I was wondering if anyone has recommendations on which rotors works best for the street? I have an 03 G35 coupe with Brembo's. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

I have cross drilled and slotted.. Only real difference if you track the car.. it helps with brake fade.. which helps removed the heat build up faster, but if you are just doing normal driving it's all about ya taste in looks

 

Do some research around, the general consensus is that neither of these are really ideal for street use. Normal blank rotors are more than enough for your street needs, and in fact some disperse heat even well enough for track use. If you decide to buy either it is really only for looks. Also beware cross drilled, people have had problems with the drilling reducing the strength of the rotor and causing cracking.

 

I would only get slotted. To many problems w/ the drilled.

 

+1

Blanks should be more than enough for street use, and I have heard a few instances where the rotors have cracked when they have been drilled.

 

I would only get slotted or blanks also.. I opted to go with blanks when i replaced my rotors just because the price difference really isn't warranted unless you're doing some track time imo.

 

Slotted, and that's it. Or blanks.

Trust me. I had CD/S rotors on my Maxima, and when it came time to turn them, every shop I went to wouldn't touch them. I finally only got them turned because a buddy did me a favor. Cross-drilled rotors eat up the bit on a lathe.

 

My blank rotors arent good enough for much besides normal driving. If i do spirited driving in the hills they fade within minutes. If i were to brake 2-3 times at high speeds they fade immediately. I would go with slotted rotors.

 

Are you sure its because of the rotors? pads could be the cause of your brake fade too. I haven't had any problems with fade in my blanks, but I only drive the occasional twisty back road and never do much high speed braking.

 

Slotted and Drilled are mostly just for looks, slotted can help clean the pads and help with water evacuation.

Best performance will be with a Blank Rotor. Check F1 they dont use any of that.


http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/brakecdrill.html

 

Lol youre going to compare the brakes on an F1 car to a normal car? Normal cars dont have ceramic carbon brakes or sophisticated cooling ducts and fairings. F1 cars weigh a 1/3 of a normal car as well.

My friends and I race all kinds of cars and hard braking is a requirement for going fast. Like i said, if youre going to do spirited driving like me and brake hard then you probably want slotted at least. My buddy who races karts just changed his WRX brakes from normal rotors to slotted and the difference is amazing. He brakes amazingly hard though and for him its necessary. If you dont brake hard or often then normal rotors are fine though.

Every production car to recently break Nurburgring lap records uses drilled rotors ZR1, ACR, GT-R.

 

I edited my post, put in a link for reading. Slotted rotors do have purpose. Drilled do not other than for looks and weight.Weight savings is minimal and you loose performance. Nothing to do with cooling.

 

I just did a complete brake upgrade on my G. Since I already had the akebono brakes, I changed the pads and rotors along with doing a complete brake fluid flush.

Here's my ¢.02:

1. Blank rotors are good for speed limit driving only pretty much. Any spirited driving will most certainly get you brake fade. Our cars are heavy and that messes with the friction coefficient of the pads. Our cars should have come with at least front slotted rotors....preferably slotted all around. I decided to go with Stoptech slotted/drilled rotors. And I must say they have been nothing short of spectacular.
2. A braking system is only as strong as its weakest link. If you have crappy pads, no amount of slotted/drilled rotors are going to matter. So get good pads like hawk, EBC, Stoptech, project MU..etc. I went with hawk HPS.
3. Probably the most overlooked component of a brake job is the brake fluid. While most brake fluids from your local gas station will work, if it heats up too much your pedal will feel like you're walking on a sponge. High temp fluid is just as important as good pads. I changed my fluid to amsoil high temp/pressure and it completely changed the way my pedal feels.
4. In regards to the "problems" with drilled rotors, I'm sure they are referring to the cracking people have expierenced. The cracking happens when the rotor drill holes are too close together and this practice makes them weak. So be mindful of what kind of pattern you get if going with drilled rotors. I haven't had nor have heard any problems with slotted/drilled in the pattern I have gone with.
5. SS brake lines are only beneficial if the car is being tracked IMO...but they won't hurt if put on.
6. The most important thing you have to do when doing a brake job is bleed the brakes properly and bed your pads correctly. Not doing either one of these can be disastrous.

I have had this set up for approximately 700miles or so. I have had the pleasure of doing some VERY spirited driving since doing the brake job and I have received absolutely ZERO fade with the setup I have. And I am very pleased with it so far.


Now, if one REALLY wants blank rotors, they can be purchased with directional vents. Meaning the fins between the rotor surfaces look like \ \ \ \ \ \ not your typical. | | | | |. This aides in cooling of the surface, but again I personally wouldn't go with blank rotors for our cars.


Anyway, this is all justmy opinion.

 

For all G35s Blanks will give you the best performance. Fade is from heat. Switching to a drilled or slotted rotor to solve fade is ill advised, since they remove material they will cause fade earlier its simple physics, if you experience fade regardless of the rotor get better pads and or fluid.

Blanks are just fine for the casual auto x or spirited driving, if you are tracking you would have different pads and rotors meant for that.

Check out the new Centric 125 rotors they have directional vanes, they do not cost that much more than the Centric 120s

 

Best rotors you can get for your brembos are slotted, and if you are willing to spend the extra cash, get the two-piece to remove some of the centrifugal weight impact.

Do not get drilled. They look cool but they have a negative effect by their decreased durability, and the cooling impacts aren't proven.


Edit: Forgot to mention DOT4 fluid. If you hit the track, it is ideal to change the fluid as once it overheats, the properties change and its no longer as effective.
SS lines will be beneficial as they will not expand under extended heavy use as it might happen with the rubber lines, and good pads are crucial. I am running Project Mus and they are my favorite so far (have gone thru OEM, Hawk HPS, others), they grab very well while producing minimal brake dust.