G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

transmission/engine mounts

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-26-2013, 03:20 AM
livinglegend's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 287
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
transmission/engine mounts

The other day I ordered the urethane transmission mount from Z1, and got to thinking about whether I should address the engine mounts as well. I have always done motor/tranny mounts at the same time with my cars, not out of principal but just because I happened to buy both sets at the same time, and the cars had considerably more miles through the mounts.

Maybe I'm being paranoid because at 70k miles the OE engine mounts are still in very good shape. I just dont want to put too much unnecessary stress through the engine/transmission if I dont have to by locking down the tranny and leaving the engine sitting on the OE mounts. But its only a urethane mount so its not too ridiculous. Ive had solid alum engine/tranny mounts before and im glad I did those together because it probably would have cracked the bell housing or something if I didnt....

Are our engine mounts prone to wear out prematurely at all or are they pretty good in the long run. Havent heard much about it and all the threads that came up in the search were just FS threads.

Thanks in advance guys/gals.
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2013, 08:02 AM
herrschaft's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Coast
Posts: 7,738
Received 770 Likes on 604 Posts
I haven't seen very many cases of mounts going bad so I doubt its a common issue. With 83K miles on the chassis and being FI for the past 3 years, I haven't had any issues with those mounts.
 
  #3  
Old 07-26-2013, 05:38 PM
seacorb's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 11
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have 100k and I'm pretty sure my engine mounts are shot. She idles at a perfect 750, but I can still feel my cabin vibrating/shaking more than it should when I'm stopped. I live in Atlanta though and its practically a constant 90 degrees with around 100% humidity in the summer so that might take a toll on the mounts over time. Damned urban rainforest!

Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
 

Last edited by seacorb; 07-26-2013 at 05:45 PM.
  #4  
Old 07-26-2013, 08:24 PM
herrschaft's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Coast
Posts: 7,738
Received 770 Likes on 604 Posts
^Cold starts or warm starts will not affect the mounts. Keep in mind that a cold start will just about always feel more "violent". With the hood up, observe the engine movement when you hit the gas. You should be able to tell if your mounts are shot.
 

Last edited by herrschaft; 07-26-2013 at 08:28 PM.
  #5  
Old 07-27-2013, 02:25 AM
JKL1031's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,987
Received 109 Likes on 99 Posts
engine is idling higher when cold. so rev and drive transition has more lash.
 
  #6  
Old 07-27-2013, 11:00 AM
livinglegend's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 287
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Originally Posted by seacorb
I have 100k and I'm pretty sure my engine mounts are shot. She idles at a perfect 750, but I can still feel my cabin vibrating/shaking more than it should when I'm stopped. I live in Atlanta though and its practically a constant 90 degrees with around 100% humidity in the summer so that might take a toll on the mounts over time. Damned urban rainforest!

Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
as said, your idle RPM when cold is a little higher than when the car is warmed up, but even after the car has warmed up you may still notice it. The transmission fluid is not up to temperature yet and is thick and increases line pressure a bit. An easy way to get the transmission up to temp faster is to put the car in Neutral (and set the parking brake obviously) while the car warms up. When the car is in Neutral the fluid is re-routed to circulate through the transmission instead of just being "bypassed" like when the car is in Park.
 
The following 2 users liked this post by livinglegend:
pickrice (03-08-2015), seacorb (07-28-2013)
  #7  
Old 07-27-2013, 11:03 AM
livinglegend's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 287
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
That said I guess im not going to worry about the engine mounts. If they start to show some excessive movement or vibration I will worry about it but they are very stable as of right now. I am however very excited for the Z1 tranny mount. I dont know how many of you have played around with urethane and solid engine/tranny mounts but it makes a world of difference. Every car I have owned I have upgraded to poly or solid engine/tranny mounts and its like driving a different car. the on/off response is sharp, the power comes on firm and consistent, the shifts are crisp and precise. It really is by far one of my favorite things to modify on any car. Hopefully in the near future I will be addressing the differential mounts on the G as well.
 
  #8  
Old 07-28-2013, 05:24 AM
seacorb's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 11
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by livinglegend
as said, your idle RPM when cold is a little higher than when the car is warmed up, but even after the car has warmed up you may still notice it. The transmission fluid is not up to temperature yet and is thick and increases line pressure a bit. An easy way to get the transmission up to temp faster is to put the car in Neutral (and set the parking brake obviously) while the car warms up. When the car is in Neutral the fluid is re-routed to circulate through the transmission instead of just being "bypassed" like when the car is in Park.
That makes perfect sense. There any way around this besides letting my car warm up? Drain/fill tranny fluid? Bought car with 90k and its at 100k, don't know if it had ever been changed before but I can tell the car has been babied. It's pretty annoying. I've never felt a car 'jolt' like that upon gear change. It's such a violent jerk that I'm pretty sure it can be seen from outside of the car and not just felt. When it's warmed up it's not noticeable, it shifts perfectly. Keep in mind this is only when shifting into D or R, not up or downshifts. I also forgot to mention it's a 5AT. And sorry if I hijacked your thread lol
 

Last edited by seacorb; 07-28-2013 at 05:34 AM.
  #9  
Old 07-28-2013, 05:08 PM
livinglegend's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 287
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Nah its fine i dont really need this thread anymore. ha

I would start with just changing out the fluid with some new quality fluid and go from there. If it shifts fine while you're driving then I wouldnt worry about it at all. When the tranny is cold crisp shifts into D or R are typical, but only to a degree. If its shifting really hard when you put it in R or D then maybe check the TCU for any pending codes. If the TCU senses any sort of problems with the solenoids and such it will bump up line pressure in the valve body to compensate for a possible failing solenoid and prevent slipping.

Does it shift hard into R and D once the transmission has been warmed up and driven? or just on cold starts?
 
  #10  
Old 07-29-2013, 03:25 PM
seacorb's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 11
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
just cold starts. once it is running temp D and R are smooth as butter. I seem to remember a similar problem with my 330i bmw, except it would do the same thing shifting between gears not just D or R. It would knock forward between every gear, regardless of the temp, and was just as violent and noticeable. shop said it was my 'transmission computer' lol and replaced it.
 

Last edited by seacorb; 07-29-2013 at 03:29 PM.
  #11  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:29 PM
pughdxk's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You should be able to tell if your mounts are shot.
 
  #12  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:36 PM
livinglegend's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 287
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
They're not shot, not even close. Wasnt even asking how to tell if they were shot... Just asking about the longevity of the engine mounts and what they will put up with. Mine are just fine as of now.
 
  #13  
Old 07-30-2013, 11:08 PM
herrschaft's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Coast
Posts: 7,738
Received 770 Likes on 604 Posts
^Congratulations, you just replied to spam
 
  #14  
Old 07-31-2013, 02:33 AM
livinglegend's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 287
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Oh did I? Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between the normal jack-assery...
 
  #15  
Old 07-27-2014, 05:23 AM
socalg35x's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 94
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
5AT hard shift R to D

Originally Posted by seacorb
I have 100k and I'm pretty sure my engine mounts are shot. She idles at a perfect 750, but I can still feel my cabin vibrating/shaking more than it should when I'm stopped. I live in Atlanta though and its practically a constant 90 degrees with around 100% humidity in the summer so that might take a toll on the mounts over time. Damned urban rainforest!

Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
Hi,

Do u still have this problem on ur 5AT?
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Claudiu
V36 Brakes, Suspension, Wheels & Tires
3
03-10-2018 11:38 AM
sales@czp
Suspension-Vendor
26
11-06-2017 03:04 PM
suby01
Not G35 Related
3
05-25-2016 03:07 PM
Claudiu
G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08
0
09-26-2015 01:04 PM
Claudiu
Brakes & Suspension
0
09-24-2015 01:12 PM



You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: transmission/engine mounts



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:55 AM.