I got the mod bug... WTB a lot of stuff!
mods
Don't overlook what the fella's are saying. If you truely have the mod bug, do the research and go forced induction. These cars don't have alot of easily obtainable hp/tq. A couple of the mods will get you between 1 to 20 hp, but they don't add up in series! Some rob others, while going FI will get you there right now! Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by Silverbolt
Bolt ons wont even come close to costing as much as a good TT with instalation... unless you're buying some crazy rare JDM stuff to make it add up to $10,000! I'm not saying anything bad about TT... I'm just throwing it out there so no one thinks that a TT is a couple thousand bucks.
Originally Posted by Jp1
Don't overlook what the fella's are saying. If you truely have the mod bug, do the research and go forced induction. These cars don't have alot of easily obtainable hp/tq. A couple of the mods will get you between 1 to 20 hp, but they don't add up in series! Some rob others, while going FI will get you there right now! Hope this helps.
Your goal for your project needs to be decided upon right away. That will make all the difference in your choice to stay N/A or go FI. There's only one ticket to big power in the G, and that's FI. However, while all that power equals big fun, it's not the only way to increase the overall performance of your G while also increasing the overall fun factor.
If you'd just like a little boost in performance and a meaner sound, it's hard to argue with the Z-tube, MREV, Cats (or exhaust) combo. It provides just that without the cost or anxiety of going FI. Pretty much a mild/moderate build, but if that's all you're after, then that's all that is needed.
Bodykits, wheels/tires, etc, should be grouped into a part of your build seperate from your performance plans. The only exception, IMO, is if you're talking about a specific bumper or hood needed to clear your FI application. We'll assume that you'll make the car look the way you want, regardless if it's N/A or FI. If you're going to go FI, you probably have the means to take care of the cosmetics as well.
If you simply have a budget of say, $10K, and want to get the most done for the money, you're still back to the original need to determine your goal with the car.
Obviously, if big power is your sole priority (which seems to be the motivating factor for most first builds), then FI is the key. There are some wonderful things to be said for a fairly stock-looking G that's laying down 450+HP. Honestly, if I was in a colder climate, I wouldn't have had such an aversion to going FI with the G. But a previous modified turbo project ('97 Mitsu. GSX) made me aware of just how harsh this part of Texas is on turbocharged cars (especially when modified significantly).
If you'd just like a little boost in performance and a meaner sound, it's hard to argue with the Z-tube, MREV, Cats (or exhaust) combo. It provides just that without the cost or anxiety of going FI. Pretty much a mild/moderate build, but if that's all you're after, then that's all that is needed.
Bodykits, wheels/tires, etc, should be grouped into a part of your build seperate from your performance plans. The only exception, IMO, is if you're talking about a specific bumper or hood needed to clear your FI application. We'll assume that you'll make the car look the way you want, regardless if it's N/A or FI. If you're going to go FI, you probably have the means to take care of the cosmetics as well.

If you simply have a budget of say, $10K, and want to get the most done for the money, you're still back to the original need to determine your goal with the car.
Obviously, if big power is your sole priority (which seems to be the motivating factor for most first builds), then FI is the key. There are some wonderful things to be said for a fairly stock-looking G that's laying down 450+HP. Honestly, if I was in a colder climate, I wouldn't have had such an aversion to going FI with the G. But a previous modified turbo project ('97 Mitsu. GSX) made me aware of just how harsh this part of Texas is on turbocharged cars (especially when modified significantly).
Last edited by GT-Ron; Aug 15, 2006 at 12:28 PM.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
This is some great info, guys... and a great discussion of FI vs. NA power in the G35.
At this point, I've definitely decided against FI for several reasons...
* Cost - The three mods I want (Stillen, Z Tube, MD) will cost significantly less than a TT/SC kit, especially factoring in installation, cooling mods, and dyno tuning.
* Installation - I like installing things myself, but I know that a FI project is way over my head. I can, however, install a few bolt-ons with relatively ease while still learning a little about my new g35.
* Reliability/Warranty - I know that many dealerships give you a hard time if something goes wrong and you have a FI setup. And since I only have 24K miles on my baby
, I want to keep the factory warranty intact.
That being said, I do really appreciate the advice... differing opinions is what a forum is all about, right? If and when I do decide to go FI, though, I know where to turn!
At this point, I've definitely decided against FI for several reasons...
* Cost - The three mods I want (Stillen, Z Tube, MD) will cost significantly less than a TT/SC kit, especially factoring in installation, cooling mods, and dyno tuning.
* Installation - I like installing things myself, but I know that a FI project is way over my head. I can, however, install a few bolt-ons with relatively ease while still learning a little about my new g35.
* Reliability/Warranty - I know that many dealerships give you a hard time if something goes wrong and you have a FI setup. And since I only have 24K miles on my baby
, I want to keep the factory warranty intact.That being said, I do really appreciate the advice... differing opinions is what a forum is all about, right? If and when I do decide to go FI, though, I know where to turn!
Originally Posted by crypten
Honestly, with all the money you will dump into bolt-on's and what not, you will have come close to adding up to the cost of a TT kit.
sooooo true..........if you listen now, you will be thanking us in about a year
Lots of good info and people at this site, that's for certain.
Since it's clear that extreme power production isn't motivating you completely, I think you'll be more than satisfied (for a while, at least) with the mods you've listed. Toss some sway bars on as well and you'll feel an overall increase in ability and enjoyment that suits the car nicely.
In addition to my practical build plan, I usually dream about long-term options that are neither practical nor affordable for me at the current time (my dream build). With the G, that's some headwork, internals, engine-management, etc. I'd love a screaming NA VQ... ...that's also equiped to handle nitrous when big power was really needed.
Since it's clear that extreme power production isn't motivating you completely, I think you'll be more than satisfied (for a while, at least) with the mods you've listed. Toss some sway bars on as well and you'll feel an overall increase in ability and enjoyment that suits the car nicely.
In addition to my practical build plan, I usually dream about long-term options that are neither practical nor affordable for me at the current time (my dream build). With the G, that's some headwork, internals, engine-management, etc. I'd love a screaming NA VQ... ...that's also equiped to handle nitrous when big power was really needed.
Last edited by GT-Ron; Aug 15, 2006 at 02:25 PM.
For myself I truly find more satisfaction into laying the power down than how much power I have.
You can go FI without anything else being done but how safe will you feel putting that power down when a turn comes up in front of you.
I haven't done much to my car as far as power mods(Mrev, Stillen Cai, Ztube, HKS Exhaust) because I know the limitations.
I'm the kind of person that likes to be able to control the present power until I feel comfortable laying the power down in any given situation.
I feel the big gain with the G is what it was made for mainly course and autocross not 1/4 miles.
The biggest difference i felt on this car was suspension wise.
Stiffer Sway bars, lower center of gravity, fatter tires putting a bigger patch on the road have all attributed the car to a better performer all around not just straight.
You can go FI without anything else being done but how safe will you feel putting that power down when a turn comes up in front of you.
I haven't done much to my car as far as power mods(Mrev, Stillen Cai, Ztube, HKS Exhaust) because I know the limitations.
I'm the kind of person that likes to be able to control the present power until I feel comfortable laying the power down in any given situation.
I feel the big gain with the G is what it was made for mainly course and autocross not 1/4 miles.
The biggest difference i felt on this car was suspension wise.
Stiffer Sway bars, lower center of gravity, fatter tires putting a bigger patch on the road have all attributed the car to a better performer all around not just straight.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
A couple more quick questions...
* What are the advantages of a UTR CF tube over the OEM Z tube? (Besides the looks, of course)
* Since I live in the northeast, is it recommended that I get the copper spacer? Or should I just get the normal one?
And as always, PM me if you have any of the parts for sale!
* What are the advantages of a UTR CF tube over the OEM Z tube? (Besides the looks, of course)
* Since I live in the northeast, is it recommended that I get the copper spacer? Or should I just get the normal one?
And as always, PM me if you have any of the parts for sale!
Originally Posted by rockd
A couple more quick questions...
* What are the advantages of a UTR CF tube over the OEM Z tube? (Besides the looks, of course)
* Since I live in the northeast, is it recommended that I get the copper spacer? Or should I just get the normal one?
And as always, PM me if you have any of the parts for sale!
* What are the advantages of a UTR CF tube over the OEM Z tube? (Besides the looks, of course)
* Since I live in the northeast, is it recommended that I get the copper spacer? Or should I just get the normal one?
And as always, PM me if you have any of the parts for sale!
I remember there being issues with quality saying that the CF one was very rough on the inside and not very straight.
I don't know if those issues have been addressed but I do remember comments and pics pertain to those issues.
Do you mean the copper throttle body heater from motordyne?
I live in NJ I don't know how much much colder it gets up there but I have the Mrev and the coolant control valve on my car.
I switch it off during the summer and then put it back to normal flow during the winter.
It's all up to you but I would let others that have it comment on that item.
I have installed a few and haven't heard no complaints.
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