Is the 6MT Shudder & Chatter Fixed on the 2005 Models???
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by 3Aims
I am scheduled to go pick up my 2005 G35 sedan 6MT today. However, after reading several posts on this board, I am now worried the 6MT is a problem. I know most of the problems were with the 2003/04 models, but all of these posts has me worried.
Personally I would buy a 6MT knowing what I know though I would test drive it before purchasing it. Ride the clutch a little in first gear and see if it makes any noticable noises. If it does I would not purchase the car, keep looking. If you don't here anything you are probably ok. So far I have not had any real issues with my car in relation to the noise though it's pretty disapointing given the amount of money I spent on this car.
BTW - This is my 5th manual transmission car and the first time I have ever had any issue of this type.
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From: San Diego, CA
I have come across a couple posts with 05's complaining abot the chatter/shudder. Seems to be the same, some have it some don't. I am still waiting for someone who initially had the problem, to change the clutch, to see if it remedies the problem, maybe an 03 with lots of milage. Until then, I am going to live with it.
Originally Posted by milanoa
Ok, there are definitely 6MT's that don't make any noises or shuddering. That said I test drove 3 2004 6MT's before I bought mine. Two of the three made a noticable noise upon letting up the clutch engaging first gear. I assumed it would go away after break in though it does not.
This is exactly what it is..so what if it makes sounds upon engaging? This car just needs more gas upon going into first to make that sound go away, but it still no big deal just a bunch of self concious people who started this crazy shudder/chatter myth. Any car which doesn't get enough gas upon engaging first will make a metal clacking sound...ALL sticks do if not given enough throttle. If yor car makes other metallic grinding sounds in other gears while driving, then you have a problem.
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Originally Posted by Z06ified
The chatter we're talking about here is not a noise. Its a shuddering or non-smooth clutch engagement. Instead of the clutch slipping smoothly as you let it out, it shudders a bit. It doesn't make any sound at all - its something you feel.
Usually clutch chatter in old cars is caused by either a heat warped flywheel, or oil leaking onto the clutch disc. But I don't think either is the case here, which is why I think its the clutch material that is the culprit.
Usually clutch chatter in old cars is caused by either a heat warped flywheel, or oil leaking onto the clutch disc. But I don't think either is the case here, which is why I think its the clutch material that is the culprit.
Z06ified is dead on correct. The clutch shudder is something that is FELT and NOT heard. The clutch shudder that people are describing is a like a grip-slip-grip-slip-grip cycling about 5 times per second for the first 2 seconds when slowly accelerating from a stop in 1st gear as we engage the clutch. Revving the RPM to above 2000 rpm when engaging the clutch alleviates the shudder but I do not routinely recommend this. THERE IS NO SOUND. I experienced it when I first drove my '05 6MT with 17 miles on her. However, it has almost completely resolved now with 1000 miles. I would agree that the clutch is very grabby. This is especially noticeable on the 1-2 shift, where, in combination with a short 1st gear, the car tends to lurch due to the clutch engaging quickly. I believe that with proper clutch break-in, the excessive clutch grabbiness wears off and becomes smoother. I have only driven manual cars for the last 20 years since age 15 and no other car I've driven has done this. Fortunately, it seems temporary and does not adversely affect performance now.
Last edited by hensta; Feb 12, 2005 at 03:15 PM.
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Originally Posted by 3Aims
I am scheduled to go pick up my 2005 G35 sedan 6MT today. However, ...
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I've got an 05 6MT sedan (992 miles) and the shudder is definitely there. I've had manual trans cars for years and this is also the first one that I've had that was noticeable (other than my old BB Chevelle). I've owned three maxima SE's with 5spds and never did one respond like this. I love the car but am disappointed that such a nice ride could be so crude at times and have a sucky stereo (Bose). The dealer has promised when the next 6MT comes in we'll take it for a ride and compare. Infiniti's TechLine had never heard of the issue.
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From: Las Vegas
I have a whopping 210 Miles on my 05 6MT and the chatter is something that I feel AND hear (especially if the windows are down.) It sounds and feels like a quick knocking in the transmission when the cluch is not fully engaged and you are just starting to move in 1st or reverse. It is most noticable on quick takeoffs and when I'm in reverse backing into my garage which is on an incline. Kinda like if a gear had a bad tooth or something. I am taking it into the dealer tomorrow to have some molding fixed so I'm going to show them the problem with the clutch as well. I'll post the results.
scoobybri
scoobybri
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First off, I will qualify my statements by letting you all know that I have no in depth background or knowledge of the mechanics of our cars. I have a 03.5 6MT and have 20K on my car now. I found the clutch in our cars somewhat annoying to say the least when I first drove the car and so I adjusted the clutch according to an old thread started long ago. My immediate impression was WOW. It was like a whole new system in the way it performed but in particular it made shifting easier and therefore smoother. Since then I have let my clutch back out to normal to see if there was any difference in my skills or the the way the clutch performed and I did notice that I was able to shift the car relatively smoothly but it still required effort on my part. I drove the car like this for at least 10k when I decided I would revisit the clutch adjustment to see if I've learned anything. Well, I would have to say that after driving the car in both situations I believe I've gained more insight and am more perceptive to the changes adjusting the clutch has had.
Before adjustment:
1. High engagement point which was slightly vague making consistent launches more challenging. Also I think this and #2 contributes to longer shift times when pushing the car and makes timing clutch/gas/rpm's more difficult.
2. Apparent inconsistancy in the clutch engagement to full engagement. This caused me to have occasional big jerks especially when pushing the car.
3. I too had shuddering at low rpm take offs (~400-500 RPMS), as well as while rolling in traffic without applying the gas.
After adjustment: adjusted so I still get complete disingagement according to placing the car in first and then pushing clutch to floor and reingage/disingage 1st gear without any change in alignment of the gear teath.
1. Clutch engages after only maybe 0.5 inch (approximation here) movement off floor. This is consistent.
2. Decreased throw from beginning engagement to complete engagement. I would estimate it is now only a 1 inch stroke compared to what seemed like 2-3 inches.
3. I now have little to no shuddering with low rpm take offs and while rolling in traffic without gassing it. This is something I did not appreciate when I first adjusted my clutch mainly because I was still getting used to the car. Also, I had driven my friends M5 and noticed that in his car the engagement point was only about 2 cm off the floor and I didn't even need to give it gas for it to move. I know some of this has to do with the different power outputs of the cars but after I made the adjustment I did notice that my clutch actuation felt very similar to his and I could sometimes get my car into 1st gear and rolling without any gas (not just when I start up the car cold).
This last item really is what suprised me the most and I find it interesting that people are talking about a similar if not the same situation. Now, I have no idea how or why adjusting the clutch would alleviate this situation and maybe someone here can expand on this but I love this adjustment more than I did when I first did it!
Now, I never over rev the engine when pushing the car, unless purposeful, shifts are crisp, consistent and smooth. I really think that the shorter throw for uptake and complete engagement has allowed me to get my rev matching better for smoother upshifts (even significantly less notchiness in the shifter for anyone with 1-2 notchiness - again likely because I can time things better) and easier heal-toe management under hard braking. Now, when I make my shifts my left heal NEVER moves and all the movement I need is in the first 50% of the range of motion of my ankle.
One caveat before I finish this long post. After adjusting the clutch, the nut which holds the bolt in place has a higher tendancy to slip and starts to let the clutch back out after prolonged use. Some people will mark the postion of the nut on the bolt threads with a marker, others have no problems I guess. Just keep an eye out for this and you should have happy consistent shifting all the time.
Hope this helps.
Before adjustment:
1. High engagement point which was slightly vague making consistent launches more challenging. Also I think this and #2 contributes to longer shift times when pushing the car and makes timing clutch/gas/rpm's more difficult.
2. Apparent inconsistancy in the clutch engagement to full engagement. This caused me to have occasional big jerks especially when pushing the car.
3. I too had shuddering at low rpm take offs (~400-500 RPMS), as well as while rolling in traffic without applying the gas.
After adjustment: adjusted so I still get complete disingagement according to placing the car in first and then pushing clutch to floor and reingage/disingage 1st gear without any change in alignment of the gear teath.
1. Clutch engages after only maybe 0.5 inch (approximation here) movement off floor. This is consistent.
2. Decreased throw from beginning engagement to complete engagement. I would estimate it is now only a 1 inch stroke compared to what seemed like 2-3 inches.
3. I now have little to no shuddering with low rpm take offs and while rolling in traffic without gassing it. This is something I did not appreciate when I first adjusted my clutch mainly because I was still getting used to the car. Also, I had driven my friends M5 and noticed that in his car the engagement point was only about 2 cm off the floor and I didn't even need to give it gas for it to move. I know some of this has to do with the different power outputs of the cars but after I made the adjustment I did notice that my clutch actuation felt very similar to his and I could sometimes get my car into 1st gear and rolling without any gas (not just when I start up the car cold).
This last item really is what suprised me the most and I find it interesting that people are talking about a similar if not the same situation. Now, I have no idea how or why adjusting the clutch would alleviate this situation and maybe someone here can expand on this but I love this adjustment more than I did when I first did it!
Now, I never over rev the engine when pushing the car, unless purposeful, shifts are crisp, consistent and smooth. I really think that the shorter throw for uptake and complete engagement has allowed me to get my rev matching better for smoother upshifts (even significantly less notchiness in the shifter for anyone with 1-2 notchiness - again likely because I can time things better) and easier heal-toe management under hard braking. Now, when I make my shifts my left heal NEVER moves and all the movement I need is in the first 50% of the range of motion of my ankle.
One caveat before I finish this long post. After adjusting the clutch, the nut which holds the bolt in place has a higher tendancy to slip and starts to let the clutch back out after prolonged use. Some people will mark the postion of the nut on the bolt threads with a marker, others have no problems I guess. Just keep an eye out for this and you should have happy consistent shifting all the time.
Hope this helps.
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From: Boston, MA
Geez, I think I got lucky, takeoff and 1st to 2nd shifts are quite crisp for my car. This is my 8th+ manual tranny car and its one of the best shifters I've had, lot shorter than a 300ZX or vette.
I've been all over the range from 1-4k rpm during break-in (as I think varying the RPM range is the best way to break in a new engine) and no noticeable clutch vibrations.
I've been all over the range from 1-4k rpm during break-in (as I think varying the RPM range is the best way to break in a new engine) and no noticeable clutch vibrations.
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clutch issues
I have an 05 6MT and have noticed that the transmission is very sensitive when shifting.
For example, when downshifting to first while coming to a stop, if the rev's aren't matched or you aren't almost completely stopped there is a slight shudder while the synchro's bring the engine speed and gears into alignment.
It also seems unnatural to shift into 5th and 6th gears, especially when shifting fast(I think this is unrelated to the clutch as was mentioned in another thread which suggested having the shifter alignment adjusted, and I will have the dealer look at this).
As far as shudder/slippage on takeoff, the clutch engages so high up, that it is almost impossible for me to consistently apply the appropriate amount of throttle. I've spent the last hour reading the clutch adjustment thread on freshalloy, and have come to the conclusion that if I adjust my clutch so that it engages closer to the floor(while still allowing for complete disengagement) it will make the car much easier to drive and probably take care of all of the clutch shudder/slippage problems.
BTW, I picked my car up almost a month ago, but I've been out of town for two weeks in California. I spent the first week in Sacramento, then a few days in Tahoe. I've been in Carlsbad for two days and seen more G's down here in two days than the entire time I was in north Cali. I can't wait to get back home and driving my G, rental cars suck...
Jeremy
For example, when downshifting to first while coming to a stop, if the rev's aren't matched or you aren't almost completely stopped there is a slight shudder while the synchro's bring the engine speed and gears into alignment.
It also seems unnatural to shift into 5th and 6th gears, especially when shifting fast(I think this is unrelated to the clutch as was mentioned in another thread which suggested having the shifter alignment adjusted, and I will have the dealer look at this).
As far as shudder/slippage on takeoff, the clutch engages so high up, that it is almost impossible for me to consistently apply the appropriate amount of throttle. I've spent the last hour reading the clutch adjustment thread on freshalloy, and have come to the conclusion that if I adjust my clutch so that it engages closer to the floor(while still allowing for complete disengagement) it will make the car much easier to drive and probably take care of all of the clutch shudder/slippage problems.
BTW, I picked my car up almost a month ago, but I've been out of town for two weeks in California. I spent the first week in Sacramento, then a few days in Tahoe. I've been in Carlsbad for two days and seen more G's down here in two days than the entire time I was in north Cali. I can't wait to get back home and driving my G, rental cars suck...
Jeremy
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by 3Aims
I picked up the car today. I see what people are talking about. If you don't use a little gas it will shudder a bit. Nothing I can't fix by tweaking how I take off.
This isn't a car with a ton or torque, you must use a small amount of gas while letting the clutch out smoothly, if not you will get a shudder as the engine is approching a stall.
Walking The Fine Line...
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: The Lounge
Originally Posted by 3Aims
Is there a sticky anywhere about proper break-in on these cars?
That is, if you want to follow what Infiniti says rather than the 'this is what I think' method..
Yap, 30months ownership, I've got the chatter and the shudder. Infiniti techs told me these symptoms are 'within normal limits' for this vehicle and there are no effective repairs nor are repairs necessary. I have to say the G35C manual is harder to drive than many other manual vehicles I've driven. (keeps family friends from driving my car, I suppose that's a good thing)
The chatter is managable, but the shuddering is quite embarrasing when it happens. I normally engage my clutch at lower than 1000rpm, especially when the clutch is
hot' Gets worse after some semi- aggressive shifts. Clutch feathers at 1500rpm+ resolves the problem but it's probably not a goos thing to do.
The chatter is managable, but the shuddering is quite embarrasing when it happens. I normally engage my clutch at lower than 1000rpm, especially when the clutch is
hot' Gets worse after some semi- aggressive shifts. Clutch feathers at 1500rpm+ resolves the problem but it's probably not a goos thing to do.
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