I hate to create another thread for this but I cannot find any answers anywhere and I am about to lose the garage I've been working in. I really don't want to bring it to a dealer so any advice would be appreciated.

I had accidentally air locked my clutch master cylinder while bleeding my clutch to the extent that I wasn't able to bleed it by just pumping the clutch pedal and opening the bleeder screw.

I rented a vacuum bleeder which allowed for air to finally be bled out of the system, but there seems too be way to much air coming out and when I close the bleeder screw I only feel pressure in the clutch pedal right before it reaches the floor. I have pumped well over a liter of fluid through the lines and over 50% of what comes out of the bleeder screw is air so I'd imagine over a liter of air has came out of the bleeder screw. I have ensured that my bleeder kit is hooked up well so I know the air isn't coming in through there. Does anyone know what this could be? Do our clutch components even have the capacity to carry around a litre of fluids?

Thanks

 

Are you using a bleeder kit, with the clear hose and one end submerged in an overflow cup? Are you keeping the reservoir FULL as you are bleeding?

Checking the FSM, the vacuum bleeder won't work. Here's the factory recommended procedure:

CLUTCH FLUID Bleeding
CAUTION:
Monitor fluid level in reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty.
Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the affected area with water.

NOTE:
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power bleeder will not purge all the air from the system.

1. Fill master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid.
2. Connect a transparent vinyl hose to air bleeder.
3. Depress clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold it.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder.
5. Close air bleeder.
6. Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds.
7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in brake fluid.
8. Tighten air bleeder to the specified torque.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post that Lost. Here is the bleeder I'm using: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg. You attach a hose running from the bleeder screw to the container, as well as a hose connecting the vacuum to the container. When vacuum is applied the fluid is caught in the container.

I understand that vacuum bleeding could leave some air bubbles, but there is a constant flow of air exiting the system. I was planning on using Nissans method when air bubbles could no longer be draw out using the vacuum bleeder.

Thanks

 

If anyone coming across this is experiencing this issue I had to actually replace my master cylinder because the seals had broken due to air locking it