I jumped on this a little later in the day then i should of cause i need to sleep n be at work at 430 am.

Anyways i replaced the rad and stat . The radiator was from local rad shop and the stat came with the housing , its dura last from atozone.

I had the front of the car jacked up , with the cap off i filled the rad to burp it. Heat temp all the way up, blower off. Ran the car for like 20 min , fans finally kicked in and the car started over heating. The was a lot of antifreeze over flowing and air pockets. Kept topping it off with no luck . The heat is now blowing cold and car over heats.

The shop i work at is ten min from home so on a cold start i should be fine goin to work n back home but i wanna fix this tomorow.

What am i doing wrong? Theres no leaks..... I read this is an issue to get all the air out .... Whats the best way to do this?

I dont feel like getting one of the radiator funnel kits but will that help??? Help me out fellas

 

you still have a lot of air in the system.
you should have a bleeder valve you can open up so you do not need to have your radiator cap off as it is pressurized.

 

You still have air in the system, follow ^ andrewvk's advice!
Gary

 

Exactly how to i bleed it? Should i jack up the front ?? Should i top it off using the over flow tank? Heater on or off?? Rev the engine or no ???

I am googling this but seems like its tougher with these cars and i dont really have time to be doing it wrong. Thanks guys

 

There is an air bleeder valve BEHIND the intake plenum, you will need to check the service manual

 

Bleeding 101, at least what works for me:
1 raise front of car (30 degrees per FSM)
2 temp at 90 fan blowing to floor
3 with a 2nd person at bleeder valve rev to 3000 rpm, person opens:closes bleeder.

Usually takes 3 or 4 rev ups.
Also check your radiator cap, of its not holding your car will still overheat.

 

Location of air bleeder valve:

 

Ok guys so on the way to work , wich is 15 min away tops, car started getting hot . I pulled over a few times and let it cool down. ... Topped off the radiator.... Got to work... About 12 hours later got back in and did not overheat on the way home .... Heater now works while revving but not at idle.....

I bleed the system some more and still no heat at idle..... Do i still have air pockets?????
Before changing anything i had heat at idle but it was warm.

Do i keep bleeding?

 

Yes

 

Try this (works every time for me): put your heat and HVAC fans on full blast, get car up to full operating temperature, then turn off car.

Very very very carfully remove rad cap (this can be very unsafe, but that thermostat needs to be open). With car off, and rad cap off squeeze the lower radiator hose with your hand repeatedly. This acts like a siphon and displaces the air trapped in the block with coolant from your radiator.

As your coolant level in your radiator goes down, keep filling it up, and keep squeezing the lower hose. Once the rad level stops going down cap it off and take it for a spin (with heater on full blast.

Let cool, and check coolant level. If its down still, fill and repeat. Don't forget to put coolant in the overflow.

 

its a common misconception to put you hvac fans on while bleeding. coolant cycles through your heater core regardless of the fan setting. you only turn your fans on full heat and full blast when you are over heating.


and again. you still have air in your system. its not a user friendly system to bleed, it takes patients and time. if you enjoy driving your car please stop driving it until you can get someone who knows how to properly bleed the system to do it.

 

Its not a misconception. The heater control valve closes the coolant line. At least that's how it was on my camaro. It was a 3 line valve with an in/out/bypass. That's why when you're car overheats you turn the heater on. It cycles unheated coolant into the system.

 

3rd gen? they have been obsolete for years, mostly due to the fact they malfunctioned so much. because of the high pressure and heat environment. not to mentioned most people deleted them. because closing the heater door on you hvac controller does the same thing with less issues.

ts like telling him to check his distributor because the old 350s have them as well.
its not set up like that on any nissan. so turning the heat on will do nothing while you are trying to bleed it.

 

Haha, yeah it was a 3rd gen. That's funny, cuz I always wondered how it was doing it electronically. That third gen system was obviously a vacuum, and on cars with electronically controlled HVACs I'm thinkin, "if the cars not on how the eff is that heater valve opening". What yer saying makes sense. So, its not so much a misconception as an outdated, no longer necessary step.