transmission/engine mounts
#1
transmission/engine mounts
The other day I ordered the urethane transmission mount from Z1, and got to thinking about whether I should address the engine mounts as well. I have always done motor/tranny mounts at the same time with my cars, not out of principal but just because I happened to buy both sets at the same time, and the cars had considerably more miles through the mounts.
Maybe I'm being paranoid because at 70k miles the OE engine mounts are still in very good shape. I just dont want to put too much unnecessary stress through the engine/transmission if I dont have to by locking down the tranny and leaving the engine sitting on the OE mounts. But its only a urethane mount so its not too ridiculous. Ive had solid alum engine/tranny mounts before and im glad I did those together because it probably would have cracked the bell housing or something if I didnt....
Are our engine mounts prone to wear out prematurely at all or are they pretty good in the long run. Havent heard much about it and all the threads that came up in the search were just FS threads.
Thanks in advance guys/gals.
Maybe I'm being paranoid because at 70k miles the OE engine mounts are still in very good shape. I just dont want to put too much unnecessary stress through the engine/transmission if I dont have to by locking down the tranny and leaving the engine sitting on the OE mounts. But its only a urethane mount so its not too ridiculous. Ive had solid alum engine/tranny mounts before and im glad I did those together because it probably would have cracked the bell housing or something if I didnt....
Are our engine mounts prone to wear out prematurely at all or are they pretty good in the long run. Havent heard much about it and all the threads that came up in the search were just FS threads.
Thanks in advance guys/gals.
#3
I have 100k and I'm pretty sure my engine mounts are shot. She idles at a perfect 750, but I can still feel my cabin vibrating/shaking more than it should when I'm stopped. I live in Atlanta though and its practically a constant 90 degrees with around 100% humidity in the summer so that might take a toll on the mounts over time. Damned urban rainforest!
Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
Last edited by seacorb; 07-26-2013 at 05:45 PM.
#4
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iTrader: (18)
^Cold starts or warm starts will not affect the mounts. Keep in mind that a cold start will just about always feel more "violent". With the hood up, observe the engine movement when you hit the gas. You should be able to tell if your mounts are shot.
Last edited by herrschaft; 07-26-2013 at 08:28 PM.
#6
I have 100k and I'm pretty sure my engine mounts are shot. She idles at a perfect 750, but I can still feel my cabin vibrating/shaking more than it should when I'm stopped. I live in Atlanta though and its practically a constant 90 degrees with around 100% humidity in the summer so that might take a toll on the mounts over time. Damned urban rainforest!
Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
#7
That said I guess im not going to worry about the engine mounts. If they start to show some excessive movement or vibration I will worry about it but they are very stable as of right now. I am however very excited for the Z1 tranny mount. I dont know how many of you have played around with urethane and solid engine/tranny mounts but it makes a world of difference. Every car I have owned I have upgraded to poly or solid engine/tranny mounts and its like driving a different car. the on/off response is sharp, the power comes on firm and consistent, the shifts are crisp and precise. It really is by far one of my favorite things to modify on any car. Hopefully in the near future I will be addressing the differential mounts on the G as well.
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#8
as said, your idle RPM when cold is a little higher than when the car is warmed up, but even after the car has warmed up you may still notice it. The transmission fluid is not up to temperature yet and is thick and increases line pressure a bit. An easy way to get the transmission up to temp faster is to put the car in Neutral (and set the parking brake obviously) while the car warms up. When the car is in Neutral the fluid is re-routed to circulate through the transmission instead of just being "bypassed" like when the car is in Park.
Last edited by seacorb; 07-28-2013 at 05:34 AM.
#9
Nah its fine i dont really need this thread anymore. ha
I would start with just changing out the fluid with some new quality fluid and go from there. If it shifts fine while you're driving then I wouldnt worry about it at all. When the tranny is cold crisp shifts into D or R are typical, but only to a degree. If its shifting really hard when you put it in R or D then maybe check the TCU for any pending codes. If the TCU senses any sort of problems with the solenoids and such it will bump up line pressure in the valve body to compensate for a possible failing solenoid and prevent slipping.
Does it shift hard into R and D once the transmission has been warmed up and driven? or just on cold starts?
I would start with just changing out the fluid with some new quality fluid and go from there. If it shifts fine while you're driving then I wouldnt worry about it at all. When the tranny is cold crisp shifts into D or R are typical, but only to a degree. If its shifting really hard when you put it in R or D then maybe check the TCU for any pending codes. If the TCU senses any sort of problems with the solenoids and such it will bump up line pressure in the valve body to compensate for a possible failing solenoid and prevent slipping.
Does it shift hard into R and D once the transmission has been warmed up and driven? or just on cold starts?
#10
just cold starts. once it is running temp D and R are smooth as butter. I seem to remember a similar problem with my 330i bmw, except it would do the same thing shifting between gears not just D or R. It would knock forward between every gear, regardless of the temp, and was just as violent and noticeable. shop said it was my 'transmission computer' lol and replaced it.
Last edited by seacorb; 07-29-2013 at 03:29 PM.
#12
#15
5AT hard shift R to D
I have 100k and I'm pretty sure my engine mounts are shot. She idles at a perfect 750, but I can still feel my cabin vibrating/shaking more than it should when I'm stopped. I live in Atlanta though and its practically a constant 90 degrees with around 100% humidity in the summer so that might take a toll on the mounts over time. Damned urban rainforest!
Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
Could bad tranny mounts cause 'jumping' when putting in drive or reverse on cold starts? I notice that whenever I start my car and its warmed up my 5AT shifts into D and R real smoothly, but if its a cold start my whole car JOLTS forward or backward for a second. I usually take my foot off the brake right before I put in reverse so it is less noticeable, because if I keep foot on brake and let go after it changes gears from park, it feels like something just literally hit my car. I'm hoping that is just a mount and not signs of my transmission starting to die. I also get similar 'jolts' when I'm in manumatic and I shift in high RPM's, but shifts perfectly smooth when I do it in low RPM's like it does in auto.
Do u still have this problem on ur 5AT?
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