Warped stoptech rotors?
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 109
Likes: 2
From: American Canyon, CA
I installed some cross drilled and slotted rotors, ss lines, replced fluid and new pads (Red stuff). About 4k into it a started noticing some shaking and serious wheel vibrations. WTH I thoght, did I really just warp these stoptechs!? Called the Co. and they of course suggested I change the pads to one of there own becaus thay had not "tested" the redstuff with these rotors. When I did replace them, I went ahead and very evenly and lightly sanded the rotors down with a 1200 (i think) fine grit sand paper, cleaned em off and reinstalled them. NO luck. Most of the vibration is in the pedal. When I pump the pedal is when I feel it the most, not so much when I slam the breaks... at least not right away, but closer to the stopping. Recently I've noticed a little noise, like a helicopter noise. Last time I heard that, it was my wheels off balance. There isn't noticeable shaking in steering wheel above a certain speed, it's there.. but no more than before all the breaking issues. Could it be the bearings? Any ideas are welcome... and I'm NOT taking it to the dealer, my warranty is up. Go figure.
yes I had the same problem with my stop tech after 6 months of use. I did the same thing took them all off and sanded with no luck. They are now in the garage I ended up replacing them with rotors form ebay 140 ship for 4 slot and drilled. so far it has been 3months or so with no vibration the car stops great now.
it sucks I paid good money for stoptech rotors and pads and are totaly disaponited with the rotors. I will see if a shop here can resurface them just to have spare set.
it sucks I paid good money for stoptech rotors and pads and are totaly disaponited with the rotors. I will see if a shop here can resurface them just to have spare set.
Are you guys doing this? http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/Bed-in
Last edited by KSWAY; Jun 29, 2011 at 11:11 AM.
Yes they can as have had to turn my rotors....lucky i run a shop so its free.You just have to take very small cuts at a time.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 109
Likes: 2
From: American Canyon, CA
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 109
Likes: 2
From: American Canyon, CA
I've called several places, they won't do it. Liability. I've read a few other threads leading to maybe a bearing assembly replacement... From what I've read, it's a manufacturer defect. WHO has stop-tech's and has some sort of documented problems? Anyone willing to start a long list of complaints?? Not a class act suit, but if enough of collaborate to make it worth getting their attention.. it can call attention to this problem.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 109
Likes: 2
From: American Canyon, CA
there's a "break-in" period for everything. I didn't just decide to throw all this time and money into a break system and throw it all away on BS. Next time KISS. Keep it simple stupid.
the easiest way to warp the rotors is to over tighten your lug nuts. It is fixable by loosing up your lug nuts and tighten them in a proper pattern to a proper torque settings.
Learn how to brake properly, riding your brake paddle all the time like a **** isn't a right way.
break-in procedures are very important for hight performance pads and rotors and must be followed.
it is very difficult to permanently warp the rotors or to warp them at all by simply braking and heating them up, they have to be red hot and on fire to deform the metal.
In most cases issue comes down to improper tightening of lug nuts and as mentioned already could be simply fixed by properly tightening lug nuts.
If vibration still remains, you got your self "hot spots" and not warped rotor. Hot spots are fixed by machining the rotor (any rotor: slotted, drilled, slotted and drilled), sand paper will not do ****.
I had same StopTech slotted rotors for past 80k on my G. They have been machined 3 times and lived through few pads
Learn how to brake properly, riding your brake paddle all the time like a **** isn't a right way.
break-in procedures are very important for hight performance pads and rotors and must be followed.
it is very difficult to permanently warp the rotors or to warp them at all by simply braking and heating them up, they have to be red hot and on fire to deform the metal.
In most cases issue comes down to improper tightening of lug nuts and as mentioned already could be simply fixed by properly tightening lug nuts.
If vibration still remains, you got your self "hot spots" and not warped rotor. Hot spots are fixed by machining the rotor (any rotor: slotted, drilled, slotted and drilled), sand paper will not do ****.
I had same StopTech slotted rotors for past 80k on my G. They have been machined 3 times and lived through few pads
Retorquing my rotors never alleviated this after a shop messed it up. I usually try to loosen/retorque myself, but after they do overtorque and it does warp them, My retorquing does not help. That is, unless you are saying they have to be machined if they produce vibration. Most of the "warping" is deposits like you say.
I have the same problem after only 6 months. Stoptech rotors and stoptech pads. The front of my car shakes when I apply the brakes. Especially bad on the highway. I took my front wheels off and found these rough patches on the rotors. Only the fronts. I'm going to call the shop where I got them and see what they say.
I have the same problem after only 6 months. Stoptech rotors and stoptech pads. The front of my car shakes when I apply the brakes. Especially bad on the highway. I took my front wheels off and found these rough patches on the rotors. Only the fronts. I'm going to call the shop where I got them and see what they say.




