save your $ and go FI

 

Ok ok. And do u know of any sites i can find good high flow cats and headers?? Cuz im definitely new to the g35 world since im only 19

 

And i knowif i go F/i i will have to upgrade some parts so the engine can support the extra power right? And F /i is like $6000. !!

 

look in the marketplace here, you might find some great deals! g/l

**my suggestion is to research as much as possible **

 

Haaankss

 

no problem..

 

good relaible headers would be nismo headers equal length, you should be able to find a used one, as for cats, well you good go with 300 cell high flow cats, OR you can get the fast intentions test pipes, don't know if it is non resinated or resinated

 

im FI with stock internals..big mistake..motor is out as we speak being built..if your going to do it,do it right.
as for getting all the hp you can for ur money w/o going FI,less restiction,the more youll get,longtube headers and true dual exhaust applications are the way to go,they cut out the downpipe and y pipe..id say at least a 30hp gain in those 2 alone,add a spacer and upper plenum your looking at a 50hp gain total..check the market place shouldnt be more than about 1200.00 for those parts

 

I'm going to call BS on that. There's no way in hell you will make those gains, never.

 

^+1 crank pulley is more for shorter turns on the crank, it'll make it quicker off the line but its not like a hp boost, just like auto's going from 3.3 fd to 3.5 fd

 

loving the ricer math in this thread.

 

I have dynos for practically all the mods I have on my car. You can message me on AIM if you want and we can discuss. I'll be happy to help a local member But here are the mods I recommend in the order I think are most bang for the bucks.

1. Intake Plenum Spacer (5/16th " is the most popular dimension and only Motordyne makes it)
2. Test Pipes or High Flow Cats (obviously won't give you as much power)
3. Motordyne Y Pipe (the distance to the merge collector is more optimized)
4. Custom dyno tune with Osiris flash

 

Underdrive crank pulley as the name suggest is to underdrive the electrical accessories in your car in order to reduce the electrical demands for those non performance related components.

Lightweight pulley and flywheel (they both are bolted to the crankshaft) are meant to reduce unsprung rotational weight, which suppose to help your engine turn quicker (not make more power) and have less load. The concept is similar to why light wheels will help you go faster. Keep in mind that even though the concept is the same, the actual effect on power is not the same.

FD is in the rear differential, so nothing to do with the engine. It is a torque converter and has nothing to do with power output. The effect of a bigger (in terms of number) FD is the same if you were to put smaller tires on your car (overall dimension not rim size). This is based on the fact that it takes less distance for a smaller wheel to make a complete circle compared to a larger one.

 

i guess i phrased my post wrong, i was telling him that fd is the same as pulley as it both doesn't have to do with hp but more of getting it quicker off the line

 

So I could get a spacer and a new plenum?