Help! Intake breather tube broke off!
If you've been on this forum long enough, you'll know that a lot of us enjoy fixing our cars by ourselves. I've owned my G35 since 2006, and because I take the time to BS around, I have saved thousands from the shops because I know how to fix them for the future. The simple solution is indeed to take it to a shop... At your expense of course.
Alrighty! Wanted to give everyone an update! It looks like my problem has been solved!
The battery drain didn't fix the issue.. probably because I only disconnected it for about an hour.
However, I stumbled upon this video on Youtube on how to do the Idle Relearn:
Skip to 2:35.
I found the best way to do the Idle Relearn is to actually count to 54, instead of count 1 through 3 or 1 through 10 each time. Once you count to 54, you should be flooring the pedal until the Engine Light blinks. Once it stops blinking, immediately let go of pedal and then turn car on.
I am now idling at approximately 600-700, and so far the past 2 hours of driving my Service Engine Light has not come on. I am hoping that it will stay this way.
Thank you JHereth22 for the hose method. That saved me from buying a new Z-Tube.
The battery drain didn't fix the issue.. probably because I only disconnected it for about an hour.
However, I stumbled upon this video on Youtube on how to do the Idle Relearn:
Skip to 2:35.
I found the best way to do the Idle Relearn is to actually count to 54, instead of count 1 through 3 or 1 through 10 each time. Once you count to 54, you should be flooring the pedal until the Engine Light blinks. Once it stops blinking, immediately let go of pedal and then turn car on.
I am now idling at approximately 600-700, and so far the past 2 hours of driving my Service Engine Light has not come on. I am hoping that it will stay this way.
Thank you JHereth22 for the hose method. That saved me from buying a new Z-Tube.
I actually have that hose completely off and venting into the oil catch can. The hole on the intake I just taped with electrical take. Nothing is getting through that .
It is so disappointing to see how much bad information has been given in this thread. Almost every response is wrong or misguiding.
The problem is that you are letting unfiltered and un-metered (post-MAFS leak) air into the engine. As long as there is any leak after the MAFS, the idle and throttle will not work correctly. All the resets in the world wont help.
There are only 2 safe solutions to the situation.
1. Buy a new intake tube and reconnect as if was before.
2. Cut the breather hose fitting off flush from the intake tube and safely/permanently patch the hole. If you go this route, you must remove the other end of the breather hose which is connected to the back of the driver's side valve cover and put an mini air filter in its place. The will vent the crankcase to atmosphere and prevent dirt from getting in your heads.
The problem is that you are letting unfiltered and un-metered (post-MAFS leak) air into the engine. As long as there is any leak after the MAFS, the idle and throttle will not work correctly. All the resets in the world wont help.
There are only 2 safe solutions to the situation.
1. Buy a new intake tube and reconnect as if was before.
2. Cut the breather hose fitting off flush from the intake tube and safely/permanently patch the hole. If you go this route, you must remove the other end of the breather hose which is connected to the back of the driver's side valve cover and put an mini air filter in its place. The will vent the crankcase to atmosphere and prevent dirt from getting in your heads.
It is so disappointing to see how much bad information has been given in this thread. Almost every response is wrong or misguiding.
The problem is that you are letting unfiltered and un-metered (post-MAFS leak) air into the engine. As long as there is any leak after the MAFS, the idle and throttle will not work correctly. All the resets in the world wont help.
There are only 2 safe solutions to the situation.
1. Buy a new intake tube and reconnect as if was before.
2. Cut the breather hose fitting off flush from the intake tube and safely/permanently patch the hole. If you go this route, you must remove the other end of the breather hose which is connected to the back of the driver's side valve cover and put an mini air filter in its place. The will vent the crankcase to atmosphere and prevent dirt from getting in your heads.
The problem is that you are letting unfiltered and un-metered (post-MAFS leak) air into the engine. As long as there is any leak after the MAFS, the idle and throttle will not work correctly. All the resets in the world wont help.
There are only 2 safe solutions to the situation.
1. Buy a new intake tube and reconnect as if was before.
2. Cut the breather hose fitting off flush from the intake tube and safely/permanently patch the hole. If you go this route, you must remove the other end of the breather hose which is connected to the back of the driver's side valve cover and put an mini air filter in its place. The will vent the crankcase to atmosphere and prevent dirt from getting in your heads.
Not everything needs to be fix with brand new shiny part. Sometimes piece of duct tape will do just fine.
If he did the reset and idle revs came back to normal that means there is no air leak after MAF sensor. So he is ok with his fix and it's quite safe. If he gets a code again that means he's got a leak and will need a better fix.
Not everything needs to be fix with brand new shiny part. Sometimes piece of duct tape will do just fine.
Not everything needs to be fix with brand new shiny part. Sometimes piece of duct tape will do just fine.
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JG_G35
Engine - Intake/Fuel
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Sep 7, 2015 09:35 PM