Please then expain to me the increase in mpg. That very small change resulted in a 2+ mpg increase. Nothing I had done prior installing the resistor had any affect on gas milage. I've added a K&N air filter and Borla cat back exhaust expecting a slight increase in mpg which never materialized. The car has consistantly averaged about 19 mpg since it was new. I've kept records. Over the last 4 fillups my average increased to 21.9 mpg. That's better than a 10% increase which I consider petty good for something I wasn't sure would work either. I like to tinker and have the time and money to **** away so my attitude was WTF I'll give it a shot. I have no dog in this hunt it's basicly irrelevant whether anyone belives me or not. I don't have any involvement with the company and don't sell them on ebay. I just figured someone might be interested in my results, sorry for the intrusion The reason I don't post anything is I do not care to get into bullshit sessions like this one. I visit this site essentially for information and research. Some of which I find informative and other information a little too involved for me to take on as a poject or I have no interest in. You guys won't hear from me again unless you care to.

 

If you're being honest. I suppose no one can argue that. However, I don't think there is a shred of evidence supporting your claim. I'll just give you the benefit of the doubt. I still wouldn't buy one though.

 

OK your posting what you have perceived and recorded, but I'm afraid the overwhelming evidence for these devices, and i am being gracious here as the majority are just a resistor or variable resistor (sometimes) hidden inside a clever looking plastic thingamajig,
But you need to be able to understand how your car engine works in order to understand why these don't work, as supposed, I'm not saying that they don't do anything, just that they don't anything properly.
Some older cars can have them fitted to the MFA output wire to the ECU and this can result in the ECU seeing a slightly higher air flow reading, which results in the ECU throwing slightly more fuel in, now on a turbo engine with a little increase in boost you will likely have a small perceivable increase in performance, but if you do the same to an N/A car it will lilky make it feel more sluggish and increase your fuel consumption.

On most modern cars,(and in particular the Infiniti) if you add a resistor to MFA signal wire, if it doesn't trigger a fault code or drop you into limp, the ECU will just dial out the change because it monitors lambda, so the combustion mixture is governed by this,
The same goes if the resistor is attached to the IAT sensor wire, the resistor might make the ECU see that the temperature's are low , but the MFA is still seeing the same amount of air (cold air is more dense, and so will make no increase the MFA voltage and vice versa) but as the ECU knows that the air is not cold by the resulting voltage, it will just dial out any changes that the resistor is trying to make, the modern ECU is a clever bit of kit, i can see no way for a resistor to actually achieve any of the claims, even piggyback ECUs cant change the closed loop fueling, and that pretty much coverer's most loading up to 4,000 RPM.

I strongly suspect that you have subconsciously adjusted your driving style,
also you do know that the ECU is capable of adapting to the way you drive, if you drive conservatively and then try and drive fast, the ECU will take a good 2-5 miles to re adjust to this and will not give maximum performance immediately, this fact is dyno proven

 

If they are posts like these, we will be fine without you.











































I kid, don't get all bent out of shape.

 

Invalid argument unless there's a before and after dyno.

 

Trickey-Rickey you are exactly right about it being a resistor. If you put an ohm meter on it show the resistance increasing or decreasing as one turns the dial. If you read into the more involved ads it sort of infers that it's a resistor. I was nerver any illusion that there was some sort of computer inside.My best guess regarding my milage is the the varible resistor causes a leaning out of my fuel mixture which was exactly what I wanted. After my Borla and K&N installation my car has been running evidenced by the residue accumulating in the exhaust. I didn't install this thing for more power and I'm not interested in spending 400 dollars to reprogram my ECU. It just isn't worth it to me. I've never claimed anything that I posted was scientific. Yea I'm just about to spend a wad of money for dyno time to prove a point. What do you geniuses suggest to increase milage and and performance that dosent involve dissasembling half the engine and installing $800 dollars worth of over priced parts. Remember I don't race the car is just something to fool around with. You guys sound like your opinions are biblical and I commited herasy by using a gizmo and actually think it works. Why don't one of you guys try one and see if I/m bullshitting. They're returnable.

 

Did you read and understand the rest of what i wrote though,
you wouldn't still think that a resistor could actually fool a sophisticated piece of electronic design into changing the way it works, if you had.

If you really want to achieve better MPG then either refine your driving technique to suite economy, or have the ECU remapped for economy, but if thats wasting money, then just be happy with your present consumption,
as they say nothing in this world is free

 

I want my 7 mins back for reading this thread lol

 

I too would like to know if these work. Guarantee there are similar chips that work on sport bikes, why not cars. Although. sometimes there are drive-ability tradeoffs.

 

Here we go again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again. and again.

 

Well, we *do* all know that the factory tunes this same engine for a variety of HP outputs...G35 coupe and 350Z make more power than the G sedan. I think the original poster was simply hoping to capitalize on this untapped power.

I would also like to do the same. The 350z made around 60hp more than my G sedan for the same year. So, surely in a forum like this folks have found ways to do this. What is the agreed-upon method for remapping the engine for more power and, if possible, increased mileage?

 

^ Uprev tune

 

I currently have two of these running in parallel, in case one fails.

 

Did it double the gains?

 

Dofu,
Unfortunately, I couldn't tell you that, because the first failed right off. Good thing I didn't run them in series.