way to make my G35 faster for cheap
#31
Originally Posted by biggz786786
why are you guys hating on him so much? instead of taking the time to write smart-*** remarks you could have wrote something a little more useful........
get 5/16" plenum spacer, intake, headers, exhaust, 3.9 final drive, mrev2 and a tune
and your good to go!
get 5/16" plenum spacer, intake, headers, exhaust, 3.9 final drive, mrev2 and a tune
and your good to go!
Originally Posted by caltender
oh look what I found
BY USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-upgrades.html
BY USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-upgrades.html
#36
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Am I the only one who sees someone criticizing someone for a lack of posts and wonders why their life is so distorted they criticize someone for not posting hundereds of mostly meaningless messages? (Hint: Maybe he has a life and is too busy to jack around being a smartass on the internet?)
#38
#40
Look for a good exhaust system, intake, performance pulley kit, test pipes, MREV2 manifold (for 05 models and up), and 5/16 spacers. These mods will give you the most gain plus a tune will actually yield the results. Remember to reflash your ecu after your done. There is a thread on here to reset your ECU. Goodluck!
#43
Losing weight in the car is the easiest way to make it slightly faster cheap... mainly because simply removing unnecessary parts costs nothing.
Pull out the spare tire, jack, medical kit, your trunk mat and any plastics inside the trunk that you can't see when the lid is closed. Remove all the extra unnecessary plastics from inside the engine bay(engine cover, etc).
Next time you replace your battery, use a lightweight Dry Cell battery.
How far you want to go with the weight reduction depends on how serious you are about gaining speed and how willing you are to sacrifice luxury in order to get it. You could take it as far as removing the back seat, and all the unnecessary interior parts, including the radio/speakers and even the passengers seat.... but I'm sure you wouldn't want to do that if you street-drive the car.
Also, drive with the gas tank pretty low in weight when you plan on racing.... gas weighs about 6.5 to 6.75 pounds per gallon... so a full tank of gas in our cars weighs about 139 pounds. If you only keep about 3 gallons in the tank when doing a drag race, you'll be about 115 to 120 pounds lighter than you would be with a full tank.
You can also drain your windshield washer fluid reservoir to lose another 8 or 9 pounds.
Hardcore racers also remove their air conditioning systems from the car because they are both heavy, and draw power from the motor because there is an extra pulley to spin. That extra pulley doesn't take away much power when you have the AC/Defogger turned off, because there is a clutch in the system to disengage the pulley from spinning the A/C compressor, but it still draws a little bit of power all the time(negligible).
Pull out the spare tire, jack, medical kit, your trunk mat and any plastics inside the trunk that you can't see when the lid is closed. Remove all the extra unnecessary plastics from inside the engine bay(engine cover, etc).
Next time you replace your battery, use a lightweight Dry Cell battery.
How far you want to go with the weight reduction depends on how serious you are about gaining speed and how willing you are to sacrifice luxury in order to get it. You could take it as far as removing the back seat, and all the unnecessary interior parts, including the radio/speakers and even the passengers seat.... but I'm sure you wouldn't want to do that if you street-drive the car.
Also, drive with the gas tank pretty low in weight when you plan on racing.... gas weighs about 6.5 to 6.75 pounds per gallon... so a full tank of gas in our cars weighs about 139 pounds. If you only keep about 3 gallons in the tank when doing a drag race, you'll be about 115 to 120 pounds lighter than you would be with a full tank.
You can also drain your windshield washer fluid reservoir to lose another 8 or 9 pounds.
Hardcore racers also remove their air conditioning systems from the car because they are both heavy, and draw power from the motor because there is an extra pulley to spin. That extra pulley doesn't take away much power when you have the AC/Defogger turned off, because there is a clutch in the system to disengage the pulley from spinning the A/C compressor, but it still draws a little bit of power all the time(negligible).
Last edited by partyman66; 10-18-2010 at 06:39 PM.
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