300rwhp N/A???? is it possible?
#31
#32
#33
Red Card Crew
iTrader: (24)
Assuming you have the 298 hp rev up, you will need approximately 50-60 flywheel more hp. I'm not sure if that's possible with just bolt ons and ecu tune.
IMHO, it would take at least reworked heads and cams. Possibly a new shortblock featuring forged pistons (for strength) and higher compression. A up in displacement would also net you decent gains in power.
IMHO, it would take at least reworked heads and cams. Possibly a new shortblock featuring forged pistons (for strength) and higher compression. A up in displacement would also net you decent gains in power.
#34
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Klumzyee
theres a 4.2 or 4.3L 12:1 compression stroker kit for the VQ. with the right fuel, cam specs & valve train, runner lengths you maybe able to get +300whp outta that but it probably wont be streetable anymore
#35
#36
im aiming at 300whp too, but on an auto... once i hit that mark... i'll frame my dyno sheet in my room and then go FI lol. But yea theres A LOT of work involved with getting 300whp NA... u can have the dealer do it now for something like 12k but u'll have 325whp NA all warrantied. but if i had the cash i would do this
Nismo Cams - $1200
Springs Valves - DONT KNOW A PRICE
HKS Exhaust - $1400
Kinetix V+ Plenum - $300
MREV2 - $400
Pullies - $300
Kinetix HFC's - $300
Intake - $250
Headers - $700
Technosqaure Retune - $600
HKS Twin Power Ignition - $300?
Grounding Kit - $100
with tax, install and a few extra bucks here and there ur still looking at about $5k but with all that and being properly tunned in sure u can make over 300whp, but if its just HP #'s ur interested in then go FI... Vortec chargers are very nice. Also u have a 6mt so remember tranny mods will give u better times.
Nismo Cams - $1200
Springs Valves - DONT KNOW A PRICE
HKS Exhaust - $1400
Kinetix V+ Plenum - $300
MREV2 - $400
Pullies - $300
Kinetix HFC's - $300
Intake - $250
Headers - $700
Technosqaure Retune - $600
HKS Twin Power Ignition - $300?
Grounding Kit - $100
with tax, install and a few extra bucks here and there ur still looking at about $5k but with all that and being properly tunned in sure u can make over 300whp, but if its just HP #'s ur interested in then go FI... Vortec chargers are very nice. Also u have a 6mt so remember tranny mods will give u better times.
#37
zeroscythe that will probably get you around 280whp or so and you cant use a Kinetix V+Plenum with MREV2 also bolt ons wont do it unless you do your research..
depends on your tune.. theres guys that run engines that goes up to 9k and pushes out +350whp but on race gas only but they ahve a seperate map that limits the engine to 5-6k on 91 octane.. our motors now are 10.5:1 compression (if i remember correctly)
If you get the right length/width/type headers, and right lenght of intake runners paired with the plenum all matched to the right cams (power curve).. then add some valve train (harder springs and shims) you might be able to hit 300whp with a real good tune on 91 octane..
Originally Posted by k_hojnacki
Very good point. What would be the "maximum" compression be to run on a built engine for street/everyday driving on 92-93 octane?
If you get the right length/width/type headers, and right lenght of intake runners paired with the plenum all matched to the right cams (power curve).. then add some valve train (harder springs and shims) you might be able to hit 300whp with a real good tune on 91 octane..
#38
Originally Posted by Klumzyee
zeroscythe that will probably get you around 280whp or so and you cant use a Kinetix V+Plenum with MREV2 also bolt ons wont do it unless you do your research..
all the MREV2 is, its a modified 280 lower collector and its modified enough that it results in a noticable power gain...
when i conversed with tony from motordyne they told me they hadnt tested the MREV2 with after-market upper plenums yet, but that the test results with the MREV2 and the 1/2 iso thermal spacer were impressive.
#39
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Klumzyee
zeroscythe that will probably get you around 280whp or so and you cant use a Kinetix V+Plenum with MREV2 also bolt ons wont do it unless you do your research..
depends on your tune.. theres guys that run engines that goes up to 9k and pushes out +350whp but on race gas only but they ahve a seperate map that limits the engine to 5-6k on 91 octane.. our motors now are 10.5:1 compression (if i remember correctly)
If you get the right length/width/type headers, and right lenght of intake runners paired with the plenum all matched to the right cams (power curve).. then add some valve train (harder springs and shims) you might be able to hit 300whp with a real good tune on 91 octane..
depends on your tune.. theres guys that run engines that goes up to 9k and pushes out +350whp but on race gas only but they ahve a seperate map that limits the engine to 5-6k on 91 octane.. our motors now are 10.5:1 compression (if i remember correctly)
If you get the right length/width/type headers, and right lenght of intake runners paired with the plenum all matched to the right cams (power curve).. then add some valve train (harder springs and shims) you might be able to hit 300whp with a real good tune on 91 octane..
#40
Red Card Crew
iTrader: (24)
yes and no. You can certainly build an tough na engine. But in order to get high hp out of a na engine, you have to go higher compression. Unfortunately, higher compression is bad for turbo engines. If you want a engine that will
you will need to get the shortblock done w/ different pistons.
handle any turbo kit I can throw AT it
Originally Posted by k_hojnacki
Interesting. My intent has been to build the engine with a stroker kit and stay NA for reliability. Also somewhere in the future, if I do decide to go FI then my engine will be built and ready to handle any turbo kit I can throw AT it. I guess it really depends on how quickly you want to achieve your goals.
#41
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So let's say you want to shoot for 280 HP instead. How much less would that cost? I get the impression from my research on this board that gaining the first 20 or so horses isn't that bad, but every 10 beyond that gets progressively more expensive. True, false, neither, both?
Not trying to hijack the thread, it just seems like we've established the answer for the 300 target - just wondering if there's a more "happy medium" target that's a better balance of money/performance while staying NA.
Not trying to hijack the thread, it just seems like we've established the answer for the 300 target - just wondering if there's a more "happy medium" target that's a better balance of money/performance while staying NA.
#43
Florida G35 Club
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So Calif / Utah
Posts: 1,457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A rev-up engine with the right cam timing setup can make some big power in the stock engine. The stock cams are good, but the overlap and timing is setup for smog. Will need more ignition timing, and get the VQ to run on 13.2-13.3 AF across the power band. IM not sure with the currant setups or map systems your going to see a flat fuel curve. The bore is fine in this engine, but the stroke is what is killing the power.
Your never going to get this engine to bang out big numbers tell you get more stroke and flow thru the heads. IM sure there are a few guys out there with over 300 HP N/A.
Lots to say about the currant cam timing being the bottle neck in this engine.
Would need to advance the intake and retard the exhaust valves to get the stock cams to breath, Move the center lines apart on the camshafts. It does move the power band up with a wider torque curve.
Your never going to get this engine to bang out big numbers tell you get more stroke and flow thru the heads. IM sure there are a few guys out there with over 300 HP N/A.
Lots to say about the currant cam timing being the bottle neck in this engine.
Would need to advance the intake and retard the exhaust valves to get the stock cams to breath, Move the center lines apart on the camshafts. It does move the power band up with a wider torque curve.
Last edited by GEE PASTA; 11-03-2006 at 07:21 PM.
#44
Originally Posted by extreme4377
300WHP NA is my goal. Ive got plans in the future to get a chip and headers whenever FI releases their headers. After that, new cams. Thats about $3600 with parts and labor, with those parts in addition to my current ones, I should hit 300
Good luck on hitting 300WHP with just that Oh, also good luck on $3600 with parts and labor. Cams can cost you 1000-1200 just for labor and about the same price for parts (for 15 whp gain ). You will not be the first to install Cams, Headers, EMS w/ Tune, Exhaust, Spacer... ) And the only person that I know here that used to have over 300whp NA beast is ISMSOLUTIONS. Trust me he does have much much more than that to actually break the 300whp club. Hint: Ask ISMSOLUTIONS on what mod he did on his bottom end, I think he actually have a totally different short block on his NA beast. I doubt he will tell us coz a lot of people already did.
Originally Posted by NaztyG
Ok well if my goal is to get as close to 12's as humanly possible N/A and keep the budget under say $3-4k.. am i dreaming? (assuming a good run)
If it is that easy then everyone would have 300whp car... Name me at least 3 people here that has over 300whp NA beast?
Last edited by FI'ed G; 11-03-2006 at 05:25 PM.
#45
Originally Posted by j-velocity
I am wondering the same as well.
With a TD exhaust (15whp), headers (10WHP), test pipes (10WHP), MREV2 + spacer (15+WHP) and some electronic mod wouldn't that brings a 240WHP 6MT close to 300WHP??
With a TD exhaust (15whp), headers (10WHP), test pipes (10WHP), MREV2 + spacer (15+WHP) and some electronic mod wouldn't that brings a 240WHP 6MT close to 300WHP??