where do i start off to gain hp on my g35
#16
07-28-2015, 10:33 PM
I could be wrong but he has a 2007 G35. Plenum spacer will not work on his car. Exhaust will be good for you. HFC/TP will be your biggest gain. When I had the fast intention HFC the before and after dyno was a gain of 16WRHP on my G. You can free up HP by getting a light weight pulley and a carbon fiber drive shaft if you have the money. Need to save up for that drive shaft. If you have an AT, the transgo kit is good for you.
Besides the point though. Op sounds like it was written by a 16 year old with an ecig and half his head shaved
#18
07-29-2015, 10:36 AM
I got some seat dyno action from my spacer. Z tube made the car "sound" better. Worth if for the little money spent.
Thinking hi flow cats next, just because I need another butt dyno boost.
I do agree, going FI is the way to go if you want major gains. I did that on my 2005 Mustang GT and went straight to a Kenne Bell 2.6L Big Bore twin screw positive displacement supercharger a few months after I bought it new in 2005.... and then I began replacing all the other parts that were exposed as a weakness.. brakes, suspension (severe rear end dip and wheel hop, got better springs, which lead to a panhard bar, and lower control arms, and upper control arm, etc), shifter (locking out of third gear on WOT shifts), transmission (broke the input shaft in half), drive shaft (smacking the underside of the car on WOT shifts), several clutches (the stock went in about month), rear tires (had to run drag radial$ on the street just to keep from spinning), anyway, you get the idea. Fast and reliable ain't cheap.
The good news was, I was already 200 rwhp (268 rwhp stock, 472 rwhp with KB) ahead of all the other Mustang GTs doing bolt on mods gaining a couple horsepower at a time, but still not getting within 150 rwhp of what they could do with FI on the stock block.
The path to "fast" by just going with FI is not a cheap one. It won't be "throw a supercharger on it and call it a day" because all the other parts around it will start to fail and/or show weakness sooner.
The light that burns twice as bright burns half as long.
Thinking hi flow cats next, just because I need another butt dyno boost.
I do agree, going FI is the way to go if you want major gains. I did that on my 2005 Mustang GT and went straight to a Kenne Bell 2.6L Big Bore twin screw positive displacement supercharger a few months after I bought it new in 2005.... and then I began replacing all the other parts that were exposed as a weakness.. brakes, suspension (severe rear end dip and wheel hop, got better springs, which lead to a panhard bar, and lower control arms, and upper control arm, etc), shifter (locking out of third gear on WOT shifts), transmission (broke the input shaft in half), drive shaft (smacking the underside of the car on WOT shifts), several clutches (the stock went in about month), rear tires (had to run drag radial$ on the street just to keep from spinning), anyway, you get the idea. Fast and reliable ain't cheap.
The good news was, I was already 200 rwhp (268 rwhp stock, 472 rwhp with KB) ahead of all the other Mustang GTs doing bolt on mods gaining a couple horsepower at a time, but still not getting within 150 rwhp of what they could do with FI on the stock block.
The path to "fast" by just going with FI is not a cheap one. It won't be "throw a supercharger on it and call it a day" because all the other parts around it will start to fail and/or show weakness sooner.
The light that burns twice as bright burns half as long.
Last edited by Hatchman; 07-29-2015 at 10:42 AM.
#19
07-29-2015, 11:12 AM
With all the used cheap pumpkins floating around, he can probably swap in a 3.7 FD pretty cheaply.
I've always found FD changes to be good bang for the buck type mods in terms of feeling SOTP change
#20
07-29-2015, 12:05 PM
Registered User
I second this as well. In terms of getting the bast 0-60 and 1/4 mile this will be your best bet.
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