Just in case anyone needs a new battery.... You can get one at Advance Auto for a really good price today only using a one-day discount code for 35% off your entire order... I just priced out an Optima 35 redtop for my G35 for $120 shipped.

Use coupon code Friday32 at the checkout for the discount to bring it to $120, and save even more if you use a rebate website like Ebates.com to get an extra 6% off via online rebate. Total after everything is about $114 not including taxes, if your state has sales tax. That's about $60 off the normal price for these batteries.

I'm going to order one right now for my car since my OEM 2004 Battery should be just about completely dead once spring gets here.

 

No I'm not a doctor or psychiatrist. It's "you're". Not "your". I did read what you discussed above. Makes little difference. The ECU needs to be reset to change any parameters such as you're alluding to. Simply swapping out the battery only improves CCA to the starter, period. After the engine is started, the alternator provides power for spark, ECU, TCU, everything else. The battery has nothing to do with anything getting a "better" signal or voltage or whatever you want to throw out there. If those are low then the regulator inside the alternator is failing and you'll need another alternator. This isn't rocket surgery.

 

lol rocket surgery. thats a new one!

 

Battery has nothing to due with power...a battery is only used for starting, once the engine reaches stable rpm, alternator takes the system load.

 

Gau and crazyhotel, I think there are a couple of things you guys aren't getting. One being that I know what a battery is for lol, but thanks for the explanation. Keep in mind that electrical circuits can suffer from electrical noise or interference. Some electronics are more sensitive to it than others. A good ground is a key element in eliminating any noise and maintaining stability. The battery being part of the circuit... well you get the point. Ok maybe you don't.
I'm just sharing my story. Take it as you will.

 

If the ground (in the battery) was bad, you would get no start. Again, for the last time, the battery has nothing to do with noise in a circuit after it's started. That's what all the relays in the system are for. You got a new battery. It starts better. I get it. But for it to get "power" back from simply changing the battery is purely false. Resetting the ECU will set it back to learning how you drive. It might appear that the car has more life but that is the effect of the ECU losing power (from the battery swap) and having to reset all of it's parameters.

Glad you like the new battery. Go enjoy your car now.

 

This is completely wrong on all modern cars. Modern cars needs the battery. Modern cars have alternators that produce ac power and is converted to dc power to charge the battery.

All the components in a modern car system runs on dc power from the ecu, abs, head lights, stereo, starter and tcu.

In theory, you can actually live without the alternator if you have fully charged battery, your car will run and drive until it runs out of power. Where as if you had no battery the car would not run at all.

I did this with my mercedes when my alternator died. I just recharged the battery at autozone and it gave me about 1hr worth of driving per charge. Until my alternator came in to install.

Early model cars came with power generators that power the car when in motion. This was thrown out since it became inefficient as cars became more advanced and required more electrical power to operate.

 

You guys are ****ing amazing...especially when it comes to your knowledge about what a battery does...We tried to explain, but since you guys would like to go against electrical physics...continue with your worthless views on how an electrical system on a car operates.

 

Just google how modern automotive electrics work and difference between ac and dc power.

 

I dont need to use google. I work on this **** for a living. I am educated on the subject and do not need to refer to google because I do not lack knowledge in that area...move along now

 

Look, I won't insult you on what you do for a living, but maybe you should brush up on your electronics a little bit.
Along with what I've already mentioned, you do know that a bad battery can drain or ruin an alternator?... Just chew on that for a minute.

No one is on here literally saying that a battery is going to net you a power increase, but instead the role that it may have played in my case. Just ironic that after I replaced it I felt such an increase.
I don't believe it was my ECU being reset either, because I've reset it several times before in the past after each install of a part (spacer, tune, etc.). This is something new.
Let's keep the conversation constructive.

 

You guys are a lost cause... I am losing hope in this forum...

 

Wow, that was way in left field. You're looking at this a$$ backwards. The reason you had to recharge the battery to get going again was because the alternator failed. You can still run a car on a battery, but it will die quickly as it's doing all the work. That's why the battery and the alternator work TOGETHER. OP is saying because he replaced a BAD battery not a BAD alternator, his car performs better. Nice try. A for effort.

The reason an alternator fails quickly if a bad battery isn't replaced as soon as you know it's bad is because the alternator ends up doing all the work. It's trying to charge the battery (that won't take a charge) so it heats up the internals since all that power has nowhere to go. Overheats - bam - premature failure.

Turn key to on - dash lights come on (from battery)
Turn key to start - closes starter circuit. Amperage from the battery cranks everything.
Let go of key - RELAYS change circuit path to allow for the alternator that's now spinning making AC power (converted to DC internally) to run the ECU, TCU, radio, etc as it's also slowly recharging the lost power taken from the battery to start the motor. Sure it's more complicated than that with modern cars. But the basic circuit is the same notwithstanding all the extra relays and such that stabilize and improve the performance of cars nowadays.

How's that for constructive?

You all can spin this any way you want but you can't make me think that simply changing the battery made your car "more powerful". I just put a new battery in my car 2 or 3 months ago. Other than it being able to start faster, nothing else showed improvement.

Side note, although it's HIGHLY discouraged to ever do this to modern cars with ECU's and such, after starting a car, you can disconnect the battery and the car (not just the engine) will continue to function. The reason it's bad is the battery circuit plays a part in the overall circuit ground. Without it being properly grounded, the ECU can burn up. One reason why that old line of troubleshooting alternator vs. bad battery can't be done to modern cars.

 

That was pretty constructive. Thanks.

Remember, I noticed this as soon as I replaced it (the next day when I decided to get on it). It's been almost two weeks now and the difference is still there. It honestly surprised me too, which is the whole reason I decided to post up.. But the more I thought about it the more it made sense...

Try to understand the importance of a "good" ground connection.
Good and Bad being relative to operating efficiency of the equipment/components in the circuit and voltage/current distribution. You can certainly run equipment with a "bad" ground. No question. But that same equipment will always run better when properly grounded. Not all voltage is equal. Noise, Dips, Spikes, etc. can play havoc on electronic performance. Take measurements with an oscilloscope sometime and you’ll see what I mean.

Question though. How can you understand that the battery is in the overall circuit ground (as you stated above), yet not believe the battery could play culprit in a bad ground connection?
But you’re right; the battery that won’t charge probably was overworking the alternator, which would in turn cause surges, dips and overheating. Even if minor that’s just unstable operation from an electronic perspective.

Just think of it as someone giving you directions. The more clear and concise those directions are, chances are the better you would be able to do your job.. This is no different.
Our ECUs and TCUs being the speedy precise one hundred calculations a micro second gadgets that they are require a full and clean signal to do all the wonderful things they do.. Optimally that is.

So why is this so hard to believe? This ain’t rocket surgery or nothin'.

 

You can't use my line! That's my line!!!

I'm picking up what you're putting down, but I still feel it's a placebo effect. I too, just put a new battery in my car. In fact, I just replaced batteries in both of my vehicles. Neither of which resulted in this side effect. Both batteries were at the point they would not turn the car over without a jump. I luckily have a trickle charger that can switch to jump start. I have a grounding kit in the G; none in the Outlook. I had the battery disconnected for the same amount of time relatively. I didn't do any ECU resets on either car. Both acted no different vs. before and after, except for a faster starting motor.

Dumb luck for you, I guess.