turn it anymore, I may just snap the bolt. The TB is well sealed so before I lost my patience, I figured lemme test it out. The seal is fine for now but I will fix it this weekend so its perfect!
Lemme tell you guys, this is the best mod IMO...I actually feel it pull harder in the upper rev band!
Next up - I have to cut the CF engine cover. I think that will give it a nice finishing touch!
Na, I spoke with Doug at Crawford about that and he said there is no need. They Reco using a 1/4" drive ratchet ( I am assuming so you don't over torque them). Basically, it is an air seal, not a liquid one so it doesn't need to be tightened down all that much. I used a 3/8" drive ratchet and just made them a lil more then snug. I just help my hand close to the ratchet portion and not at the end of the handle so I could eliminate some of the leverage. You know when its tight enough! No need to kill it, they just need to make a decent seal!
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Originally Posted by Babiephat
What was wrong with the original "Forest Green" Plenum...?? LOL...!
Are you planning to Dyno, etc. to make sure you the A/F ratio is not running too rich/lean?
Are you planning to Dyno, etc. to make sure you the A/F ratio is not running too rich/lean?
All Diesel prob needs to finish off the work on the mod is an ECU reset ala Martin........ just like the one he preformed on Speeds whip, then it's off to the dyno
Originally Posted by O NO
Jas
All Diesel prob needs to finish off the work on the mod is an ECU reset ala Martin........ just like the one he preformed on Speeds whip, then it's off to the dyno
All Diesel prob needs to finish off the work on the mod is an ECU reset ala Martin........ just like the one he preformed on Speeds whip, then it's off to the dyno

I'll pass... lol...
Well according to the Doug at Crawford, the ECU reset is hogwash. I will redyno after I order and install a few more goodies. No point in spending the $$ to dyno now!
I have a microtorque wrench which I used to set mine at 65in/lbs, not really needed just used to make sure I didn't over torque them.
I wasn't happy at all with my AAM spacer (reason I sold it), that full plenum replacement is truely a much better option.
I wasn't happy at all with my AAM spacer (reason I sold it), that full plenum replacement is truely a much better option.
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saskicker32
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Aug 11, 2015 02:12 PM




