what to drop on?!
I sound like a broken record....that's how we use to listen to music!
Remember what I posted? Someone is always telling our members you don't need adjustable a-arms (camber kit) when you lower your coupe....that's just so wrong! Install the springs, get an alignment and ask the tech how low it will be before you need new tires. You can do silly **** like flopping your tires but you still won't get good mileage from your tires without doing the job right....Gary
Haha nope, visual inspection after a wheel play test. I'll keep that in mind next time I lift it.
That's the thing, everything is OEM still on my G. The previous (and single) owner said his front tires always did this. I've also read on here that it's common, but I assumed there'd be a fix.
I did find an article describing the flaws in the 04-06 compression rod bushings, I assume they're press in like a ball joint? And since the OEM bushings seem to be crapping the bed, is there a preferred brand on this forum? I've used TRW/Moog on my previous cars without issue, but I'd still like to hear your opinions.
Sorry for threadjacking, OP.
That's the thing, everything is OEM still on my G. The previous (and single) owner said his front tires always did this. I've also read on here that it's common, but I assumed there'd be a fix.
I did find an article describing the flaws in the 04-06 compression rod bushings, I assume they're press in like a ball joint? And since the OEM bushings seem to be crapping the bed, is there a preferred brand on this forum? I've used TRW/Moog on my previous cars without issue, but I'd still like to hear your opinions.
Sorry for threadjacking, OP.
Yes, they're press-in. If you have a ten-ton press, it just takes a little ingenuity to get them pressed in and out. My buddy and I did it in about an hour.
Check out Whiteline's bushings. They're expensive, but they're urethane and completely and totally worth the money.
Remember what I posted? Someone is always telling our members you don't need adjustable a-arms (camber kit) when you lower your coupe....that's just so wrong! Install the springs, get an alignment and ask the tech how low it will be before you need new tires. You can do silly **** like flopping your tires but you still won't get good mileage from your tires without doing the job right....Gary
I'm running -1.5 up front and -2.0* in the rear of my car. Guess what? No camber wear at all in the rear, and minimal up front.
I ran -2.5* with no issues when I had coilovers on my Maxima. I still managed to get 40,000 out of a set of Pirelli P Zeroes.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; Aug 4, 2012 at 11:56 AM.
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You don't. You don't.
I'll say it one more time. You don't.
I'm running -1.5 up front and -2.0* in the rear of my car. Guess what? No camber wear at all in the rear, and minimal up front.
I ran -2.5* with no issues when I had coilovers on my Maxima. I still managed to get 40,000 out of a set of Pirelli P Zeroes.
You don't. You don't.
I'll say it one more time. You don't.
I'm running -1.5 up front and -2.0* in the rear of my car. Guess what? No camber wear at all in the rear, and minimal up front.
I ran -2.5* with no issues when I had coilovers on my Maxima. I still managed to get 40,000 out of a set of Pirelli P Zeroes.
OP, best thing to do is drop the car then have an alignment shop see if it can be brought back to specs. That will tell you if a camber kit is required.
Not all cars react the same when lowered and not all alignment shops are good. Just because your included in the 10% that have managed without wear, doesn't mean everyone else will be lucky. Which is why you shouldn't be saying they aren't required. Keep in mind driving habits have a major effect on tire wear also.
OP, best thing to do is drop the car then have an alignment shop see if it can be brought back to specs. That will tell you if a camber kit is required.
OP, best thing to do is drop the car then have an alignment shop see if it can be brought back to specs. That will tell you if a camber kit is required.
IF you want to be back to OE specs exactly, obviously you'll need a camber kit up front, since factory camber is not adjustable. It's a matter of personal tastes.
For me, I like having a little negative camber in the front. It makes the car grip better at 70MPH on the highway and when having to do abrupt lane changes.

Don't even talk to me about driving habits. I'm a pretty aggressive driver. Not an *******, by any means, but I do drive pretty spirited when I'm out and about.
^When I first dropped on S-techs, my fronts were gone fairly quickly while the rears had minimal wear. I could have had a bad alignment done at the time but thats my experience, as you can see opposite of what most will say. I've seen too many variations on the subject with any spring which is why I don't say camber kits are required anymore, its best to just tell people their alignment will be the deciding factor.
Fair enough. I'll change my input from you don't to you might not. 
Were you on Z or G S.Techs?
I'm just saying...to say that you absolutely DO need front A-arms, a part that's not exactly cheap, is kind of much. I'd hate to pay $350 for a set of Kinetix arms, and find out that I'd only picked up a degree or so of camber in my drop.

Were you on Z or G S.Techs?
I'm just saying...to say that you absolutely DO need front A-arms, a part that's not exactly cheap, is kind of much. I'd hate to pay $350 for a set of Kinetix arms, and find out that I'd only picked up a degree or so of camber in my drop.
^I had the G S-techs. As for the A-arms, there's a reason why SPL and SPC are the only two that are recommended, they offer good positive camber and are known for getting the job done.
Last edited by herrschaft; Aug 4, 2012 at 01:01 PM.
I've never heard of any issues with the Kinetix. 
If anything, I've heard they're just as good as SPC. Only thing that needs to be done is creating some kind of dust boot to go over the top of the ball joint.

If anything, I've heard they're just as good as SPC. Only thing that needs to be done is creating some kind of dust boot to go over the top of the ball joint.
They only adjust for +1.5 degrees but thats fine for a mild drop. Personally, I think they look flimsy as hell but I've never dealt with those so I can't comment on them quality wise.
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