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Looked up and it says 82c (170F i guess). But the tstat itself feels and looks crappy and the internals look nothing like a oem nissan tstat. I took pics
Looked up and it says 82c (170F i guess). But the tstat itself feels and looks crappy and the internals look nothing like a oem nissan tstat. I took pics
You can test it by putting it in a pot of water on your stove and heating the pot up to just over 170 degrees and see if it opens. It might help to have an infrared thermometer gun to use for verifying the actual temperature of the water.
It sounds like the thermostat is a POS and that seems to be the conclusion based on the information you've provided us too. Maybe it's only able to partially open and is restricting coolant flow somewhat.
You can get a replacement thermostat at Advance Auto for under $18 if you use coupon code TRT30 for 30% off and pay online/pickup in-store.
Last edited by partyman66; 02-04-2015 at 06:47 PM.
Just another thing to consider... are you sure you're using the right mixture of coolant to water? If by chance you happen to be running pure, undiluted coolant, you may be experiencing the science and chemical nature of the fact that water cools better than coolant. The only reason we have coolant mixed in there at all is to prevent the system from being damaged from corrosion as well as from freezing solid in cold or boiling over when it gets too hot. Water is the most effective at actual cooling though and if there happens to be pure or over-saturated coolant in there the vehicle will suffer from decreased ability to remain cool and transfer heat out of the system.
Update: Looks like I solved the issue. Cause chance it was a defective thermostat. My advice to anyone who has my same issue. USE OEM THERMOSTAT!!! Its cheap and works right.
After cleaning everything up I went on a test drive and was please to see my temp results
Ambint temp 12F
Heat off
Stop and go Driving 181-187F
Driver 40mph and over 179-183F
Under Load 177-183F
Fans didnt kick on the whole 10 mile trip.
I changed the tstat with an OEM (a btich to get the gasket right) and bled the system with my trusty friend lisle. At first it was hard to get the system to bleed, but You guys are right about putting the car on a slight incline. I let the car get to operating temp, then I opened the bleeder to let all the bubble out until i saw a stream flowing. there was alot of air to get out of the system and its still some in there, but im going to go through some heat-cool & bleed cycles to get the rest out, but my heat is working as it was.
Next thing i did was turn the heat off and rev it to 3k. I starting noticing my temp rising and starting worrying i wasted money. But once the temp hit 208, fans kicked on on I saw the funnel started bubbling then the temp dropped to 185 instantly. Thats when i realized the thermostat was opening.
I also notice my car pulls harder and my gas mileage is better. Can a car running hot degrade your gas mileage?
Ill do some more testing but it looks like its solved.
Hello guys, if you can please help me. I have a G35 coupe 2003 with almost all NA mods (bolt ons). The problem is that the engine coolant temp is a hot I think like the guy before. There's no overheat (it's in the middle) but I have a digital gauge attached to the obd2 and it shows the temp reaching 96 degrees celcius (205 F) and when the fans start the degrees will go to 87 C (188 F). I changed the water pump, thermostat (stock), changed the radiator cap, cleaned the radiator, bleeded the cooling systerm and flushed it, almost did everything but it's still the same. I'm getting a Mishimoto thermostat because I know other thermostats are not good. No smoke from exhaust and no mixing of coolant and oil. Could it be the Uprev remap because it was done when I used to have the "PREVIOUS" racing mishimoto thermostat? Should I continue driving the car until it overheats? Coolant level is the same btw, No leaking???? :S Please help guys
^ Your coolant temps are in the correct range. OEM fans kick on at low speed when the coolant gets to 208F, then kick up to high speed when coolant temp reaches 212F. The fans turn off when temp gets back down below 195F. As long as your cooling system is consistently able to keep you within or below that range then you should be fine.
I noticed from the scanner that my engine coolant temp is increasing when my Intake Air Temp is high reaching 140 degrees F while outside it's cold like 59 degrees F. I read a thread that the air condenser might be dirty and blocking cold air from coming inside and also I have a short air intake and I don't have an air intake duct installed which I guess will increase air intake. Could be the air condenser clogged? Because 2 mechanics have seen the car and told me it's normal and asked me to stop looking at the digital gauge :s. What do you suggest? I don't feel the car is fine
Hello guys, if you can please help me. I have a G35 coupe 2003 with almost all NA mods (bolt ons). The problem is that the engine coolant temp is a hot I think like the guy before. There's no overheat (it's in the middle) but I have a digital gauge attached to the obd2 and it shows the temp reaching 96 degrees celcius (205 F) and when the fans start the degrees will go to 87 C (188 F). I changed the water pump, thermostat (stock), changed the radiator cap, cleaned the radiator, bleeded the cooling systerm and flushed it, almost did everything but it's still the same. I'm getting a Mishimoto thermostat because I know other thermostats are not good. No smoke from exhaust and no mixing of coolant and oil. Could it be the Uprev remap because it was done when I used to have the "PREVIOUS" racing mishimoto thermostat? Should I continue driving the car until it overheats? Coolant level is the same btw, No leaking???? :S Please help guys
Your temperatures are in spec for this car. I suggest making sure your car's Air Conditioner is off, make sure the vents are not on Recirculate (use vent instead) and do not use the car's front window defogger. With those things all off, go for a drive down the highway once it's fully warmed up and see what your temperatures hold at when cruising at 65 MPH in top gear. The Air Conditioner being on will make the car run warmer since it adds a decent strain to the motor and the A/C unit itself creates a ton of heat during the compression phase.
Also check to see that your radiator is clean and the fins aren't bent. You need good airflow into and through that radiator in order for it to work right. Also make sure that your radiator fans spin freely (with the car off obviously... don't want to lose a finger), and ensure that while parked and the vehicle is real hot that both fans turn on and spin consistently and at a high speed. The fans actually have a high and low speed setting that is actuated by the car's ECU in addition to also being able to be OFF while the engine is on.
Your temperatures are in spec for this car. I suggest making sure your car's Air Conditioner is off, make sure the vents are not on Recirculate (use vent instead) and do not use the car's front window defogger. With those things all off, go for a drive down the highway once it's fully warmed up and see what your temperatures hold at when cruising at 65 MPH in top gear. The Air Conditioner being on will make the car run warmer since it adds a decent strain to the motor and the A/C unit itself creates a ton of heat during the compression phase.
Also check to see that your radiator is clean and the fins aren't bent. You need good airflow into and through that radiator in order for it to work right. Also make sure that your radiator fans spin freely (with the car off obviously... don't want to lose a finger), and ensure that while parked and the vehicle is real hot that both fans turn on and spin consistently and at a high speed. The fans actually have a high and low speed setting that is actuated by the car's ECU in addition to also being able to be OFF while the engine is on.
Thanks for your help. You meant my temps are normal?
1) I checked the radiator and cleaned it at a radiator shop and guy said it's good.
2) Fans are turning on ( I'm not sure if both and not sure if at high speed) ( I will check that).
3) I had a remap (Uprev) done when my old Mishimoto thermostat was there but now i replaced it with a stock one. Could mapping be the reason?
4) Tonight when there's no traffic, I will go for a drive highway at 65 MPH in top gear as you suggested with my AC off, Vents NOT recirculate and not using car's front window defogger.
Thanks for your help. You meant my temps are normal?
1) I checked the radiator and cleaned it at a radiator shop and guy said it's good.
.
I'm not sure if I was 100% clear about my description of the radiator being clean... I'm actually talking about the outside of the radiator. Make sure there are no bugs, dirt and debris caked into it and that the fins aren't bent or corroded. Air needs to be able to flow freely through it and to the other side in order for it to cool properly.
I'm not sure if I was 100% clear about my description of the radiator being clean... I'm actually talking about the outside of the radiator. Make sure there are no bugs, dirt and debris caked into it and that the fins aren't bent or corroded. Air needs to be able to flow freely through it and to the other side in order for it to cool properly.
Ok I understand you, so you think I have to remove the radiator again and the fans shroud or is there another way. I was thinking of removing the bumper and cleaning the air condenser. The problem is that I have an aftermarket full aluminium radiator ( 3 rows) and removing it and putting it back in place takes time :S
Ok I understand you, so you think I have to remove the radiator again and the fans shroud or is there another way. I was thinking of removing the bumper and cleaning the air condenser. The problem is that I have an aftermarket full aluminium radiator ( 3 rows) and removing it and putting it back in place takes time :S
What do you think?
You shouldn't have to remove anything too serious to clean it out and have a look at it. I'd recommend getting at it from beneath by removing the engine undercover.
If I have a leak between the headers and engine or headers and test pipes? Because I have aftermarket short headers and I think the sound is louder and there is a leak after I went for a long cruise that's what I discovered. If I have a leak somewhere between headers and either the upper part or lower part ( exhaust) will this lead to a higher ECT and higher AIT? 2moro I'm going to a pro exhaust guy and let him check the place I'm telling u about. Tell me what u think?
02-04-2015, 06:40 PM
