Hankook v12 gone at 9000 miles?
#17
That's what I used to think. I spoke to a lot of people, especially those who're stanced or just running a lot of camber and they all recommended 0 toe. I have it for several months now and been liking it better.
#18
I drove ttrank's car solo
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
And I drive my girl hard quite often so the tires aren't babied.
#19
So i installed the toe bolt today. I skimped out on this last time during my rear camber kit install. Ergg spent 2 hrs doing it! Planning on installing new tires in the rear and getting an alignment. Hopefully I will get at least 15k out of the rears.
Lone wolf- I moved in 2009 after I graduated. But i use to live in the apartments in between nutwood and yorba linda. Be careful of the area! my integra got stolen and stripped! damn hondas
Lone wolf- I moved in 2009 after I graduated. But i use to live in the apartments in between nutwood and yorba linda. Be careful of the area! my integra got stolen and stripped! damn hondas
#21
I drove ttrank's car solo
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0 toe helps tire wear but negatively affects handling. You can have one or the other but not both. For most G owners, 0 is a good idea, but for those who track or drive their cars hard it's better to have it in the middle of the "recommended" range.
#22
I'm still not 100% convinced, but a friend of mine and I are on a "0 Toe Theory" right now and just seeing how it works out for ourselves instead of just hearing it from others, since that can always vary.
#23
We are still talking about the rear tires yes? 0 toe is not a bad idea. You really have to treat all these camber, toe and caster angles as a balancing act. Also springs and anti-sways bars play a big act upon what alignment angles will be effective.
Positive toe in the back will add stability. Negative toe in the back will add rotation. But you can always balance this all out with the other suspension parts that you guys may have or are looking into getting. But yes certain setting will yield to more tire wear, and in some cases premature tire destruction on the inside of your tire.
Most manufacturers add positive toe in the back, for stability and safety. But that sacrifices the tires. Its up to the driver to make it the way that it will work for him, but you can run 0 toe and still have a very well balanced and good handling machine, and there is not one way to do that.
Positive toe in the back will add stability. Negative toe in the back will add rotation. But you can always balance this all out with the other suspension parts that you guys may have or are looking into getting. But yes certain setting will yield to more tire wear, and in some cases premature tire destruction on the inside of your tire.
Most manufacturers add positive toe in the back, for stability and safety. But that sacrifices the tires. Its up to the driver to make it the way that it will work for him, but you can run 0 toe and still have a very well balanced and good handling machine, and there is not one way to do that.
#24
So i installed the toe bolt today. I skimped out on this last time during my rear camber kit install. Ergg spent 2 hrs doing it! Planning on installing new tires in the rear and getting an alignment. Hopefully I will get at least 15k out of the rears.
Lone wolf- I moved in 2009 after I graduated. But i use to live in the apartments in between nutwood and yorba linda. Be careful of the area! my integra got stolen and stripped! damn hondas
Lone wolf- I moved in 2009 after I graduated. But i use to live in the apartments in between nutwood and yorba linda. Be careful of the area! my integra got stolen and stripped! damn hondas
#25
#26
#27
Registered User
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It just makes more sense to get the camber kit front and rear with the tow bolts than putting out those big $$ for tires once a year. With the camber kits installed and your alignment done right new tires with a UTQG rating around 280 using the recommended 35 psi should last 25K miles possibly more. I had a set of BStones last me 10K miles but the wear rating was 180, I only blame myself for not being aware....live & learn!
Gary
Gary
#28
#29
My new Alignment with new tires.
Since I have about a -2.7 camber what is the best toe number for my car? I was told from the alignment guy that since my alignment is this bad that the 'optimal' toe would be around .12 to compensate for the the tires being negative.
I thought this was absurd since from what I heard on the forums is that closest to a 0 toe is optimal. His reasoning was that if my alignment was negative to the degree of -2.7 with a 0-.05 toe then my inside tires would be gone under 4000miles. Please alignment experts out there, shine some light for me.
Note, my Rear right toe is F'd up because my toe bolt got striped. I will change that before I get a new alignment
#30
We are still talking about the rear tires yes? 0 toe is not a bad idea. You really have to treat all these camber, toe and caster angles as a balancing act. Also springs and anti-sways bars play a big act upon what alignment angles will be effective.
Positive toe in the back will add stability. Negative toe in the back will add rotation. But you can always balance this all out with the other suspension parts that you guys may have or are looking into getting. But yes certain setting will yield to more tire wear, and in some cases premature tire destruction on the inside of your tire.
Most manufacturers add positive toe in the back, for stability and safety. But that sacrifices the tires. Its up to the driver to make it the way that it will work for him, but you can run 0 toe and still have a very well balanced and good handling machine, and there is not one way to do that.
Positive toe in the back will add stability. Negative toe in the back will add rotation. But you can always balance this all out with the other suspension parts that you guys may have or are looking into getting. But yes certain setting will yield to more tire wear, and in some cases premature tire destruction on the inside of your tire.
Most manufacturers add positive toe in the back, for stability and safety. But that sacrifices the tires. Its up to the driver to make it the way that it will work for him, but you can run 0 toe and still have a very well balanced and good handling machine, and there is not one way to do that.
Attachment 145052
My new Alignment with new tires.
Since I have about a -2.7 camber what is the best toe number for my car? I was told from the alignment guy that since my alignment is this bad that the 'optimal' toe would be around .12 to compensate for the the tires being negative.
I thought this was absurd since from what I heard on the forums is that closest to a 0 toe is optimal. His reasoning was that if my alignment was negative to the degree of -2.7 with a 0-.05 toe then my inside tires would be gone under 4000miles. Please alignment experts out there, shine some light for me.
Note, my Rear right toe is F'd up because my toe bolt got striped. I will change that before I get a new alignment
My new Alignment with new tires.
Since I have about a -2.7 camber what is the best toe number for my car? I was told from the alignment guy that since my alignment is this bad that the 'optimal' toe would be around .12 to compensate for the the tires being negative.
I thought this was absurd since from what I heard on the forums is that closest to a 0 toe is optimal. His reasoning was that if my alignment was negative to the degree of -2.7 with a 0-.05 toe then my inside tires would be gone under 4000miles. Please alignment experts out there, shine some light for me.
Note, my Rear right toe is F'd up because my toe bolt got striped. I will change that before I get a new alignment
That used to be my mindset, but again, with more research and spoken to the people who I have, people who have run even -4 camber with 0 toe have great tread wear, as long as you keep an eye on it and flip it accordingly. It shouldn't be premature.
This of course I can't say is PROVEN. But just how I'm going about it right now.