Non forced induction performance mods
#1
Non forced induction performance mods
Hi all,
I was doing some research about forced induction and I pretty soon got a reality call when I started getting quotes to mod my 2006 Coupe. So now I am willing to dig in to the normally aspirated mods. I just wanted to know which will be good mods for my car and what kind of hp gain am I looking at? Please list the mods with an aproximate installed price and an approximate hp gain.
Is 50 hp gain on a na car a realistic goal? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The quotes I got were for an APS twin turbo kit for about 10k and a Greddy turbo kit for about 7k + another 1500k for the intercooler. I thought these mods were a bit expensive and I may consider them again in the future, but not right now. I am also NOT considering NO2.
Thanks all for the advice!
I was doing some research about forced induction and I pretty soon got a reality call when I started getting quotes to mod my 2006 Coupe. So now I am willing to dig in to the normally aspirated mods. I just wanted to know which will be good mods for my car and what kind of hp gain am I looking at? Please list the mods with an aproximate installed price and an approximate hp gain.
Is 50 hp gain on a na car a realistic goal? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The quotes I got were for an APS twin turbo kit for about 10k and a Greddy turbo kit for about 7k + another 1500k for the intercooler. I thought these mods were a bit expensive and I may consider them again in the future, but not right now. I am also NOT considering NO2.
Thanks all for the advice!
#2
im gonna help you out here and beat everyone who will tell you to "search" and get upset at you lol. cause i too was very interested in N/A mods when i first got my G. I cant tell you install prices as i do all my own work and hp gains i can only guess at and im sure someone will quote me and make fun of me.. so here
intake prob 5hp
underdrive pullies maybe 5hp
plenum and spacer i assume around 10hp
high flow cat or test pipe 5-10hp
cat back exhaust average around 10hp
through research i have found that headers dont really help much or w/e i dont know.
trying to get 50 extra N/A hp is asking for much but u can get close..
if u want acceleration performance and plan on dragging the car, i highly recommend the 3.9 final drive gears..almost half a second in the 1/4 difference. throw some drag radials on the car and ure looking at a mid 13 sec car(assuming u can drive).. hope that helped!! all this should be half the price of F/I.. id hope lol
intake prob 5hp
underdrive pullies maybe 5hp
plenum and spacer i assume around 10hp
high flow cat or test pipe 5-10hp
cat back exhaust average around 10hp
through research i have found that headers dont really help much or w/e i dont know.
trying to get 50 extra N/A hp is asking for much but u can get close..
if u want acceleration performance and plan on dragging the car, i highly recommend the 3.9 final drive gears..almost half a second in the 1/4 difference. throw some drag radials on the car and ure looking at a mid 13 sec car(assuming u can drive).. hope that helped!! all this should be half the price of F/I.. id hope lol
#3
It all depends on the car and what YOU want to do with it. Some parts will add more than other but sound and look like butthole. So just depends you have lots of options. I think with all basic bolt ons your going to be looking at around a 20WHP difference. I think a stock G on the dyno does around 240 WHP (not positive). CAI, cat back exhaust, test pipes or high flow cats, and headers should set you at around 265 WHP if you get a dyno.
Once you have your basic bolt ons i would recommend some kind of ECU reflash or piggy back system to make sure your car isnt running lean or rich and also to make sure you are getting full potential of your mods. The stock ECU that is in our car is pretty advanced little computer. It seems to have a mind of its own at times so a nice old override is always a plus.
hope this helps
sean
Once you have your basic bolt ons i would recommend some kind of ECU reflash or piggy back system to make sure your car isnt running lean or rich and also to make sure you are getting full potential of your mods. The stock ECU that is in our car is pretty advanced little computer. It seems to have a mind of its own at times so a nice old override is always a plus.
hope this helps
sean
#5
Originally Posted by logik05se
if you really want to go n/a...dont they have some really good internals for this car such as high compression pistons, rods, cams, etc?
#6
Originally Posted by logik05se
if you really want to go n/a...dont they have some really good internals for this car such as high compression pistons, rods, cams, etc?
#7
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#8
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Originally Posted by aHero4Eternity
intakes wont get your 5hp..lol
some will agree but most (including me) will disagree and say that intakes are sound mods only. our stock intake is already very efficient.
and you cant get a plenum and a spacer. its one or the other. unless youre talking about the lower collector (mrev)
some will agree but most (including me) will disagree and say that intakes are sound mods only. our stock intake is already very efficient.
and you cant get a plenum and a spacer. its one or the other. unless youre talking about the lower collector (mrev)
#11
Hey all -
NA builds are NOT a waste of money. It just depends on what your looking for. Trust me when I say that 50HP is not going to make you happy...BEEN THERE..DONE THAT, then went even further NA, and I went ultimate.
I just went FI and added about 80HP over the NA mods I had, and am sitting at 450+WHP.
If you want to do it safe, and not have to go into the motor for build-up reliability, go for the Vortech SC. If you want more power than it gives, which is about 340WHP on average for a rev-up - then put in the 3.12 pulley and get yourself close to 400WHP with a good SS and FMU tune.
The kits cost under $5K on average and install is between $1K and $1.5K - depends on the shop. You'll want to add an oil pan spacer and 1/2" plenum spacer as well for your MT.
For even more 1/4 mile help, add the gears. I love my 3.92's and would and should be the first mod for anyone, in my opinion, but for an MT, if your not tracking the car much, I wouldn't spend the $1800+ for that mod.
If you go bolt-on happy with the gears - then your just about at the cost of going for an SC anyways, at much less WHP for the money.
Rick
NA builds are NOT a waste of money. It just depends on what your looking for. Trust me when I say that 50HP is not going to make you happy...BEEN THERE..DONE THAT, then went even further NA, and I went ultimate.
I just went FI and added about 80HP over the NA mods I had, and am sitting at 450+WHP.
If you want to do it safe, and not have to go into the motor for build-up reliability, go for the Vortech SC. If you want more power than it gives, which is about 340WHP on average for a rev-up - then put in the 3.12 pulley and get yourself close to 400WHP with a good SS and FMU tune.
The kits cost under $5K on average and install is between $1K and $1.5K - depends on the shop. You'll want to add an oil pan spacer and 1/2" plenum spacer as well for your MT.
For even more 1/4 mile help, add the gears. I love my 3.92's and would and should be the first mod for anyone, in my opinion, but for an MT, if your not tracking the car much, I wouldn't spend the $1800+ for that mod.
If you go bolt-on happy with the gears - then your just about at the cost of going for an SC anyways, at much less WHP for the money.
Rick
#13
Originally Posted by shdowflare
Hey Rick,
Thanks for the great advice. So are you saying it's safe to skip all the NA mods and go right for the S/C? Isn't it safer/smarter to bolt-on the intake/plenum/exhaust mods so FI will work better?
Thanks
Brian
Thanks for the great advice. So are you saying it's safe to skip all the NA mods and go right for the S/C? Isn't it safer/smarter to bolt-on the intake/plenum/exhaust mods so FI will work better?
Thanks
Brian
1st - with an SC, you don't use an intake as it takes it's place to begin with - so all you have is the spacer to do.
2nd - you SHOULD do at least a catback - better flow makes the power happen. Do headers and CATS or TP's too - just remember when you do lots of breathing mods, your boost will be lower, but the power will still be there. Technically, it's a safer way to be - all the power with lower boost.
3rd - The SC is pretty safe no matter what you do. Just don't go smaller than the 3.12 pulley without some bottom end engine building. Get the SS and FMU tuned properly, so your maxing your HP and being safe at the same time.
Rick