So today I went to start my car, it turned over, revved up to 2k then died. I turned it over again it did the same thing but then rose back up to normal idle just before stalling out. I then tap the gas pedal and I got no response form the motor, my VDC/Slip/Check Engine light were all on.

I crawled under the dash and removed my sprint booster thinking that was the problem, but no dice. The car is now sitting in my garage with no gas pedal, because it won't work. Any bits of advice to get it going?

TPS? Throttle body sensor? a short?

Sounds like limp mode, which is usually a Throttle Body problem. Pull the code and see what it says

Wouldn't limp mode allow me to at least rev the motor though and even drive it? That is what I'm confused about, I can't rev or drive it. Everything is closed at the moment so I can't do much, I'm just trying to pin-point the issue before I spend big money

**UPDATE**

I performed the re-learn and had the gas pedal pressed down to about 1/4 upon start up. Keep the rev's above 2500, I was able to control the rev's with the pedal.

Once the car dropped down to idle, the pedal stopped working. Any suggestions based on this new found results? Any help would be much appreciated

I'm also running a sprint booster. How long have you had yours on.....how many miles on your G. I'm sure hoping this isn't sprint booster related! Please keep we sprint booster users informed...thanks.

It's not sprint booster related. I have 160,000 km's on the car and had the sprint booster for the last 15,000 km's.

I was able to regulate the throttle upon start up, but if I let the car drop to idle, the car doesn't respond to the pedal position. I personally don't have the tools to figure out exactly what is wrong

All the lights still on? If you have a obdII scanner, you can run the codes. It's worth to have one as I've used my autoenginuity all the time on the family's cars

My first thought would be the ohm output of drive-by-wire pedal is zero below that pedal position and not sending info your ECU and/or TB.

Second thought could be your TB instead and have heard those going bad before, more so than pedal unit.

Try a full ECU reset before $$ out of pocket needed.

Without retrieving codes, we're really just guessing here.

ECU reset completed, no dice.

Retrieved the codes and they are as follows:

(APP Sensor related)
P2122
P2127

(TP Sensor related)

P0223
P0123
P0122
P2135

Now we cleared the codes and the only two consistent codes were the APP related code. The TP sensor codes did not appear again after clearing, however we were not able to regulate the throttle to initiate/trigger a possibility of those codes. So we're not sure if it is a combination of the two or a single problem for each. Regardless after searching through the FSM (EC section and EM section) we found that both sets of code will cause the same response of the vehicle sitting at idle/rpms not going over 1000rpm.


So what we did there after is check the voltage going to the TB and the APP. The TB had nothing going to it, the APP had 5 volts going to it.

What pissed me off is the fact we couldn't test the actual APP sensor (The one attached to the gas pedal) unless I had another car to test it on. The APP is what I personally believe is the culprit.


Regardless, if anyone has a problem like this the two sections I mentioned in the FSM would provide the best place to start. For those who are concerned only if the Sprint Booster did this, it is not the problem since the same amount of voltage is going through the prongs when hooked up to the main harness.

I wonder if you can get your hands on an APP sensor from a buddy or bone yard to test?

I would love to but I don't have time. School, work and my G35 being my only car at the age of 21 doesn't really give me much room to move about.

It's a biatch, but I chose it, so I will live with it. Ordered TB and APP. Will update upon installation. Right now the car will just sit pretty with a clean rag covering the hole where the TB should have been.