Service rep told me...
s4m222.... "maybe because it is thinner " what ????
Synth IS NOT THINNER 5/30 synth is the same as 5/30 standard as far as how thin/thick it is. That is the whole point of viscosity ratings. At temp, the viscosity is 30 wieght....
Most importantly, standard oil begins to break down(show significant variation in viscosity) at 1000 miles, synth virtually never becomes unstable from the standpoint of viscosity. It simply becomes dirty.
I also don't know where "wait till 15 or 20k miles" that is just nuts. The whole point of synth is to prevent wear. After Basic break in (1.5 - 3k) synth is what you want, frankly you'd be a fool not to use it as far as I am concerned. Particullary in a car you drive hard.
The diff or manual tranny, Redline synth is a great way to go.
The AT - Absolutely ONLY use the factory stuff, this is very dependant on design, seal type, pressure, heat, etc.
Synth IS NOT THINNER 5/30 synth is the same as 5/30 standard as far as how thin/thick it is. That is the whole point of viscosity ratings. At temp, the viscosity is 30 wieght....
Most importantly, standard oil begins to break down(show significant variation in viscosity) at 1000 miles, synth virtually never becomes unstable from the standpoint of viscosity. It simply becomes dirty.
I also don't know where "wait till 15 or 20k miles" that is just nuts. The whole point of synth is to prevent wear. After Basic break in (1.5 - 3k) synth is what you want, frankly you'd be a fool not to use it as far as I am concerned. Particullary in a car you drive hard.
The diff or manual tranny, Redline synth is a great way to go.
The AT - Absolutely ONLY use the factory stuff, this is very dependant on design, seal type, pressure, heat, etc.
Actually there is a fairly wide range within the viscosity rating. There are very thin 30wts like M1 5w30 and thick ones like German Castrol 0w30. I think some people get oil consumption because they use the very thin M1 oil and expect it to protect their engine while they redline all the time (who doesn't like to do that?
) This engine needs a ACEA A3 approved oil (HT/HS of 3.5 or higher) like GC or M1 0w40 to get low wear, and I will do UOA's on both these oils in my car to make sure. After all, it produces 280hp so those bearings need an oil with a nice HTHS.
) This engine needs a ACEA A3 approved oil (HT/HS of 3.5 or higher) like GC or M1 0w40 to get low wear, and I will do UOA's on both these oils in my car to make sure. After all, it produces 280hp so those bearings need an oil with a nice HTHS.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
speedeezx;
You can use any warrantee aproved product you want.
Synthetics (check brand) are approved for the motor.
IJMO....
But I don't believe synth uses more oil "because it's thinner".
The viscosity is the same whether it's dino or synth.
& synth has been proven to maintain it's viscosity better than dino, when things heat up.
I think you will use a little more synth than dino for the same reason that it performs better. It clings to surfaces better, so it stands to reason that some residual film will remain behind on the cylinder walls during the combustion stroke.
You can use any warrantee aproved product you want.
Synthetics (check brand) are approved for the motor.
IJMO....
But I don't believe synth uses more oil "because it's thinner".
The viscosity is the same whether it's dino or synth.
& synth has been proven to maintain it's viscosity better than dino, when things heat up.
I think you will use a little more synth than dino for the same reason that it performs better. It clings to surfaces better, so it stands to reason that some residual film will remain behind on the cylinder walls during the combustion stroke.
I get FREE LIFETIME OIL CHANGES.....but, they only do it every 3500/miles w/ the OEM oil & filter....I'm gonna switch it over to synthetic on the next oil change(11K)...All I do is, bring in my own 5qt Mobil1 and they do the rest for FREE.... nothing beats that...
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
Originally Posted by djskyy
....All I do is, bring in my own 5qt Mobil1 and they do the rest for FREE.... nothing beats that... 

I do the same, except I use Amsoil, but no freebie service.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
Originally Posted by G35Tuning
damn how did you score free oil changes...your either very lucky or your great at negotiating...
Yah but he didn't tell us that he paid $500 for a full size spare.
I switched to synthetic at the first oil change at 3750 miles. My mechanic (he works exclusively on Nissans) recommended me to do so, and I wanted to do it anyway. I don't know if my car is burning oil since it's so dang hard to remove and read the dipstick! Everytime I pull it out, there's oil all over the thing. I change the oil again at 10000 miles, and the next scheduled change is at 18000. My car is running fine. This mechanic is a lot closer and a lot less expensive than the dealership. Just my .02 on this discussion.
What about Royal Purple and Wix filters?
I've heard a lot of people being loyal to RP, but I don't see it get mentioned much here.
Also, I've been doing some of my own research and from what I can see, Wix oil filters are supposed to be one of the best if not the best. Any experiences with either of those products?
thanks
Also, I've been doing some of my own research and from what I can see, Wix oil filters are supposed to be one of the best if not the best. Any experiences with either of those products?
thanks
I am currently using the NAPA Gold/Wix filter and I don't know if it's my mind but my temp gauge reads slightly lower than before. It's nice to know the filter is high quality, though, as Wix makes good filters with a nice compromise between flow and filtering.



