[QUOTE=WadeRosenberg;7045365]
You have to either park on a up hill or jack the front up . Just Google the step by step or check my started threads. I went thru that sht too.

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/447961-overheating-after-thermostat-replace.html

 

I ended up taking to my mechanic, he determined that its NOT a blown head gasket, but he thinks i have a faulty (Water Pump) he said its not circulating the Hot water which is why my lower hose isnt getting Hot nor the heat.

So with that beibg said said i will purchase a water pump soon and get back with results.

 

i had the same issue, its air pockets in the system, i went and bought the yellow funnel at O'Reilly and put it on a hill, took me about 3 tries before it stopped overheating. i did replace the thermostat with an autozone one and still had the same issue. and yes my bottom hose was not warm at all. So went and bought a nissan oem one and redid everything with the funnel, let it run for a couple mins and no issues since than. our cars are a pain in the *** when it comes to the air bubbles. that funnel was $35 so comes in handy when issues like this arise.

 

I find that hard to believe the water pump is driven by the timing chain. So, unless the propellers are rusted to nothing then I don't think it's your water pump (sounds like they want to make a 500 profit). I had a faulty water pump on my G and it was only faulty because of the bad bearings. If you had bad bearings you would know trust me.


I would say you probably just have a crap load of air in the system. I've bled my car about three or four times and every time it has taken at least 1.5-2 hours on a good day.

This is how I do it:

1. Fill the radiator up.
2. Fill the reservoir as much as I can
3. Keep the spill free funnel attached
4. Turn heat on blast
5. Rev engine between 2500-3000 RPM for a few seconds
6. Repeat step 5 two or three more times
7. Turn off car
8. Squeeze hoses
9. Feel top hose and bottom hose
10. Do steps 5 - 9 again several times
11. At this point I always still have freezing cold air in the cabin.
12. Check the hoses for temperature
13. If they feel about right to me, I know it's circulating in the engine. It's just the heater core that has the bubbles.
14. Take the car out on the highway and drive really fast. It get's all the remaining bubbles out.
15. Top off reservoir next day or two.

 

This morning i got up, parked it on a incline hill and while i had the funnel on i rev it a few times. What i noticed was that Today while reving i felt Hot\Warm heat coming from vents. As i stopped Revving the Heat cooled back down to blowing cool air. I turned car off after reving for about 60 sec " On and Off" and parked it. I will try again in about an hour

 

Have you followed the overheating troubleshooting steps in the FSM?

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2003/co.pdf

See page CO-6

With a 2003 vehicle it could probably use a new water pump, fans, hoses, belts, and a new radiator cap, and a pressure test.

Good luck

Telcoman

 

Keep burping the cooling system. Your getting heat becuase its working

 

Just curious is there a special tool\machine the dealer uses to bleed air from cooling system.

There is no way they manually service there cars. I have a hard time believing that dealer goes threw all this spill free funnel ****.

I gave up and will take it to a professional foreign shop this weekend. Quoted 69.99$ not bad as i expected

 

I purchased one of these:
But, I haven't had a chance to use it though. I seen videos of it and it looks like my burping days are over though.

 

THANK YOU.

Omg why havent anyone been post this tool/product.
This is what i been searching for all alone.

 

The key to filling a G35 cooling system after a drain without getting any bubbles in it is to fill it very slowly with the front end slightly raised. Once the radiator is full, burp the system by running it with the heater on and radiator cap off and try to bounce the front end a bit to get out bubbles. I usually will sit in the car and watch the radiator through the windshield via the gap between my open hood and dash to make sure it's not bubbling over and shut it off just before it gets to that point. Do this a few times with the overflow reservoir full and you should be good.

 

OK so i took the car to the shop and dropped it off at 10:00am, Shop told me they will call me when its ready. 7:00pm comes along and still no phone call so i decide to go to the Shop myself.

Spoke to the machanic who was working on car and he stated that He bleed it 3 times and still couldnt get it too stop overheating. He stated fopr some reason your car is not circulating the coolant properly. He stated that he is going to have to Keep it overnight and let it sit to finish getting air pockets out.

I called this morning for an update he stated Car ready, Not overheating but your not getting Heat while idling, only when on the accelerator.

He stated that it not a blown head gasket, neither do he thinks its bad water pump, he stated im not having any symptoms ofbad water pump.

ANY REASON WHY IM NOT GETTING ANY HEAT AT IDLE BUT ONLY WHILE DRIVING. ??????!!!!

IM so ready to sell this car.

 

No heat usually means there is air still in the system. I squeezed all of the coolant hoses to help get the air out when the car was running.

 

Ok so i picked the car up and after driving for about 15min the car temperature gauge began to rise...... Again. I parked it and punched the **** out of it out of frustration.

While driving heat was blowing hard and hot while accelerating but when idling or off gas the heat cooled back down.

The only thing i can think of is a faulty watet pump.

Should i let car sit overnight with radiator cap off?

Should i continue to just try to manually burp it as i been doing for last 3 weeks?

When taking funnel off do i immediately put radiator capp back on.?



I really dont know what the issue is?
Still overheating and heat not working properly.

BTW i took the car to MIDAS not the dealer.