Hey guys,

So I've had my G35 Coupe for 4 months now, and I have 2150 miles ( I know, I know... I hardly drive it) Anyhow, I'm getting ready to do my first oil change and I've read different posts under the search and they seem to differ. Therefore, I would like, if possible, for the great members of this forum to clear a couple things up for me.

1) What kind of oil to I use... synthetic or conventional?
2) What viscosity do I use and brand?
3) What oil filter do I use?
4) How do I get access to the bottom of the car... ramps? Jack it up? If so, with what?
5) Do I need to change the drain gasket plug at every oil change and if so where do I get the plugs?
6) Finally, what size sockets and any other tool for that matter do I need with this particular car?

Thanks much in advance for all your help with this.

 

Nobody guys... I feel so dissappointed

 

Search is your friend.

Use Mobil 5w 30 non syn.

 

Yes it really has been covered many times, but basically, use the oil that makes you feel good. Synthetic is more $$$$ but some say will protect better, yield more engine life, and yeild a few extra ponies. ( I like it)......just make sure you use 5W30 (5 quarts) that Infiniti recommends. A good brand filter is a must, but if you're not sure, just stick with the OEM and get some copper drain plug gaskets while you're there.
They also should be changed every time you pull the plug.

I've got Rhino ramps (popular of most car parts stores) to raise the front to access the bolts (10mm) holding the cover on and do the change. The drain plug is a 14mm size (at least my '03 was).
Other than that, just a pair of safety stands, a catch can for the old oil and a small filter wrench to remove the old one.

G/L and have fun.
C.

 

you need to get the low profile ramps...otherwise it will not be able
to get under the front.

 

What kind of low profile and where can I get them?

 

Get the black plastic Rhyno ramps. You can get them at Pep Boyz or Auto Zone, even wal-Mart.

 

If using the ramp for the oil change, the car is sitting at a pretty decent slope. I am a bit worrying about the amount of old oil remain in the oil pan - I know it is an insignificant amount but knowing that I didn't completely drain the system before putting in new oil is bothering me.

Thanks,
Nelson

 

[QUOTE=Msedanman] get some copper drain plug gaskets while you're there.
They also should be changed every time you pull the plug.


Why? I've been changing my oil since day 1 and with 44k I haven't had any problems with this gasket and it is the original.

 

The "washer" (not "gasket" unless you all are speaking in terms that I have never heard of...) doesn't have to be changed out every time, but they say to do so for a reason... I always have extra washers sitting around, and whenever I change my oil, I'll check the washer to see if it needs to be changed. As for the bolt itself, it's a good idea to change that out once in a while too. You should be able to find both at a place like Home Depot for about a dollar (if even that much) btw... you just need to know what kind of thread and size. You can get huge packs of locking washers for cheap there too.

And while you're at it, do your motor a favor and get a magnetic drain bolt. While it doesn't really do much, you'll still pull out a good amount of metal shavings the next time you change your oil.

Also, to add to the oil change practices, flush out your motor if you are changing to a different type of oil... not sure how necessary this is, but it's just something I'm used to doing.

And for the noobs who have never heard this before, do not mix synthetic with conventional motor oil - ever.

As for the oil filter, unless you always change your oil by 3k miles, I suggest anything that isn't made by Honeywell. Although they're pricier, I prefer factory or K&N.
Take off the old oil filter with a filter wrench, and if that isn't enough, stick a screwdriver in it. And I suggest hand torqueing the new filter on just enough, but not too much. Be sure to take the gasket out of the new oil filter and oil it up with old motor oil before putting it on.

If you're so **** that you worry about small details like that, then use a jack, drain the oil, drop the car to let it drain a bit more, then lift it back up to finish the oil change - like I do...

 

i have 20k miles on my 6MT G would it be a bad idea to switch to synthetic?

 

i have used mobil 1 5w 30 syn since 1000 mile change, with the oem filter and a new copper washer from the dealer. no problems

the oil gets dirty faster with the k&n filter though

 

what's the consequence for not changing the washers?