Guys, my Dealership is putting in a NEW TRANNY!!!!!!!!!

They will have the new Trans (6MT) in between 2 and 5 days and told me that they want to look over the clutch while they have her apart.

MY QUESTION(S) IN NEED OF QUICK ANSWERS/OPINONIONS:

Is this a good time to:

1.) Upgrade my clutch/Flywheel, whatever other parts I could upgrade?? If the answer to this question is YES, then WHAT do I get, and WHERE can I get it.

NISMO Brand, Other Brand, WHAT??? What is the opinions out there about this. I can search and will search, but I wanted to jump the gun on this and get replies quick enough to make purchases in time...maybe I won't have enough time though? Who knows....

2.) Have them do anything else that I can not think of while they are in there putting stuff back together??? In other words, OIL/LUBE, replace this part b/c
it wears down easy and is cheap to replace and will make a big difference???????


I posted a topic about my Tranny issue going into 2nd gear w/ a CLUNK! noise and sometimes not being able to even
shift into first or second @ all: [https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138252]


Please guys, I need EVERYONE's help w/ this!

You all have always been great to me and I appreciate the fact that I can even ask this question and get help
in any way/shape/form, so my THANKS in advance guys!

Thanks Guys!
-WoW

 

I think by putting in an aftermarket clutch/flywheel would void your warranty. If you do get a new clutch make sure they put in a new throw out bearing (I'm sure they would do this anyway).

 

Wrong on the warranty. I had my flywheel swapped when I got my tranny replaced to a 14 lb JWT. With any after market part, they have to prove that the part actually caused damaged. So, blaming the flywheel on future synchro problems won't work.

Part of the warranty work includes a new clutch and flywheel. I did get a new clutch too. Unless you're planning future FI, the stock clutch/flywheel is suitable. The 14lb flywheel does add performance and the engine revs faster, but you have to deal with chatter. Try to listen to someone with the 14 lb flywheel upgrade to see if you can deal with it.

 

for the most part if the dealer installs any mods it wont "void" the warranty. The warranty question is one that has puzzled all, but something like a better clutch and flywheel could never be detrimental to the Tranny. If the dealer is doing all of this for you, it is the ideal time to replace both the clutch and he flywheel because it would cost you around a grand for labor to do it any other time. There are plenty decent parts on the market, so good luck in your decisions.

 

here we go again...aftermarket clutch/flywheel will not void your warranty. second if they kindly put in the parts for free while working on the transmission tip your service guy, he doesnt get paid but at most 3 hours of labor from infiniti to do the 6 hour job.

 

Ok, great feedback guys, Thanks!

Keep em' coming for those who have not seen this post yet.

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*Update
I talked to my dealer "guy" again. He basically told me what you guys were telling me that AFTERMARKET or OEM, it's a great time to replace those parts.

My problem is finding out how much the OEM clutch/flywheel are going to cost me.

I truly would rather have him tell me that everything looks great.

I KNOW that it would be best to replace the parts anyways b/c of the cut on LABOR FEES. What to do, What to do???

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I'll pose this new question:

IF YOU WERE IN MY SHOES, WOULD YOU PAY THE $$$ FOR A REPLACEMENT OF THE CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL *EVEN* IF THE SERVICE GUYS TELL ME IT HAS GOOD LIFE STILL LEFT?

Thanks Guys!
-WoW

 

Of course I would keep it. If it is still in good shape and still has good life on it, there is no use in replacing it unless you are planning to go FI.

 

I'd still replace it.

nothing like having a dealer tech replace the tranny / clutch then some fly by night place that screws it up.

I've been hearing shorter then what i expect for the G clutches. id like 90k , I'd expect 60k but 20-40k isnt working for me. I'd wager a better quality clutch & pressure plate will last longer, anybody wanna chime in ? besides you already have a good amount of miles on the existing one.

ppp

 

I would do it it is money out of you pocket now but it is a lot less as if you plan on doing it in the future

 

if it ain't broke, why fix or replace it?

 

The stock clutch is actually pretty damn durable. I wish I knew how to post a picture up, I'd put up what mine looked like after 55k. Wear lines are still all visible on the friction material. Only thing thats a lil weird is its developed almost like white spots on it, which makes me think when my tranny was replaced (at 16k) they might have gotten some oil/lube on the surface of the clutch. As far as aftermarkets go, I've had 3 setups now.

Stock
Tilton
JWT

The tilton was way too annoying to daily drive. The clutch pedal required the weight of a small elephant to engage and the catch was very very very very neutral in feeling, you either got it perfect, or not, every shift. After awhile I grew tired of this (about 15k miles) and took it out and sold it.

The JWT (I've had it for approx 2k miles now) feels VERY nice. It has about half the resistance of the stock clutches throw and catches way lower to the floor (which took some getting used to, I love high clutches). The rattle (I have heads/cams/headers/no cats/injen ses) is not even noticeable except for briefly after engaging first gear. The car pretty much drowns out most of the chatter. It catches MUCH better for wot driving than stock, but IMO the tilton was a much better setup for this, it just sucked royal *** to drive in town. Over all I'm really happy with my JWT now. Its light on the leg for long drives, even more so than the stock. Its great for spirited driving and catches very well. As far as the performance side of the motor revving up faster, yeah it does, but its all relative to what gear your in. First and Second feel like they rev much more freely now, where as there really is no difference in 4th 5th and 6th. 3rd is kinda like sittin the fence, doesnt really feel faster. However, coming out of the 8lb tilton setup, I do miss how much better the car revved like that.

If theyre gonna have your trans out for replacement anyway, you might as well just have them put a JWT unit (fly/clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing) in as theyre much more knowledgable than any random mechanic (not like our clutch is difficult to change though) but they will have all the parts that they need (my small parts kit for my JWT was a little lacking, had to go to Infiniti for a few things) in house which will save you some time out of a car. They cant technically void your warranty if they agree to put the parts in, unless they tell you first that it will void your warranty. The dealership will be the people to ask on this, as warranty's are not exactly as clean cut as people make them out to be, there is a "grey area" in them. However, if, by chance, you have any trouble with your crankshaft, your up ****s creek. They will without a doubt blame it on the lightened flywheel.

Hope that helps.

 

I believe part of replacing the tranny involves replacing the oem clutch and flywheel. You will get a new clutch/flywheel regardless of your decision. As I said, the stock setup is fine for NA purposes.

 

If you're hard on the car, or drag race regularly, the stock clutch won't last that long. My OEM clutch started slipping at 25k miles. That was with over 100 passes down the drag strip and plenty of WOT shifts. And it wasn't slipping all the time; just on hard shifts high in the rpm band. It was still fine for daily driving.

If you don't punish your car that badly, then go OEM all the way. If you're worried about the longevity of the clutch, I recommend getting a clutchmasters stage1 or JWT, but stick with the OE flywheel.

 

EX-250,

Fantastic reviews and tons of info. Thanks!!!

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Ok, so I'm basically getting a nice "MIX" of suggestions and reviews, which are all welcome!

Since it's more or less a 50/50 split w/ "Replace now, save money now vs. If it's got life, let it live!" and ontop of that a 50/50 split on if replacing what to go with..."Stay OEM vs. Go Aftermarket"

I'm going to go with KEEP THE PARTS IF THEY STILL HAVE GOOD LIFE IN THEM, and if they do not, I'll go OEM.

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Thanks Guys!
-WoW

 

*NEW QUESTION*

If it's a NEW tranny, does that equate to needing a "BREAK IN PERIOD" ?

.02's on this?

Thanks Guys!
-WoW