I just had a JWT clutch combo installed coupe of weeks ago, i didnt get the chance to see the mechanic who installed it since its been holidays since then, but thought id ask here before i go see him sometime this week.

i didnt drive my car much, less than 200 miles on it since the install and the clutch already feels great. One small issue is my fifth gear. Going into fifth gear is a challenge now, i have no idea why, its like its not aligned with the rest of the gears, when switching from 4 to 5 i always hit a blank spot, and have to move the shifter like half an inch to the left to go into fifth gear, any idea why?

Not sure if what i said made any sense, thats the best way i can describe it. Heres a picture that might help





I would like to thank Brett at ImportPartsPro who provided me with excellent service and the lowest price shipped to Canada.

Little about the JWT, first drive i almost stalled the car, it felt like i never driven manual before. the clutch was totally different (not in a bad way). Pedal engaging point changed from near end (release) to less than an inch from the bottom when fully pressed. Less than a week later the clutch feels amazing (little stiffer, but dont bother me) the engaging point is a little higher now, id say about 35% off the floor but still same as OEM were its too short of an area, however i got used to it and i dont mind it all anymore. I might buy that pedal NorthernG made and see if its worth the change, shifting gears are like a hit and miss, sometimes very smooth and some other times its hard to get a smooth shift. I think its when I'm not watching myself i get the smoother shift. So i could be an issue with me and not the clutch lol
After waiting about 10 business days for the clutch to get here, i open the box and heres what i get









I called Brett, and less than 15 minutes later he had a new tracking number for me. Almost everyone else i dealt with online, they make you wait and see if UPS would cover them before they send you a new one. Then they charge you shipping again, and some make you pay for shipping the damaged part back to them at your cost. He said throw the damage one in the garbage and wait for the new one. Transaction was like a dream, he was a great help, awesome service, definitely doing business again with him.

Much appreciated

 

My 5th gear feels the exact same way after oem exedy clutch and competition single mass flywheel install

 

Well, the shift pattern shouldn't change with the clutch being changed. .....so not sure on that one

But the contact point of when the clutch engages normally changes.

With a cable drawn clutch, this point is altered by changing the length of the cable (not the case here, but as in a 1994 Nissan Sentra). With a hydraulic clutch setup such as our G35's, the contact point can be altered by adjusting the piston length going to the hydraulic master cylinder.

I like to put it to where you move your foot about 2 inches from the floor and then it starts to grab. This helps allot for accidentally getting a floor mat underneath, etc.

It's important that the driver, when pushing the pedal down, actually is able to fully DISengage the clutch from the assembly. Sadly many mechanics seem to focus solely only on the ENGagement point and not the disengaging as well.

 

I took it back, he looked at it and said "guide" plate was not sitting properly (sits inside the car under the shifter)? so he adjusted it and its much better now. But now sixth gear doesn't feel as smooth anymore, I find it hard to go into sixth gear when i'm in neutral, if i'm in five going into six it goes in no problem, i might take it back again.

Other issue is the distance/play in the shifter from the the center to the left is alot more than the distance from center to right. So if i'm sitting between 3-4 and moving to 1-2 i have a good amount of room/play. But the distance between 3-4 to 5-6 is way too short, like less than .25 of an inch

Other than that it drives fine.


dumb question, how do i make sure its fully disengaging?

 

Whoa! This is the same issue I had after my clutch was replaced. I just learned to deal with it, is it a big job to get this corrected? I had my clutch and flywheel replaced last summer and I doubt the shop will be willing to fix it after this much time has past.

 

To check for disengagement, take the drive wheels off the ground......i.e. jack the car up in the back.

1. Start car
2. Put car in first gear
3. Push clutch pedal to the floor

if the wheels don't stop spinning.............the clutch is not disengaging......this is bad

4. While in first, let the pedal all the way out.............if the pressure doesn't seem to change at the top of the pedal movement, i.e. it doesn't seem to release some tension... then your clutch is not fully engaging............this is bad

 

Within 20 minutes he called me and told me the car was fixed. If you want more details PM and i'll see if i can get more accurate info from him



awesome info! i'll make sure to get it checked soon, even though it feels perfectly fine.