I know that this topic has been discussed before, but there are conflicting responses. I was driving my car when a t a traffic light, it lost power. I turned the car off and started it again. It started but with hesitation and immediately the VDC, SLIP and check engine light came on. I reached home and disconnected the negative terminal of the battery ti reset the ecu. After 10 minutes it reconnected the battery and the lights went away. I checked the oil level and added a quart as it was low. Could it be low oil level?I drove the car for a few miles and the problem went away. I called the Infiniti dealer and they informed me that its the cam position sensors. The also suggested that even if the problem is resolved it will return and the car will stall without any notice. Cost to replace $415. Parts and labor. Has anyone experienced this problem. What i need to know is that if the ecu resets can this problem return without any warning. Should I change the sensors? Do you think its covered under 'infiniti TSB service bulletin recall'? Moreover is the dealer overcharging. I have a 2004 G35 Coupe in impecable condition.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Not covered under TSB. Good luck!

^^^correct. Not covered under tsb but a very easy DIY. (My sister could do it lol). A common problem with the vq.

Can someone please show the location of these sensors in pictures and instructions on how to change them. Do you think autozone has them? Thanks.

check your brakes. Could be your brake fluid is low so you might have some worn brake pads.

There are several DIY threads on how to replace the cam sensors on here, just look around. And I wouldn't recommend getting aftermarket sensors, a lot of our members have had issues with them. On this repair stick to OEM.

Cam position sensors is about $75 to $100 depending on if ur getting oem or aftermarket sensors....read the check engine light to see which sensor is bad and replace...the guide that these other guys have mentioned is pretty well written so u should check that out and save urself at least $300

The dealership diagnosed your issue over the phone? Have someone check your error codes, that's where you'll find the correct answer. Our Infinitis have several sensors that will light up you dash when they go out. Remember Nissan charges 30% less than Infiniti and they'll be glad to work on your car if needed....Gary

Gary's right, no way to diagnose without pulling the code.
I just went through this last week, sitting at a light, car dies, very hard to restart and all 3 lights are lit. Lucky for me I have Osiris tuner, Chipher and a cable. I pull 2 codes, one for the drivers side cam sensor and one on the bcm, replace cam sensor, clear codes and 500 miles later all is still good, total time to diagnose and repair less than an hour and I cleaned the throttle body, change my air filter and did an oil change. Autozone and Oreilly's have the parts and code scanners, I'd have them scan it but buy an OE sensor, they are about $100

Since I reset the ecu by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, the car is running fine. No warning lights (CEL,VDC or SLIP) are on. Its like the problem never existed. What I want to find out is that is this a temperory fix. Should I still replace the Cam position sensors or not? The delear says that its a temperory fix and I must change both sensors as the problem will return without any warning causing the car to stall or go in the 'limp' mode. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I'd suggest waiting for the problem to surface again, then scan for codes so you know what the problem is. I wouldn't trust a diagnosis over the phone.

It might even be good to go ahead and scan it now for codes, you may have a pending code that is an early warning. Not all faults trip the check engine light right away.

Just changed the passenger side sensor 2 weeks ago with aftermarket part bought off ebay from API for $20. Prolly just one of your sensors is bad, not both, but no way to know until you get it on a code scanner. I hoped my stallout issue would go away too, it started sporadically and within a month it was happening everyday, good thing I had access to another vehicle while I waited for the part to come in, and I only have to drive back roads to get to work when I did have to drive it. The sensor is on the back of the motor, and after you find out which sensor it is you may want to pull it out and compare with the pictures on ebay, or take it to the parts store with you, to make sure you get the correct one (I bought the wrong one the first time). You only require a 10mm socket to take off your engine cover, and a 10mm wrench to take out the sensor, and a pair of pliers of vice grips to squeeze the plug release to come off the sensor. Good luck, you should have no problem.

Ok, the car went to the dealer and the scanned for error codes. No apparent malfunction or error codes showed up. The car is running fine. I am still worried as I was told if its the cam position sensors they act up sporadically. Has anyone experienced this as an intermittent problem and if so does the problem go away and reappears with out any warning. I would be scared to take the car on the freeway not knowing if the CEL and VDC will act up. Dealer has no clue as no error codes are showing on his scanner. He suggests that I should keep on driving without any worries. My question is that why did the warning lights appear without any reason.Should I change the sensors any way as us doctors say 'prophylaxis treatment' a precaution or preventative action to avoid problems in future. My G35 is beautiful but I cannot stand the car acting up. I will end up selling it, if this problem reappears and nobody knows the fix. Any suggestions?

Nobody knows the fix because nobody knows what the actual problem is with your car. The codes were cleared before any real troubleshooting was attempted. You might as well dump a can of Engine Scrub from KaleCoAuto in there to clean everything out, it'll have the same effect as randomly replacing sensors:


http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=25




If the lights come on again, scan for codes, don't just reset the battery without knowing what's going on. Your car is also approaching 10 years old, a pocket scanner would be a good investment. Don't need anything fancy, a basic $60 tool will do just fine. Or even a generic Bluetooth ODBII dongle plus the Torque Pro app on your phone.

ahh a racer of the streets as well!