EDIT: it's a 2005 G35 coupe

First off, I have a window issue. It's not sealing right. I can hear a whistle at high speeds coming from the drivers window, and when I run it through a car wash or just hand wash it, water leaks in. There was a thread I followed to tighten up some bolts, but it just made it worse. Anyone have any ideas on a fix for this? The seal has been replaced.

Also, I'm having a fuel level reading issue. I followed the DIY cleaning method of the sending units, but didn't work. I did notice that everyone that tried this method and it worked were having issues with the gauge reading completely "full." My problem is that it'll read completely full at fill up, but when I'm at about 200+ miles, it'll read just under 3/4 tank. It won't drop anywhere below just under 3/4 tank. Does anyone know what ohm values I should be looking for when testing the sending units, and if the sending units aren't the culprit, I noticed people saying the gauge cluster needs to be replaced. Is there not a fix for the actual gauge if that's the problem?

 

so it appears that the front of my drivers window doesn't go all the way up to complete the seal, but the back of it does. There's about less than 1/8" gap between the crest of the front part of the window and the seal. How do I adjust this?

As for the fuel sending units, they are reading 63 ohms empty, 23 ohms full on the drivers side, and 100 ohms empty and 23 ohms full on the passenger side with the fuel pump. When it reads about 60 ohms on the pump side, the float rod is at about a 1/4 tank. I'm lost on what the deal is. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

You can adjust your window height by the bolts on the rails that window glides on. You'll have to take your door apart (inside) and adjust 3 bolts.

 

are you talking about the mounts that the window is attached to that attach to the rails? or the rails that bolt to the interior door skin? Because i've already adjust the actual rails, which have 4 bolts, and that really didn't do anything.

 

I ran the cluster diagnostics procedure I found in another thread earlier today, and from what I understand, if the gas gauge isn't right at half a tank, then the cluster is bad? What's weird is that my coolant gauge isn't at halfway either. Here's some pictures. If the cluster is bad, does anyone know of a fix?

 

I'm talking about the actual bolts that hold the window not the rail ones.

 

Ok cool cool. Thanks for the reply. I'll get that done.

As far as the fuel sending units go, here's an update.

The FSM says the sending unit resistance should read 3 ohms at full, 43 ohms empty on driver side (LHD), and 3 ohms full and 80 ohms empty on passenger side (pump side). If my readings are 23 ohms full, 62 ohms empty drivers side, 23 ohms full 100 ohms empty pump side, would that indicate my units are bad? If so, why is my gauge reading full at 23 ohms and not half a tank like it should at 23 ohms? Also, what would cause my pumps to put out a different range of resistance but maintain a steady resistance change throughout the entire spectrum?