When traveling at higher than recommended speeds and coming into a turn, I'll downshift while hitting the brakes and sometimes the front right (think its the one I'm hearing could be the rear) tire sort of locks up for a sec and chirps. Is this the brake assist kicking in? If so, why is it only on that one wheel?? Any suggestions, help, expertise, donations would help :-)

2003 BLK/BLK 6-spd Injen clear corners

 

Brake assist shouldn't lock up a tire, no matter where it is on the car (front or rear). You are likely getting a rear chirp from mismatched flywheel/driveshaft speeds.

In any case, just heel-toe and your problem will go away.


Black/Willow 03.5 6MT, Premium, Navi, Aero, SAT
350Z Nismo CAI

 

Thats what I was leaning toward more than the brake assist thing. Thanks!

2003 BLK/BLK 6-spd Injen clear corners

 

try to blip the throttle to match the revs before you release the clutch.
go to this site. you might want to look into learning how to heel to toe braking.
http://www.driftsession.com/drift_te...oeshifting.htm

 

Yo,
Good call: rpm-matching, or rev matching, is the solution. I'll suggest no need to get complex at first with heel and toeing, just get to know where the revs should be as dictated by the speed, for the desired downshift. Blip the throttle above that and release the clutch smoothly, emphasis on smoothly (clutch life will be extended, your pocketbook will thank you.) You can still be fast and smooth.
While tire squawks on downshift won't necessarily ruin your day, you upset the car's balance, and in doing so, reduce your line precision. Not saying it will, but that could lead to being in the gravel, or worse.
Brake assist only actuates when you really step on the brakes, as though you were making a panic stop- it then goes to max braking without a high degree of modulation being required on your part. [That's why our brakes, and to an even larger extent, new Mercs, feel a bit grabby at slow speeds.] Not applicable.
Did you perhaps mean EBD- Electronic Brake Distribution- the brakes braking in different percentages while turning to avoid lock-up on the inside wheel? Or VDC- brakes being applied singularly or in combo in concert with reduced power output to point you in the direction you intended? Either way, not really a player in the situation you described.

Cheers,
Derek

DB

 

also rev matching is very important if you want your clutch to last.

Just clutch in, switch gear, clutch out without rev matching will made the clutch speed up or slow down the engine to match the tranny.

Not a good thing for your clutch.

Twlight blue/Willow 6mt.
It's here

 

Well said and additionally, watch the rpm difference between gears when you're upshifting. That difference is what you have to match. I've haven't looked at this on my own car yet but say for example when you shift from 2nd to 3rd, you're at 4000 rpm and when you hit third, your rpm drops down to ... say ...3200 rpm. That 800 rpm difference is what you will have to blip your throttle up to when you downshift from 3rd to 2nd..no matter your actual speed or rpm. If you were at 4800 in 3rd and downshifted to 2nd, you'd need to blip the throttle up to 5600 to effect a smooth shift. Clear as mud?

Doug

2004 6MT, Desert Platinum, Side Molding, Splash Guards, Sat. Radio

Asheville,NC

 

Thanks for all the replies I'm pretty sure its the prob with rpm-matching. I've only done it like 3 times, but its good to know what I'm doing wrong. Looks like I need some fine foot tuning.

2003 BLK/BLK 6-spd Injen clear corners