I know i should use at least 4 gage wire but does any have the excect leangth for a 12 wire set up and what else would you need to make your own

 

i would like to know this also...

 

what about the pricing on the wires you are getting is it cheaper than just getting the groundin kit?

 

you dont NEED 4 gauge. im not sure of a total lenght that you'd need. other than wire, you would need at least 24 ring terminals, ( a few extra never hurt), about 2 feet worth of heat shrink (color or your choice) a good set of wire crimpers/cutters/strippers. this doesnt have to be a all-in-one tool. infact, it'd be better if they werent. nippers that have a crimping prong usually give the best crimp. (make sure you get your crimps good and tight)
as far as wire.. id imagine 20-25 feet would do, but im not sure. just use some string and layout an estimate, and buy 10% more than the number that you come up with.

 

Most kits are not cheap, but like Gordees...he uses quality insulation and commercial quality crimps on all his terminations.
This is not to say you could not duplicate these systems also using quality components and fabrication, or take the cheap way out with typical home tools. You can't sacrifice on the insulation though, because of the heat and other elements under the hood. Anything is only as good as it's weakest link.
If you have the time to do it, good luck with it.

 

in this case, insulation is insulation. all insulated wire is good for a certain temp. by nature of electrical resistance, it causes heat, therefore some wire will be rated for 75 deg. C , 90 deg C and so on. from a electrical standpoint, in a grounding application it (theoretically) wouldn't even matter if a chunk of insulation was missing. its just a ground. you could run bare copper if you wanted to.
Im not saying that using a 'good' wire is a waste of money (obviously you want it to look nice) but wire is wire. 8 ga. is good for so many amps just as 4 ga. is rated for so many amps, and so on.

i guess in short, use whatever wire meets your needs. i guess 2 things to keep in mind are flexibility and appearance.

 

Here are 3 versions of instructions on building your own groundwires.
I found these on the net somewhere, so don't ask me any questions, and I provide no guarentees. This might get you started with a 5-wire setup, I don't think it goes much beyond that.

ground1.zip
ground2.zip
ground3.zip

Oops...no zip attachments over 100k each. OK, np, here they are on my website:

http://24.241.48.117/g35/ground/

good luck.

 

The purpose of the grounding kit it to make sure you have a zero resistance path from all your sensors and ECU to ground. Most of these devices operate in very low voltage and low amperes. The thickness of wire needed is determined by the amperage, which in this case is small (#8 wire will propably cary 30-40 amps), but the important thing is that you have "0" resistance. In order to accomplish this, you must make sure all connections are clean, free of paint and use electrical contact grease such as No-Ox to prevent future corrosion of the electrical connections. A quality crimping tool should be used to attach the wire to the terminals. If you don't have a good crimper or have no experience in crimping cables, I suggest that you use solder type terminals to ensure good connection without resistance. I hope it works out for you.

 

thanks

 

Dont even waste ur time putting in a grounding kit... I have the hyper grounding kit on my car (paid like $100 for wires) and i didnt notice ANYTHING... Plus i uses a volt meter to see if there was any resistance, and it was the same... Before and after... The car is grounded pretty well already... (REmember these cars where designed by engineers)
Now i tell people they're my NOS lines because the cables are red; and i got one idiot to believe me...
i have a 6mt... People say they notice something in auto ... But i couldnt tell in my car....
Thats my experience...

 

i built my own, ordered 20 or 25 ft, (can't remember) and i have about 4 ft left. i have 11 wires. thats 22 terminals. i did feel a difference, slightly lower idle, and shift up and down faster. and looks good too....

 

In the Gordgee Grounding Gear Kit they use the Copper Head Terminals..... I made my on ground kit using the copper head terminals that u can get from the welding supply store.... In stead of clamping the copper terminals i heat up the terminals with a torch and use soldier so they terminals will stay on the terminals better than clamping it...

 

if you crimp it correctly, its not going to budge. to each thier own i s'pose.

 

So how u saying crimp is correctly then soldier it.... If u use the audio 4 gauge gold terminals yea crimp it but with the copper terminals it is hard to crimp it unless u have the right big crimper for it.... Soldier to me is better then crimp but everybody have to different opinion..... I'm a professional audio installer and when you connect two wire or do an alarm system or anythings the correct way is to soldier it.........

 

I would really like a copy of the instructions for a 10 wire kit.