MD spacer is awesome!
#17
02-22-2011, 02:20 AM
Basically this,
1) The basic spacer leaves the entire plenum hot all the time. (just like stock)
2) The Iso Thermal heats the plenum when you need it and doesn't heat the plenum when you don't need it. But depending on weather condition, the coolant control valve CCV must be switched on or off.
3) The Copper Iso Thermal is fully automatic. Just install it and forget it. It always gives the best results without adjustment. But it costs more.
The difference is basically in that the regular one is just a spacer. The Iso Thermal is a spacer+a CCV. the ccv controls coolant flow to your throttle body preventing it from freezing in really cold temps(open valve for cold, close valve for hot). The copper iso thermal is the iso thermal spacer+ a copper spacer for between the TB and the plenum. The copper controls the temperature on its own and doesnt require a valve hooked up to the coolant line.
1) The basic spacer leaves the entire plenum hot all the time. (just like stock)
2) The Iso Thermal heats the plenum when you need it and doesn't heat the plenum when you don't need it. But depending on weather condition, the coolant control valve CCV must be switched on or off.
3) The Copper Iso Thermal is fully automatic. Just install it and forget it. It always gives the best results without adjustment. But it costs more.
The difference is basically in that the regular one is just a spacer. The Iso Thermal is a spacer+a CCV. the ccv controls coolant flow to your throttle body preventing it from freezing in really cold temps(open valve for cold, close valve for hot). The copper iso thermal is the iso thermal spacer+ a copper spacer for between the TB and the plenum. The copper controls the temperature on its own and doesnt require a valve hooked up to the coolant line.
#18
02-22-2011, 03:03 AM
Yea i have 2004 G35 coupe 5AT with a Ztube, Stillen Intake with K&N, Grounding Kit, and a 5/16. This really makes the car pull. It added a total of 25 BHP according to the Dyno. Im soon adding a Orisis Tune which will help me a hell of alot more.
Even for a small price you can make huge difference in the way your car runs, sounds, and the acceleration.
Even for a small price you can make huge difference in the way your car runs, sounds, and the acceleration.
#19
02-22-2011, 04:55 AM
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Just did this mod to my G last saturday too. Noticed big change when I down shift from 4th to 3th in 3000 - 5000rpm. I noticed a stronger pull in that power range. Definitely worth all of $239. Took me 2 hours total. It would help to download the installation instructions from MotorDyne and read it first so you have an idea of how the installation go then install it following the instructions. *** Watch out for the Plenum edges. They are extremely sharp. Took a good chunk of skin off my hand ***
#20
02-22-2011, 09:11 AM
Basically this,
1) The basic spacer leaves the entire plenum hot all the time. (just like stock)
2) The Iso Thermal heats the plenum when you need it and doesn't heat the plenum when you don't need it. But depending on weather condition, the coolant control valve CCV must be switched on or off.
3) The Copper Iso Thermal is fully automatic. Just install it and forget it. It always gives the best results without adjustment. But it costs more.
The difference is basically in that the regular one is just a spacer. The Iso Thermal is a spacer+a CCV. the ccv controls coolant flow to your throttle body preventing it from freezing in really cold temps(open valve for cold, close valve for hot). The copper iso thermal is the iso thermal spacer+ a copper spacer for between the TB and the plenum. The copper controls the temperature on its own and doesnt require a valve hooked up to the coolant line.
1) The basic spacer leaves the entire plenum hot all the time. (just like stock)
2) The Iso Thermal heats the plenum when you need it and doesn't heat the plenum when you don't need it. But depending on weather condition, the coolant control valve CCV must be switched on or off.
3) The Copper Iso Thermal is fully automatic. Just install it and forget it. It always gives the best results without adjustment. But it costs more.
The difference is basically in that the regular one is just a spacer. The Iso Thermal is a spacer+a CCV. the ccv controls coolant flow to your throttle body preventing it from freezing in really cold temps(open valve for cold, close valve for hot). The copper iso thermal is the iso thermal spacer+ a copper spacer for between the TB and the plenum. The copper controls the temperature on its own and doesnt require a valve hooked up to the coolant line.
#21
02-22-2011, 02:00 PM
#22
02-22-2011, 04:12 PM
Couple of questions xWRECKo. Where in the RPM range do you see the 25hp? And where on the RPM range did you see the first full 10hp gain? Also, what kind of torque gains did you see?
I've always been skeptical about the real gains you get from some of this bolt on stuff and how many $$/hp they cost.
I've always been skeptical about the real gains you get from some of this bolt on stuff and how many $$/hp they cost.
#23
02-22-2011, 04:27 PM
#24
02-27-2011, 08:22 PM
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I have a question on the installation.
The copper iso thermal plenum spacer kit comes with the lower
gasket.
If I am not installing a MREV2(i have 06' 5at) do I need to install the lower gasket?
According to the instructions:
"After cleaning, leave the upper plenum set it aside to allow room for removal of the lower plenum and installation of the Iso Thermal gasket. (Iso Thermal and MREV2 only)"
Bit confused on that.
Thanks.
The copper iso thermal plenum spacer kit comes with the lower
gasket.
If I am not installing a MREV2(i have 06' 5at) do I need to install the lower gasket?
According to the instructions:
"After cleaning, leave the upper plenum set it aside to allow room for removal of the lower plenum and installation of the Iso Thermal gasket. (Iso Thermal and MREV2 only)"
Bit confused on that.
Thanks.
#25
02-27-2011, 08:48 PM
Arn35
^^The Aramid gasket is designed to get rid of heat transfer from the manifold to the upper and lower plenum. It will keep the plenum area running much cooler. If you dont want to install it, dont. After installing the aramid gasket, mrev2 and spacer i noticed the plenum is completely cold to the touch now. Before installing these parts the plenum would be incredibly hot to the touch. The way i see it, the cooler the plenum, the cooler the air entering the manifold. it is debatable though as to how this effects intake air temps because the air is moving so fast it would have very little time to heat up in there...anyway theres your answer
^^The Aramid gasket is designed to get rid of heat transfer from the manifold to the upper and lower plenum. It will keep the plenum area running much cooler. If you dont want to install it, dont. After installing the aramid gasket, mrev2 and spacer i noticed the plenum is completely cold to the touch now. Before installing these parts the plenum would be incredibly hot to the touch. The way i see it, the cooler the plenum, the cooler the air entering the manifold. it is debatable though as to how this effects intake air temps because the air is moving so fast it would have very little time to heat up in there...anyway theres your answer
Last edited by sillyoldtayo; 02-27-2011 at 08:48 PM. Reason: hooters
#26
02-27-2011, 09:14 PM
Couple of questions xWRECKo. Where in the RPM range do you see the 25hp? And where on the RPM range did you see the first full 10hp gain? Also, what kind of torque gains did you see?
I've always been skeptical about the real gains you get from some of this bolt on stuff and how many $$/hp they cost.
I've always been skeptical about the real gains you get from some of this bolt on stuff and how many $$/hp they cost.
First here is the brake down.
Ztube- about 3-5 horse power basically just for sound
Stillen intake- combo with ztube 12-15 horse
groundin kit- nothing (everyone has one so i got it)
5/16 spacer- about 10-15
Now i basically didnt feel the first 10 but once i reached 3500 it just took it to the limit. I didnt know this little thing could give it such a great pull
I gained 23 lbs
#28
02-27-2011, 09:49 PM
sorry it took so long for me to reply ive been out of town.
First here is the brake down.
Ztube- about 3-5 horse power basically just for sound
Stillen intake- combo with ztube 12-15 horse
groundin kit- nothing (everyone has one so i got it)
5/16 spacer- about 10-15
Now i basically didnt feel the first 10 but once i reached 3500 it just took it to the limit. I didnt know this little thing could give it such a great pull
I gained 23 lbs
First here is the brake down.
Ztube- about 3-5 horse power basically just for sound
Stillen intake- combo with ztube 12-15 horse
groundin kit- nothing (everyone has one so i got it)
5/16 spacer- about 10-15
Now i basically didnt feel the first 10 but once i reached 3500 it just took it to the limit. I didnt know this little thing could give it such a great pull
I gained 23 lbs
Can you post the graph of the dyno pulls?
