Hey man, just wanted to give you my two cents. I would either suspect your ring and pinion or wheel bearings. Have you checked if there is fluid in the gear box? When you hit whatever it was, is it possible all of fluid leaked out? Did they replace the wheel bearings when then changed the suspension components on the hub assembly?

 

Well they replaced the wheel bearing and knuckle. At the accident scene, now that you remind me, there was oil on the floor, not crazy amounts but some, but when the car arrived at the shop, I mentioned it to him, but he said he saw nothing and that the oil pan was good and everything intact. Might of came out of the differential?

 

Would you love it more if you got banned instead? Quit egging the guy on

 

Haha way too true.

He started it =( I'll be the bigger man

 

Y'know I was thinking on this as well. My ZR-1 began to show resistance when it hit 95k miles. I didn't do anything to it until my 3rd gear syncro went bad, so I had the transmission serviced (and replaced). The feeling of resistance went away.

Before that I replaced the clutch and dualmass flywheel (expensive! ouch) and that didn't help at all. Replacing the tranny fixed the "resistance"

When you went over the median, you didn't smack the tranny on something? That's what I did to my Corvette to begin its issues-- I ran over a fence that fell off a truck and it messed up my undercarriage.

Thing is I'm not sure what else they may have replaced when they replaced the tranny so I'm not much help here.. To me, it would seem like it's the diff like the other posted have mentioned. Thing is you said they tested it with the car on the lift but what bothers me is that the wheels can spin much more freely on a lift then on the pavement. How come none of the mechanics are taking the car for a ride on pavement and getting a feel for the issue?

 

Don't you have any kind of warranty from the first shop you brought the car to, how are they owning up to their work?...If at the end you simply can't fix your problem, you can always trade it in

 

It wouldn't hurt to check it. If the fluid in your differential is low or empty, it will cause drag on the pinion gear. This will definitly cause long term damage to both gears as well as the other components in the gear box. If there was fluid on the ground which appeared to be an oil like substance, then I would check it. Does the power loss happen the first time you take off and continue, or does it gradually get worse as you are driving around.

Next time you get in your car, after it has ample time to cool(overnight or whatever), get on it a little when you first get in, and see if the power loss is still there, if it isn't, note if it starts happening as your drive around. If this is the case, then, it might be that there isn't enough gear fluid in the gear box, and the pinion is getting to hot, and expanding enough to start grabbing on the pinion bearing, ie, causing your power loss.

 

The power loss/drag/restriction is on during the entire the day, hot or cold.

Im going to take it to a transmission/drivetrain shop and see if they can measure the amount of oil in my diff.

I thank and appreciate you guys for your insights on my problem.

 

Thats hardly why you got banned, welcome back BTW, lets see how long it lasts this time

 

the oil level should come up to the fill hole, just take off that bolt and stick your finger inside and see if you feel oil

 

Alright thanks, I will be doing that tonight.

 

Just as another thought, you didn't hit the brake caliper. Sounds like either diff, trans, or maybe brake drag.... either way good luck, and let us know.

 

Cant be a brake drag, because the car doesnt decelerate abnormally.

 

You said, after getting the work done that "We put on a used 05 19" OEM wheel..." Did that include a (different) tire? A tire you don't know/don't know the history of? Could the hum be simply a cupped tire? I have cupped rear tires (the result of waiting too long for an alignment) and they hum (and warble) something awful above 45mph.

 

My guess is the hum is caused by the tire/wheel you put on. The tire might have ply seperation or it might be feathered or scalloped (feel the inside tread block for this, if it's not smooth and flat, then that's your problem), or it might be worn. Worn tires get really loud and roar. So do feathered tires. What about your other rear tire/wheel? You sure it wasn't damaged when it hopped the curb? If is quite possible that the rim is slightly bent or the tire damaged a ply.

As for the power problem, I don't think it have anything to do with either the differential or tranny. I can't see how either would get damaged from an inbalanced driveshaft. It doesn't make much sense at all. My guess is the MAF sensor and the culprit was probably that CAI. Historically, Nissan VQ MAFs don't like aftermarket intake, especially CAIs. I don't know if it has something to do with the oil-coated filters or the enlongated intake piping. Regardless, VQ MAFs don't like the things. My friend has a 01 Maxima 5MT with a JWT intake. Recently his car developed a problem much like you're describing. The car has absolutely no *****, especially above 4000rpms. You mash the gas and the rpms slowly climb where as they should fly once the intake secondaries kick open (~4500rpms). I hooked up the car to my laptop and everything looks fine and I cleaned the MAF, but the issue still persists. It turns out that this a common problem with 00+ VQ Maximas that have intakes and the problem is in the MAF (which is the same exact design as the G's MAF and only one part number off). The fix is replace the MAF. I would recommend finding a friend with a RevUp, swapping the MAFs, reseting the ECU, and see if the problem goes away.

If that doesn't work, you might want to test the coil packs (ohm meter). Those could also cause problems and wouldn't necessarily throw a code.