rev-up 6mt racing shift points
stock looking rear muffler, crappy body work, large tach by the steering wheel, big haired guy driving lol?
Well, most cars and motorcycles make peak HP 2-3Krpm before redline. Unless your head is ported to rev to the moon, it is best to shift at peak HP (but you won't really know this until you get it dynoed), not redline all the time. I learned this when drag racing ATVs and racing as well. It was best to shift around 7K since my ATV lost almost 2 HP going from 7Krpm to 10K. Once I got it ported for mid-top end power, it made peak HP at 10K rpm. Anyways that is what you are experiencing.
Check this out for example, it would be better for this guy to shift at 5500-6000 rpm when racing

Check this out for example, it would be better for this guy to shift at 5500-6000 rpm when racing

Most high-revving motors make peak horsepower a few HUNDRED RPM before redline (not a few thousand). For example, my 04 coupe is rated to make peak at 6200, redline at 6500. A rev-up like the OP's is rated to make peak at 6400, redline at 7000. And, just for the heck of it, the new E9X M3 with the V8 makes peak power at 8300 with redline at 8400. The M5 on my driveway makes peak at 7750 with redline at 8250.
Anyway...when driving your car the point is to maximize the amount of power that makes it to the wheels. With each higher gear, less power is translated because you lose the mechanical advantage gear reduction with each higher gear. So, unless your car drops in power significantly at upper RPM's, there's no reason not to rev it to redline.
Look at the graph you posted. You wanted to maximize the power under the HP curve. If you take a 1500RPM band, you'll see you get the most power under that 1500RPM band if you make it so the upper end of that band is at redline (5000-6500). If you instead shifted at 5500 like you suggested, the bottom portion of your band would be 4000 and be seriously out of the power band.
Granted, some times vehicles have a much higher redline to allow overrev where you rev the engine a bit higher than your typical shift point because you need to brake anyway and an upshift followed by an immediate downshift would actually waste time and slow you down.
I understand all these concepts however everything has exceptions. With my civic's in the past I always shifted 100rpm before the rev limiter as the power was there. However in my G35 when you have a race where I'm shifting at 7000rpm and no longer pulling away from buddy after 6600rpm......its obvious that I will keep losing. For the hell of it I shifted at 6500 that time racing and guess what...I kept pulling hard away from him and gaining car lengths...you would have to be retarded to keep shifting where you're losing races.
1.) Im not shifting slow by any means, its pretty fast lol I can't say it clearer than that
2.) my clutch is functioning properly as is my transmission
The track is opening up soon in my area so the truth will be told after a few runs at different shift points...ill mix it up quite a bit
1.) Im not shifting slow by any means, its pretty fast lol I can't say it clearer than that
2.) my clutch is functioning properly as is my transmission
The track is opening up soon in my area so the truth will be told after a few runs at different shift points...ill mix it up quite a bit
I understand all these concepts however everything has exceptions. With my civic's in the past I always shifted 100rpm before the rev limiter as the power was there. However in my G35 when you have a race where I'm shifting at 7000rpm and no longer pulling away from buddy after 6600rpm......its obvious that I will keep losing. For the hell of it I shifted at 6500 that time racing and guess what...I kept pulling hard away from him and gaining car lengths...you would have to be retarded to keep shifting where you're losing races.
1.) Im not shifting slow by any means, its pretty fast lol I can't say it clearer than that
2.) my clutch is functioning properly as is my transmission
The track is opening up soon in my area so the truth will be told after a few runs at different shift points...ill mix it up quite a bit
1.) Im not shifting slow by any means, its pretty fast lol I can't say it clearer than that
2.) my clutch is functioning properly as is my transmission
The track is opening up soon in my area so the truth will be told after a few runs at different shift points...ill mix it up quite a bit
There could be a ton of reasons why you're benefiting from short shifting. Something is causing your power to drop off hard enough that shifting to the next gear is actually resulting in more power transfer to the ground than letting it wind out. Could be anywhere from bad gas causing the engine to really pull timing to a dirty air filter or even a bad spark plug in one of the cylinders causing it to miss up top.
Here's mine 
Whenever I turn vdc off shifting at 7k = lots of tire spin when I enter 2nd.
Maybe I shift slow but I find it better to shift at 6700 to 6800ish.
From 2nd to 3rd, 7000rpm still spins a little bit, so I still think 6700 to 6800ish is best shift point.
If you hit the rev limiter, that'll slow you down even more... So I'd say 6700-6800ish in my opinion.

Whenever I turn vdc off shifting at 7k = lots of tire spin when I enter 2nd.
Maybe I shift slow but I find it better to shift at 6700 to 6800ish.
From 2nd to 3rd, 7000rpm still spins a little bit, so I still think 6700 to 6800ish is best shift point.
If you hit the rev limiter, that'll slow you down even more... So I'd say 6700-6800ish in my opinion.
Last edited by lcysimon; May 6, 2011 at 12:03 AM.
Here's mine 
Whenever I turn vdc off shifting at 7k = lots of tire spin when I enter 2nd.
Maybe I shift slow but I find it better to shift at 6700 to 6800ish.
From 2nd to 3rd, 7000rpm still spins a little bit, so I still think 6700 to 6800ish is best shift point.
If you hit the rev limiter, that'll slow you down even more... So I'd say 6700-6800ish in my opinion.

Whenever I turn vdc off shifting at 7k = lots of tire spin when I enter 2nd.
Maybe I shift slow but I find it better to shift at 6700 to 6800ish.
From 2nd to 3rd, 7000rpm still spins a little bit, so I still think 6700 to 6800ish is best shift point.
If you hit the rev limiter, that'll slow you down even more... So I'd say 6700-6800ish in my opinion.
some of the people that are saying shift at redline are non rev-up people with 6500 or 6600rpm rev limit....so yes that is where I am shifting. ALso thanks Icysimon for the dyno sheet as you have a rev-up AND an hr y-pipe like myself..therefore I dont see why my dyno sheet would be much different. Maybe the hr y-pipe shifts the power band a bit.
By the way I was ALWAYS shifting at 7000rpm when racing for the last couple months. However after shifting earlier the other day it has really made things interesting.
But enough talk from me lol as the track will give the results. Ill try to get atleast 20 runs in and ill post the results.
By the way I was ALWAYS shifting at 7000rpm when racing for the last couple months. However after shifting earlier the other day it has really made things interesting.
But enough talk from me lol as the track will give the results. Ill try to get atleast 20 runs in and ill post the results.
Engines obviously work harder at higher RPM's, so usually any "issues" will be revealed there. Furthermore, any "issues" will be most noticed at higher RPM's.
There could be a ton of reasons why you're benefiting from short shifting. Something is causing your power to drop off hard enough that shifting to the next gear is actually resulting in more power transfer to the ground than letting it wind out. Could be anywhere from bad gas causing the engine to really pull timing to a dirty air filter or even a bad spark plug in one of the cylinders causing it to miss up top.
There could be a ton of reasons why you're benefiting from short shifting. Something is causing your power to drop off hard enough that shifting to the next gear is actually resulting in more power transfer to the ground than letting it wind out. Could be anywhere from bad gas causing the engine to really pull timing to a dirty air filter or even a bad spark plug in one of the cylinders causing it to miss up top.
A few weeks before this race I raced an 2009 or 2010 Audi s5 4.2l v8 (354hp). From a 2nd gear roll I lost a length but I kept that gap through 3rd and 4th and was creeping up on him a bit. THis is when I DID shift at 7000rpm..I'de like to race him again shifting lower. Keep in mind that the audi is a 13.1 car stock...
There could be a ton of reasons why you're benefiting from short shifting. Something is causing your power to drop off hard enough that shifting to the next gear is actually resulting in more power transfer to the ground than letting it wind out. Could be anywhere from bad gas causing the engine to really pull timing to a dirty air filter or even a bad spark plug in one of the cylinders causing it to miss up top.
I think your plan to get 20 or so runs in is ideal. But may I make a suggestion?
5 runs at 7000, 5 runs at 6500, 1 run each at 6500, 6600, 6700, 6800, 69(teehee)00, 7000. Then 7000, 69(Ha-Ha)00, 6800, 6700, 6600, 6500.
I think you might get the best times in the 6900 to 6800 range, shifting exactly as you do. I drive an 07, 6mt, and the rev limiter and I are not intimate, but we know each other well. I think you'll get the best shifts at the top end if you scale back just a bit, not a full 500rpm.
Worth some thought anyway.
OP, this is what I'd be thinking about. Looking at the curves posted by lcysimon, you can see max power at max rpms. I've always noticed a delay in RPM drop after letting the gas off. Its very possible that you are shifting well, in time, and with great speed, but the engine is touching the rev limit, or responding a little slower at the top end, due to the above reasons, or even due to design.
I think your plan to get 20 or so runs in is ideal. But may I make a suggestion?
5 runs at 7000, 5 runs at 6500, 1 run each at 6500, 6600, 6700, 6800, 69(teehee)00, 7000. Then 7000, 69(Ha-Ha)00, 6800, 6700, 6600, 6500.
I think you might get the best times in the 6900 to 6800 range, shifting exactly as you do. I drive an 07, 6mt, and the rev limiter and I are not intimate, but we know each other well. I think you'll get the best shifts at the top end if you scale back just a bit, not a full 500rpm.
Worth some thought anyway.
I think your plan to get 20 or so runs in is ideal. But may I make a suggestion?
5 runs at 7000, 5 runs at 6500, 1 run each at 6500, 6600, 6700, 6800, 69(teehee)00, 7000. Then 7000, 69(Ha-Ha)00, 6800, 6700, 6600, 6500.
I think you might get the best times in the 6900 to 6800 range, shifting exactly as you do. I drive an 07, 6mt, and the rev limiter and I are not intimate, but we know each other well. I think you'll get the best shifts at the top end if you scale back just a bit, not a full 500rpm.
Worth some thought anyway.
Also I change my oil and filter every 1800km and I have 59 000km so I hope there are no gremlins on my top end

Thanks everyone for your input
Former G35driver Vendor
iTrader: (37)
Let off the throttle at your 7k shifts.. You might be hitting the limiter shifting at 6,800 is about right of you're shifting WOT. I didn't notice it myself until I had a camera mount and recorded a few drag run.
So what you should try is to get a camera and see if you can do a few pulls with the window up to eliminate wind noise.. You'll be able to hear if you hit the limiter.. I cut my shifts back from 7-7,200 to 6,800 with a faster time because of this. Also shifting while letting throttle fall was almost the same time as shifting WOT at 7k.
Car was stock was I was doing this sub 10k miles.. Yes I shift fast enough.. too bad you'll have to take my word for it.
As for the power curve thing.. This is directed at the OP's 2006 6MT and 05+ 6MT ONLY this does NOT apply to 03-04 G35s and does not apply to automatics of all year.
We've actually pushed the power curve upward of 7,200 before on stock cams by adjusting the intake manifold.. giving it more volume. We saw a very very big drop in power curve by doing that. What is proven and is very popular today is to actually use longer an intake manifold with longer runners but increase the volume of the manifold. The result was an astonishing jump in mid-range especially in the entire torque band. With more power BUT ALSO PEAKING OUT at 6,000.. (stock would peak and hold from about 6,400-7k).. so with this mod you'd wana shift right at 6,100 and just run that peak..
sort to speak IMO infiniti just wanted to say oh lol-298 rated hp and sacced a ton of low end for it..
i dont even know what my point was..
So what you should try is to get a camera and see if you can do a few pulls with the window up to eliminate wind noise.. You'll be able to hear if you hit the limiter.. I cut my shifts back from 7-7,200 to 6,800 with a faster time because of this. Also shifting while letting throttle fall was almost the same time as shifting WOT at 7k.
Car was stock was I was doing this sub 10k miles.. Yes I shift fast enough.. too bad you'll have to take my word for it.
As for the power curve thing.. This is directed at the OP's 2006 6MT and 05+ 6MT ONLY this does NOT apply to 03-04 G35s and does not apply to automatics of all year.
We've actually pushed the power curve upward of 7,200 before on stock cams by adjusting the intake manifold.. giving it more volume. We saw a very very big drop in power curve by doing that. What is proven and is very popular today is to actually use longer an intake manifold with longer runners but increase the volume of the manifold. The result was an astonishing jump in mid-range especially in the entire torque band. With more power BUT ALSO PEAKING OUT at 6,000.. (stock would peak and hold from about 6,400-7k).. so with this mod you'd wana shift right at 6,100 and just run that peak..
sort to speak IMO infiniti just wanted to say oh lol-298 rated hp and sacced a ton of low end for it..
i dont even know what my point was..
Let off the throttle at your 7k shifts.. You might be hitting the limiter shifting at 6,800 is about right of you're shifting WOT. I didn't notice it myself until I had a camera mount and recorded a few drag run.
So what you should try is to get a camera and see if you can do a few pulls with the window up to eliminate wind noise.. You'll be able to hear if you hit the limiter.. I cut my shifts back from 7-7,200 to 6,800 with a faster time because of this. Also shifting while letting throttle fall was almost the same time as shifting WOT at 7k.
Car was stock was I was doing this sub 10k miles.. Yes I shift fast enough.. too bad you'll have to take my word for it.
As for the power curve thing.. This is directed at the OP's 2006 6MT and 05+ 6MT ONLY this does NOT apply to 03-04 G35s and does not apply to automatics of all year.
We've actually pushed the power curve upward of 7,200 before on stock cams by adjusting the intake manifold.. giving it more volume. We saw a very very big drop in power curve by doing that. What is proven and is very popular today is to actually use longer an intake manifold with longer runners but increase the volume of the manifold. The result was an astonishing jump in mid-range especially in the entire torque band. With more power BUT ALSO PEAKING OUT at 6,000.. (stock would peak and hold from about 6,400-7k).. so with this mod you'd wana shift right at 6,100 and just run that peak..
sort to speak IMO infiniti just wanted to say oh lol-298 rated hp and sacced a ton of low end for it..
i dont even know what my point was..
So what you should try is to get a camera and see if you can do a few pulls with the window up to eliminate wind noise.. You'll be able to hear if you hit the limiter.. I cut my shifts back from 7-7,200 to 6,800 with a faster time because of this. Also shifting while letting throttle fall was almost the same time as shifting WOT at 7k.
Car was stock was I was doing this sub 10k miles.. Yes I shift fast enough.. too bad you'll have to take my word for it.
As for the power curve thing.. This is directed at the OP's 2006 6MT and 05+ 6MT ONLY this does NOT apply to 03-04 G35s and does not apply to automatics of all year.
We've actually pushed the power curve upward of 7,200 before on stock cams by adjusting the intake manifold.. giving it more volume. We saw a very very big drop in power curve by doing that. What is proven and is very popular today is to actually use longer an intake manifold with longer runners but increase the volume of the manifold. The result was an astonishing jump in mid-range especially in the entire torque band. With more power BUT ALSO PEAKING OUT at 6,000.. (stock would peak and hold from about 6,400-7k).. so with this mod you'd wana shift right at 6,100 and just run that peak..
sort to speak IMO infiniti just wanted to say oh lol-298 rated hp and sacced a ton of low end for it..
i dont even know what my point was..
A camera and track runs would be perfect.
CarBody...That was a confusing post.
OP, tried a little shifting myself, def need to watch the needle cause it rises awful fast, definitely try what carbody and I are advocating, 6800 or so to shift. I'm in for the results if you do the 20+ runs.
OP, tried a little shifting myself, def need to watch the needle cause it rises awful fast, definitely try what carbody and I are advocating, 6800 or so to shift. I'm in for the results if you do the 20+ runs.
Former G35driver Vendor
iTrader: (37)
^ Sorry I know lol I got 2-3 phone calls during that post and completely lost track..
Anyways just take the first part. Camera in the car with windows up really helps.
Anyways just take the first part. Camera in the car with windows up really helps.


