The tech's at sound advice are adivsing me to have my alternator rewound, they said that i need it to produce at least 200-220+ amps, What does ours work at?

I am going to be running this stuff:

-A lot of neons
-(2) JL 10w7's "Fiberglass molded in trunk"
-Front and Rear MB Quart PCE216 6.5"
-Rear deck MB Quart RCE269 6"x9"
-JL 1000/1
-JL 450/4
-JL 300/2
-(2) Monster DigiCap 1 Farad

They are also recommending to add another small battery?

What are you all's opinions, and what is the output for our alternator....?

Thanks!
-Eric

'03.5 Bril Silver/Black || Prem || Perf || Aero || Solid Allum Pedals || Allum Matts (Infinit Logo) || Tints

 

If my alternator is replaced or respun.... what level of engine power loss am i looking at ????

'03.5 Bril Silver/Black || Prem || Perf || Aero || Solid Allum Pedals || Allum Matts (Infinit Logo) || Tints

 

As far as I know our alternator is rated for 110 amps. I run a JBL 2200.1 amp with dual JBL 10" power series 1600's and I dont have any problems. That amp puts out over 4000 watts peak and 2200 RMS and with a 2.0 Farad cap the lights don't even blink when it's cranked with the air conditioning on full blast. I don't know what kind of amperage the neons draw so I can't comment on that but I think that you would be ok.


Silverstone 6MT Maya DTM 20's

 

All your JL amps put out 1750 watts RMS, and they do so down to 11 volts, that's 159 amps. I've heard they can put out more than they're rated for, but I doubt you'd be running that kind of power consistently cause that's cranked way the hell up. At normal listening levels you should be drawing a lot less current.

I've also read that our alts are good at 110 amps, and that's usallly above 2k rpm. So as long as you're not blasting the stereo while the car is idling for a long time, you should be plenty good.


2003 G35 Coupe 6MT Black/black
South Bay Area, CA

 

What would happen if i had the system playing really loud while the car was idle for a long time, ie. a long red light...or showing system off?

-Eric

'03.5 Bril Silver/Black || Prem || Perf || Aero || Solid Allum Pedals || Allum Matts (Infinit Logo) || Tints

 

it would drain your battery, electrical system would start messing up, car would die. You'd have to get a jump.

But long time here isn't at a long red light, it's like 20 minutes? or something...same thing as if you left the car with the headlights (or in our case, the seat warmers) on after turning off the car...you'd get a dead battery.


2003 G35 Coupe 6MT Black/black
Bay Area, CA

 

For that amount of power usuage, i don't see any reason why you need a modify alternator. If you have 10 amps and so forth, i can see why. This is not the case with you.

I think what you should do is get a better battery. I will upgrade mine soon. Get the optima or the odyssey battery. Those are design for car stereo system.

g35mt

 

Thanks bro, i was not looking forward to changing the alternator, with the performance loss, and the garage time for the car...
I am going to just go with the battery trick, and see how that goes...

Thanks
-Eric

'03.5 Bril Silver/Black || Prem || Perf || Aero || Solid Allum Pedals || Allum Matts (Infinit Logo) || Tints

 

What battery would you all recommend for this car???


Thanks
-Eric

'03.5 Bril Silver/Black || Prem || Perf || Aero || Solid Allum Pedals || Allum Matts (Infinit Logo) || Tints

 

Get A Optima Yellow top, It's deep Cycle so you can Run it down And it will Recharge, Do this to a Red Top and You'll have to Throw it out. There is an Outfit in OHIO that does rewindings of the Altenator. A lot of the SPL people in Auto Sound go to them.

I'm Just A Simple Man, Trying to Make My Way Through The Universe......."JangoFett"
NismoCPV-35

 

I had 3 10w6's, 3 Precision Power Amps pc1400 (2) PC275, All JL audio components in my Prelude.

For power I had 1 1 Farad cap in the back and a Optima Yellow top in the Trunk. powered with 1/0 power cable. Never had any problems. Hardly any diming. Even tailgated with the car for hours at full blast with no problems. You should be fine with a battery and a cap.

Let's see the install when it's all done. Good Luck

 

ericinmie,

I used the optima battery before and i like it.

My friend mentioned that odyssey battery is also good. SOon i will replace it with odyssey battery. I am sure it is as good or better than the optima. Just the fact that this company prodcue for the military, their quality must be really good. Plus my friend have it on his porsche, he seem to like it.

g35mt

 

Where is the best place to get one of these batteries, either local, or on the internet.....Any good deals?

I am looking at probably replacing the G battery with the Optima D31A, and putting one in the trunk, about 145 AMPS together.


Are there any better suggestions?

Thanks,
-Eric

'03.5 Bril Silver/Black || Prem || Perf || Aero || Solid Allum Pedals || Allum Matts (Infinit Logo) || Tints

 

You can get the optima from pep boys, kragen, car audio stores and the price range is between $150 and $175.

If you're going with an altenator, ONLY go with Ohio generator or dommick's Altenator @ www.tempro.com. These are the only alts that I know of that gives a large amount of power at low idle. But make sure get your system first, then your charging system, I heard it's bad to overcharge your battery as well (18 wheelers overcharge all the time and they drain the power at rest stops.)

2003 G35 Coupe 6mt Diamond Graphite
1992 Jeep Cherokee Blk 5.5 RE lift /w 33s
AIM= bkchang79

 

That model won't work. The battery posts on our G's are reversed. Optima only makes a red top that will work with our cars. I had my alt tested and it put out 126 amps at 2200 RPM. I have the JL 450/4 and the 500/1. If I crank both of them, my engine will start to stutter. (It could be the bumps from my 12W7 that I'm confusing engine stuttering though. The RPM needle dances with the bumps.)

I would also upgrade the the magic three. Add additional wire from the - batt to the chassis ground, alt to + batt, and engine to chassis. I've done 2 of the 3. I can't get to the alt to do that one.