I seem to remember saying that like at the beginning of this thread. People don't like to read.

 

If you monitor the temps using the dash gauge (I'm assuming it somewhat accurate) or a OBD-II smartphone app (usually very accurate) you won't seize your engine. Your not running it for long, just long enough for the coolant temp to reach the thermostat open temp which is usually around 180-190. If it's not flowing by the time the engine reaches normal temps then you shut off. It's not that difficult. With the OBD-II smartphone app you can stand over the radiator watching for flow AND monitor the temps in real time.

Really, anybody trying to do any work on an OBD-II vehicle should have an inexpensive OBD-II reader/smartphone app. You can get either a Wifi (iOS) or BT (Android) adapter for ~$20, the Torque app for $5-6 and you're good to go. Even if you don't have a smart phone you can get a Android device used on eBay for about $40 (no cell service needed).

 

So then if it only overheats really when moving at lower speeds, not when idle or freeway... It wouldn't be that the thermostat is stuck closed right??


And are you referring to the engine coolant temp sensor?

 

Hey look at the coolant temperature sending unit .. Also check the connector going to the sensor..

 

Yes, if it were the thermostat it would continue to overheat regardless of speed. The coolant would be blocked from making its way to the waterjacket from the radiator. Unless it is somehow stuck halfway open, which is more than unlikely.

I'm almost positive that its the coolant temp sensor/sending unit that is malfunctioning.

 

Ok so I'm going to check the sensor tomorrow then, so im curious about something.. If my heater is no longer blowing hot air at all, but ice cold.. And I also noticed that when it gets into actual red on temp gauge, I can feel massive heat from engine bay.. Would those be signs of anything off hand??

 

Hory **** you've let it get to the red?
You may have a blown gasket or warped head, my frayng

 

lol... why not just take the car to a shop instead of trying to be a hero :/

 

Well if I blew a head gasket I figured I would have seen white smoke from exhaust.. Ok my car doesn't have a red mark.. But it was pretty close to the "H" but that happened once.. My point I'm getting at, is if I could feel massive heat from Bay.. Wouldn't that imply something other than a sensor malfunctioning?

 

Oh, I see what you're saying, but no, a bad sensor is just like a bad part. The idea being that the sensor goes bad before the part its protecting. So, the sensor is relaying incorrect info to the ecu and your car is actually overheating.

For instance on an older car I had with a bad oil pressure sensor. My pressure was actually really low. Changed the sensor and it fixed it.

 

Ok I understand what you're saying. If I test sensor with ohm/volt meter .. Do you know what specs it should be off hand? Err how to check it

 

I'm really not sure what the ohms should be. I found something on nico that said 10 cold and 0.15 at temperature, but that was for a some 96 Infiniti. Probably the same sensor, but I can't be sure. Call a repair shop and ask. I've had good luck with getting advice over the phone now and then.

 

Where is the coolant temp sensor?

 

Gotta be somewhere...haha

 

rear of engine between the pipe that interconnects the 2 heads together.


90% of the time it's NEVER a water pump.

Usually a bad stat, air in the system, or leak in the cooling system and/or combination of them all.

But a water pump hardly ever goes bad on these engines.