Really inclined to do this, the current point is too high and takes the fun out of manual.

Now that we're in 2015, have we reached a consensus on whether adjusting the point causes premature wear of the clutch? How many revolutions of the bolt is safe?

Anybody who has been running this mod please chime in.

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...al-remedy.html

 

I've never seen a 6MT, but why don't they have adjusters like on a motorcycle where it's as easy to change as a flick of a setter (there are ***** that change resting point which effects engagement point).

 

The problem with adjusting the clutch is the helper spring. It eliminates the normal feedback of where the actual engagement point is. Without this feedback, novice users can end up adjusting it wrong which would cause the premature wear.

Best mod I've done the the RJM AFP clutch pedal replacement. It eliminates that spring and allows you to adjust the engagement "window" of the clutch.

 

I've used 1.25 turns for a couple months, and didn't really notice anything adverse. I recently replaced the clutch pedal with the RJM aftermarket pedal, like lost did, and I'd recommend going that route if you have the money.

 

ive tried to understand how adjusting the pedal would cause premature wear. if you by any chance adjust it so that the clutch is constantly lightly engaged would you not feel pressure going into first? or even the car nudge forward?

can you adjust the pedal too far in and not feel any effects of a partially engaged clutch?

maybe im thinking too much like an experienced person? am i missing something?

 

I'd imagine there would be some increased resistance when putting the shifter in first. When I did the clutch adjustment it was easy to tell when it was engaging, because my car was in my garage and right when it started biting I could hear the gears spinning.

 

thats what i mean. is there a way to adjust the pedal that its partially engaged and you wont feel any of that? leading to premature wear?

 

Yes it's possible, if you're not careful. 1.25 turns worked for me, with enough disengaged travel for me to feel comfortable. Idk how loud your tranny is, but if you can hear the gears spinning with the clutch out and in neutral, then you can hear if the clutch is partially engaged when you adjust the pedal.

 

just back space it at the stopper to rid of the extra travel. should be a blue plastic piece on the clutch pedal arm. just stack something sticky onto it little at a time until it feels good.

it only wears the clutch if it doesnt fully engage..you must have some slack in the pedal once its all the way up.

 

i strongly recommend you leave it as it is.

 

If you stick some furniture pads or cabinet stoppers together on the pedal stop and get it to where you want it, its definitely worth the feel. This way there is no risk to changing the engagement to where the clutch isn't fully engaged and causing it to wear more. Ive had my car this way for 2 yrs.

Its better ergonomics on leg fatigue as well.

 

I guess I have been driving manual transmission for a long time so this seems a bit weird to me. People do know that they don't have to push the clutch all the way in or too far past the engagement point. Good drivers are only push the clutch slightly past the disengagement\engagement point. No need to push or release the pedal all the way. You just cant have the pedal in a position where the clutch is not fully engaged or disengaged...that's when you will prematurely wear out the clutch

 

exactly what I was pointing to. youll only prematurely wear the clutch if you set it somewhere inbetween the engagement point.

 

Ok so just finished doing this mod for past 3 days. In short its pretty useless as it doesn't actually lower the clutch from the bottom up, just from the top down. Its the equivalent to putting your foot on the clutch at all times without your foot actually being there.

Even worse I had a hard time readjusting it to stock, it wasn't as simple as turning the bolt the other direction... I had to turn it all the way back but that wasn't enough to get it back to normal, which really confused me and caused a lot of frustration. I then realized I had to depress the clutch with my hand slightly and then turn again, a couple of times I think.

I still don't have it back 100% stock, I couldn't get it back to that point, which is why you shouldn't **** with this at all. But I believe I am at a safe level because I regained the "clicking sound" the clutch makes when depressing it to a certain point. If you lose that sound (I think that's the helper spring?) your clutching probably isn't fully disengaged. Maybe someone can clarify?