dyno'd at 243 rwhp, is this ok???
The numbers seem accurate. When my 06 5AT had full bolt-ons and preset tune, I dyno'd 247whp which was on a Mustang dyno. As already mentioned different dynos will provide different results, especially when considering the location and altitude.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 313
Likes: 13
From: Santa Clarita
thats what i needed to know, i appreciate it....so basically ive done what i can unless i go FI right???
yea i was gonna say that, free up a lot more power
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 313
Likes: 13
From: Santa Clarita
that would eliminate my cats tho...im in cali, strict smog rules here...but i agree with u.
HFC's will probably be your best bet, I believe Berks will pass the sniffer, still have to worry about the visual though. A retune with HFC's will easily get you in the 250's.
bhp means brake horsepower.
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usually whatever the hp they tell you from the dealer or what the maker post are the base hp strictly from the motor....subtract about 50hp and u will get the hp to the wheels. of course thats with a brand new motor...so like the motor with 700 miles thats about right. your not gonna get that with a car pushing 60k, 90k, ya know? mines getting 250 to the wheels with most the bolt ons u can put and dyno tuned with Osiris at uprev in austin, its an 06 AT. so bolt ons im figuring 250 is a good average...unless you go all motor and build it im sure you could push 300 maybe more?
usually whatever the hp they tell you from the dealer or what the maker post are the base hp strictly from the motor....subtract about 50hp and u will get the hp to the wheels. of course thats with a brand new motor...so like the motor with 700 miles thats about right. your not gonna get that with a car pushing 60k, 90k, ya know? mines getting 250 to the wheels with most the bolt ons u can put and dyno tuned with Osiris at uprev in austin, its an 06 AT. so bolt ons im figuring 250 is a good average...unless you go all motor and build it im sure you could push 300 maybe more?
If your are wanting noticeable gains and wanting to stay NA, I would start with cams! Otherwise a snail is the way to go... After I get some wheels for
My G, I'll be piecing together a rear mount turbo kit... Rear mount is the way to
Go because there isn't enough room in the engine bay for a big snail... Now I will experience more turbo lag but I'm used to it... When I get into boost it's going to be better than sex so the wait will be worth it
I know all About drivetrain loss... AT will eat up more than MT, AWD will eat up more than RWD, supercharger (roots) will eat up more than turbo... 250rwhp sounds accurate to me for the OP. All the hoopla that all these companies say their product gives such and such hp gain is all hypothetical.
If your are wanting noticeable gains and wanting to stay NA, I would start with cams! Otherwise a snail is the way to go... After I get some wheels for
My G, I'll be piecing together a rear mount turbo kit... Rear mount is the way to
Go because there isn't enough room in the engine bay for a big snail... Now I will experience more turbo lag but I'm used to it... When I get into boost it's going to be better than sex so the wait will be worth it
If your are wanting noticeable gains and wanting to stay NA, I would start with cams! Otherwise a snail is the way to go... After I get some wheels for
My G, I'll be piecing together a rear mount turbo kit... Rear mount is the way to
Go because there isn't enough room in the engine bay for a big snail... Now I will experience more turbo lag but I'm used to it... When I get into boost it's going to be better than sex so the wait will be worth it
But your whp seems about right.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 313
Likes: 13
From: Santa Clarita
i stand corrected sir...but i didnt make this stuff up....
Last edited by g35844; Jul 30, 2011 at 11:15 PM.
I have a 60 trim on my 1.6L Civic... I'm not paying a whole gob of money for a manifold to cram a T70 in the engine bay of my G when I can stuff one under the car and use that money for cams/internals/intake mani etc... Just my opinion..
