If that's really unburned gas and not condensation you have either an injector that is grounded on the on the pulse wire (Causing the injector to stay open when ever the engine is running) OR you have a fuel injector that is mechanically stuck open.

Again, fuel pressure test should confirm.

 

It appears to be unburned gas, I can post a video, it just sprays everywhere each time I hard blip the throttle, no matter how many times I do it

when you say the injector might be grounded on the on pulse wire, would that be the injector itself that is faulty, or the wire running to it? is there any way to check the mechanical efficiency of the injectors other than pulling out of car, and doing a flow test?

Thanks again for the suggestions everyone

 

couple things.. IF you have unburned fuel coming out the exhaust, and have cats of any type.. you are already screwed (except stainless steel/metal cats) I see that you have Stillen hi flows but I don't have any experience with them. Raw unburned fuel will melt a catalyst in a hurry. I doubt that you are throwing raw gas or it would stink very badly as well, almost overpowering.

Next thing is.. looking at your dyno posted yesterday. you WERE having this problem on the dyno as well.. that big drop in the hp/torque curve happens at 4800rpm. It is not felt on the dyno because the car isnt moving, and you aren't getting that push in your back.

I think that the injector harness should be gone thru completely, and refurbed/replaced. the fpr on the rail would be a good idea as well.. while you are in there anyway.

If you have been dumping fuel on #3 I would check the cat on that side as well for proper flow. It could very well be plugged and you finally gain enough velocity to push through after 4800rpm. I've had cars that had a plugged cat and they ran fine, if not a little weak until the car warmed up, the cat lit off and expanded and blocked the exhaust exit, and the car fell on its face.. sometimes even shutting down due to the backpressure.

just riffing here.. hope something sticks.. good luck

 

Water is a natural product of combustion, too. So it's normal to have that come out of the exhaust. Raw fuel, definitely not.

 

You took the words out of my mouth on that dyno reference... I saw that blip occur on the graph at 4800 rpm too, which makes me wonder if the tuner could've caught that? He caught my lazy upstream O2 sensor on our first dyno session, but I'm surprised that blip at 4800 didn't float well with him...

I agree with you on rail fpr/fuel injector harness, and I will check that passenger side hfc when I get the car up on a lift again...

the owner that I bought the car from mentioned that he only used 87 unleaded in this car since he's owned it(original owner), when he sold the vehicle to me at 60k miles for 9400(this is why I didnt care about throwing money at the car btw, thought I was going to need 15k minimum to buy originally, but got it for way less).

My question is, is it possible that he damaged some part of the fuel system by using 87 octane due to the fact that the manual calls for 91 minimum and I''ve been putting 93 in it since I've owned it(tuned for 93 now)?

Thanks

 

I will post a video soon so that we all get on the same page here...I might use like a white piece of cardboard or something and place it about a foot out behind the exhaust to show you the color/consistency.

My grandfather, who worked on the blue angel navy jets his whole life, feels as though gas is mixing into the oil, and possibly making its way out the exhaust, which is producing this black sooty carbon buildup residue along the exhaust pipe/spark plugs. Thoughts?

 

Most likely it is just carbon and normal condensation from the exhaust. My car does the same thing. My custom made exhaust has tips pointing to the ground and about a foot behind the bumper I can put black circles on my driveway if I rev a few times soon after first starting it.

I don't think the 87 octane is an issue, on the stock tune is not going to kill the car. I'm actually on a base tune, with lots of bolt ones and was using 93 at first. The car was so rich. I've been on 89 for months now with only positive results. .increased mpg, better throttle response. .NO detonation..etc. Once the car is tuned will be a different story, but 89 even on a base tune is fine, so 87 on a stock car is not a big deal. There is a member on here that has run 87 since day one I'm pretty sure. . (TelcoMan??) It's in his signature. .

 

I hope so...in regards to the carbon/normal condensate remark.

I'm glad to hear that others have driven the 91 octane recommended car with 87 octane as well without issues(even though it's not recommended to do ever)

Btw man, nice car -'88Porsche944, that's the rarest 944 in the U.S., only around 3k made... still in good condition? 5mt or 3speed auto?

 

Was auto, becoming 5mt and turbo. Eventually... long project.

 

no kidding, wondering what the stock internals can handle on that with FI, good luck with getting everything swapped/turbo added bud

 

engine is undergoing a full rebuild, RARST forged rods, turbo pistons.... will be balanced and bulletproof.

Turbo brakes, Koni suspension

Interior redone with manual sport seats from a 1983 944..fully done car...someday

 

GOOD UPDATE: Poured some BG44k fuel system cleaner into a full tank of gas, performed italian tune-up(revved engine at 4-5k+ consistently for about 18-20 miles in 2nd, 3rrd, 4th on a 55 mph open highway near my house, and saw noticeable improvements in the low end the next day after the injectors heat soaked overnight.

Car is feeling a touch lighter, more consistent through the low rpm. I'm at a half tank now, and I think I might run it hard again towards the 1/4 tank mark, change oil/filter, and see where we stand. Thoughts?

links to videos with car in idle revving with raw fuel or condensate coming out of exhaust below. forgot to mention, the engine performs/sounds well on the dyno AND in park.


After driving engine in 4th at 4500 rpm consistent for 8 miles

 

Hi everyone, hope your Holidays went well. The engine has blown on the car. I would like to thank everyone for helping me out and lending the info they have thus far.

I was driving home in 10 degree weather the other day, started to hear what sounded like the timing chain slapping off of the inside of the timing cover, and pulled over to the side of the road. While idling on the side of the road, the engine started to run very erratic.

I started hearing noises coming from the drivers side wheel well that was metal on metal slapping and shut the engine off. I had the car towed to a mechanic friend of mine for diagnosis. We took the oil pan off and found chunks of the connecting rod (one of the weakest parts of this engine from what I've read).

The engine is toast at this point.

My friend will swap the engine for $1000.

Now my question to everyone, do you know of a decent used engine that I can get with low miles(40k-60k) that is not JDM, because apparently JDM will not pass emissions in America?

Also, can I swap to a Rev up version of the VQ35DE without replacing anything additional or having to modify anything?

 

Not only since day one but almost all of the 171796 miles on my previous 06 G35 6 speed manual except when I ran a one month test of 91 and another month test of 93 octane carefully recording my MPG back when my daily commute was 2k miles/month.
Those two months of testing turned out to be a total waste of money, and there was no MPG increase or any noticeable increase in performance.
Back to regular 87 octane ever since saving thousands of dollars in fuel costs.

Telcoman

 

Hi everyone, hope your Holidays went well. The engine has blown on the car. I would like to thank everyone for helping me out and lending the info they have thus far.

I was driving home in 10 degree weather the other day, started to hear what sounded like the timing chain slapping off of the inside of the timing cover, and pulled over to the side of the road. While idling on the side of the road, the engine started to run very erratic.

I started hearing noises coming from the drivers side wheel well that was metal on metal slapping and shut the engine off. I had the car towed to a mechanic friend of mine for diagnosis. We took the oil pan off and found chunks of the connecting rod (one of the weakest parts of this engine from what I've read).

The engine is toast at this point.

My friend will swap the engine for $1000.

Now my question to everyone, do you know of a decent used engine that I can get with low miles(40k-60k) that is not JDM?