So, basically, when I'm in first or second gear and floor it, there's like a 2 or 3 second 'bog' or just, terrible acceleration, which is not how it used to be. It feels like the car has to think about accelerating before it does it. It's like turbo's spooling up, but I don't have those.

Anyone know what it is?

It's a 2004 6MT coupe.

 

ummmm...this could be a million things like bad gas, low tire pressure, clogged fuel injector, misfire or anything else. Did you do something different recently with the vehicle. Did you change your source of gas or added any treatments to your gas. I would try an ECU reset and see if that helps relearn your driving technique.

 

I haven't really done anything, I've been driving like a grandmother though recently... (bad weather)... To reset the ECU, isn't that just unplug battery overnight?

Also, here's a pic so this thread isn't as boring.


*photoshop ftw*

 

I was not planning on replying until I saw the PIC....plz update with more pics next time atleast 3 or more.MWAHHAHAHAHAAHA.

Just disconnect battery and tap brakes and leave it for couple hours easiest but also pedal method for some people who prefer that and much more.


A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/g35-how-t...g-t356397.html

 

Nice, thanks for the info! I'll do that tomorrow and see what happens. If anyone else experienced this problem and it was something else, lemme hear it! :P

 

Ok, about to go pass out but how bout i post ***** a little tonight eh....(yes I am somewhat Canadian)

How many miles on the car and when was the last time you replaced tranny fluid and diff fluid. Could it also be that the VDC/TCS is causing this reduction in power if you are losing traction. I would disable VDC/TCS and try it again. How much tread left on your rear tires and any wear spots. I can break traction and get it to bog when I am in 1st or second with TCS and yes i have 6MT.

 

i would think its cuz youve been driving like a grandma. the ecu adapted to grandma driving and now you need to haul *** for awhile to get it back to aggressive driving.

 

do the pedal method for the ecu reset if you can. Then go drive your car. .And you will probably feel a difference.

 

That, if true, is one of the stupidest things I've heard automotive-wise in a long time.

The ECU has "learned" to **** up and kill your acceleration when you need/want it?!?!

I agree that the VDC does this when you're slipping, but you didn't mention it at all.

I'd guess misfiring, clogged spark plugs, anything else having to do with fuel or air issues.

If resetting the ECU fixes this, I'd go get a new ECU. That's assinine.

 

^you should do some research bud...

 

Research isn't going to change my opinion. If infact that is how it works, I think it's stupid.

Adding a 2-3 second lag, or slowing FULL THROTTLE acceleration that much, is something I can't agree with.

Yes, alter shift points to make driving more pleasant or smooth. Sure.

Tweak fuel/air for better economy. Sure.

Completely take away hard acceleration off the line by changing what full throttle means?

Does it seem acceptable to you that WOT isn't WOT?

Again, I don't have to like it, if that's what's causing the issue. Call me a dinosaur, who prefers cars that are cars, not computers.

My opinion is all.

 

Lot's of possibilities but I don't think the ECU would learn to do stupid tricks like that. I'd check on air filter, MAF sensor and intake vacuum leaks in addition some of the bad gas and fouled plugs suggestions earlier. If anything the ECU is trying to compensate for one of these issues.

How many miles / what gas and when was the last time you checked your air filter ???? Could even be clogged PCV.

 

Sweet a/ss..

 

Still no update on this yet, I started driving and ran over a bolt of some sort. Nice tire upgrade. And all the tire shops were too busy today to fix. Lame.

Tomorrow!

 

Im having the same exact problem... Tried all the pedal resets. Did spark plugs... put in a k&n drop in. mods are ART pipes, MD spacer 5/16, Z Tube. Thats all. Even before mods the throttle is so laggggy! Tires are good.. Air Filter is good..
Now the car will run freaking AMAZING on a COLD Start. But once the car is all warmed up BOOM there goes all my Power =/ ive been seeing plenty of threads on this laggy throttle but not one fix yet.