Adjusting clutch engagement point
Ok so just finished doing this mod for past 3 days. In short its pretty useless as it doesn't actually lower the clutch from the bottom up, just from the top down. Its the equivalent to putting your foot on the clutch at all times without your foot actually being there.
Even worse I had a hard time readjusting it to stock, it wasn't as simple as turning the bolt the other direction... I had to turn it all the way back but that wasn't enough to get it back to normal, which really confused me and caused a lot of frustration. I then realized I had to depress the clutch with my hand slightly and then turn again, a couple of times I think.
I still don't have it back 100% stock, I couldn't get it back to that point, which is why you shouldn't **** with this at all. But I believe I am at a safe level because I regained the "clicking sound" the clutch makes when depressing it to a certain point. If you lose that sound (I think that's the helper spring?) your clutching probably isn't fully disengaged. Maybe someone can clarify?
Even worse I had a hard time readjusting it to stock, it wasn't as simple as turning the bolt the other direction... I had to turn it all the way back but that wasn't enough to get it back to normal, which really confused me and caused a lot of frustration. I then realized I had to depress the clutch with my hand slightly and then turn again, a couple of times I think.
I still don't have it back 100% stock, I couldn't get it back to that point, which is why you shouldn't **** with this at all. But I believe I am at a safe level because I regained the "clicking sound" the clutch makes when depressing it to a certain point. If you lose that sound (I think that's the helper spring?) your clutching probably isn't fully disengaged. Maybe someone can clarify?
best way to tell is jacking up the rear of the car, depressing on the clutch and running through the gears noticing if the rear tires move at all. if for any reason you cant, then its mainly feel. you shouldn't feel a lot of resistance, any gear noise, or the car nudging forward at all going into gear.
as for the pedal adjustment, if you did it a turn at a time you should have noticed a huge difference (positively). I did about 2-3 turns on mine (it was so long ago I forgot the direction already) 1 turn at a time. you should mark the rod so you can keep count of them.
remember also when you adjust your pedal to check the cruise control and ignition switch. make sure the pedal is returning to hit the button. if not you can adjust the button height as well.
all this is kind of a pain in the A, but once you get it nailed to where you like it its amazing.
Last edited by rramos3; May 15, 2015 at 07:47 AM.
ive tried to understand how adjusting the pedal would cause premature wear. if you by any chance adjust it so that the clutch is constantly lightly engaged would you not feel pressure going into first? or even the car nudge forward?
can you adjust the pedal too far in and not feel any effects of a partially engaged clutch?
maybe im thinking too much like an experienced person? am i missing something?
can you adjust the pedal too far in and not feel any effects of a partially engaged clutch?
maybe im thinking too much like an experienced person? am i missing something?
and that is exactly what happens when people try to adjust the pedal engagement on these cars. They don't "feel normal" so the usual feedback to avoid a partially engaged clutch doesn't exist. Simply removing the helper spring is a big improvement, but if you have to remove the pedal assembly anyway, might as well slap in an RJM pedal with even more adjustment options.
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