So, just so everyone is on the same page.

The car is knocking UNDER LOAD at low rpm, and the ECU is responding by pulling timing until the 4500-5000 RPM mark(where the knock subsides considerably).

I am going to fill my tank with 110 unleaded octane fuel, and see if the knock lessens, or gets eliminated altogether.

If the knock does lessen, and the car adjusts neutralizes/advances timing on the low end, then I believe a street tune UNDER LOAD is required (and correct me if I'm wrong, should be given for free after a dyno run to ensure the power made on the dyno is translated onto the pavement)

If the knock stays the same, I'm going to swap out the ECU.

Let me know if anyone has any suggestions

 

So I just grabbed some 110 Octane Unleaded Sunoco Race Fuel from the the NY/MA border

I had about 1/4 tank(3-4) gallons of 93 Sunoco Pump Gas at the time of fillup

I added 13.3 gallons of 110 Octane Unleaded Sunoco Race Fuel (Filled tank)

This put me at ~108 octane for the first run, which appears to have completely eliminated the knock, but diminished my high end power considerably, and didn't show much change in low end other than smoothness(were looking for responsiveness).... gas pedal still needed to pushed halfway to the floor in order for the car to start moving from a stand still (see attached 108 octane runs from Saturday)

I then waited for my tank to reach 3/4 full and put an additional 3-4 gallons of 93 Sunoco Pump Gas in until completely full. This dropped us down to ~103 Octane mark. Again, the knock seems to be completely eliminated other than a small handful of -13 signals, and the responsiveness throughout the RPM range feels a touch better, car feels lighter, and power on the top is almost restored to that of 93 octane level output.

I am going to wait for the tank to get down to 3/4 full again, and do one last data log in the ~98 Octane range. I cant wait to see this log, because we may pick knock back up here due to the lowered octane.

Just a thought also, the TPS voltages seem to jump from 1.00 v range to the 4.00 v range within the 3300 RPM - 4000RPM area....and what is happening with the timing at WOT??? It's at 40+, then -13? it's all over the place... just thought I should mention. Lastly, the Evap Voltage seems to only display in the 1-4500 rpm range, and I have a sneaking suspicion that my evap purge canister may be clogged or be causing this issue.... Let me know if you know how to delete the egr without engine/cockpit smelling like fuel...

Also, thanks for any input.... headed to Evans tuning in Pennsylvania after this mess is a lil better understood

will upload attachments soon

 

Does this motor consume an excessive amount of oil? It doesn't just have to be a timing issue for knock, when was the last time you had the intake manifold apart to look for oil puddles in the center since oil in the mix lowers the octane of the combustion.

 

Yes, the engine does consume oil a little bit faster than I am accustomed to seeing when the engine was stock. In fact, the old motor that had the connecting rods fail, and started to consume oil very fast just before the engine stopped working altogether.

I recently replaced the knock sensor/knock sensor harness to alleviate the P0328 code we had discovered after installing the new engine. (this required intake manifold/plenum/lower plenum, and injector/fuel rail to be removed, and I didnt see any puddles of oil unfortunately)

Again, this engine is fairly new(50k mi JDM), and happened to come with a P0328 code(bad harness/bad knock sensor) which were both replaced. However, the original sluggish responsiveness at low rpm/4500 rpm magic wake up where all power/responsiveness is restored magically, still continues to be THE issue that no one has been able to figure out an answer too...

I will be swapping the ECU after my fuel octane drops back down to 93 to see if that resolves THE issue, as we have now confirmed that eliminating the knock we saw in the 93 octane range does not give me any improved responsiveness/power output in the low range, and the car still starts performing properly at the 4500 rpm mark.

 

Hey Everyone, this is my last post. I can't keep trying to fix this car at this point due to money, time, and sanity.

I just spoke with one of the only people helping that knows what they're doing with cars, and we had a miserable back and forth about the egr/evap system possibly being a culprit to the issue at hand, to where I was blessed with a "good luck" nod after explaining that the evap system acts like an EGR in the sense that the vented tank gasses are delivered back into the intake manifold via the purge solenoid valve, which is attached directly to a nipple on the manifold that is RIGHT NEXT TO THE THROTTLE PLATE that others have deleted entirely....Again, this and many other suggestions have been shot down in regards to the problem with this car by many experts of the car world...and it's just at the point where....dude...I get that I am constantly wrong when it to comes to suggesting this car's issue....but if I'm wrong, pardon my language, but who the **** has the answer............................................ .................................................. .........................????

Total Damage
15 car dealerships visited for exact symptoms (Infiniti, Nissan, Custom Performance Shops, Meineke, Midas, mom and pop shops, electricians)
Engine Dead
Brain tired of wasting this much time on a hobby/machine that is deteriorating by the second

Nothing logical seems to work, so I will simply swap the ECU as it is the last remaining electrical component, see if that works...if not, car is sold...(if someone will even buy it ... I kid you not, minivans are dusting you from a stand still, and taunting you on the highway...it's the most embarrassing **** you ever want to deal with FAST LOOKING CAR FAST SOUNDING CAR, GOES NOWHERE FAST)

 

Was this a salvage title vehicle or was this vehicle ever involved in a flood?
Did you ever have it inspected by an Infiniti dealer prior to purchase and have them run the VIN number to provide you a history of the vehicle and how many previous owners this vehicle had?
Was the original purchase of this vehicle made in another state from which you are currently living?

Answers might explain why you are unable to fix this vehicle?

I just read thru this entire thread. I find it amazing with all the time, money, aggravation, swapping out an engine you were never willing to pay a highly trained Infiniti tech to hook up a Consult lll, drive your vehicle and report to you what the Consult tool found?

Telcoman