Tip: Removing rusted, rounded, and stubborn splined studs.
#1
06-24-2017, 03:21 AM
Tip: Removing rusted, rounded, and stubborn splined studs.
I took my G to my mechanic last week for my inspection, which it failed due to a stuck caliper and "broken" y-pipe.
I replaced my y-pipe three years ago with a Megan Racing one, but apparently it's rotted through. I didn't see anything wrong with it, but he's never tried ripping me off, so I'm putting a new one on.
The stock CATs and stock Y-Pipe have pressed in splined studs. They are basically the same as the wheel studs. All of my bolts/nuts were stripped and I could not get them off again like the first time. I used torch, penetrating oil, wax, ATF/acetone, hammer, and anything else I could think off. I was going to take it to Midas/Meineke, because I didn't feel like messing with it anymore or get stuck drilling them out.
After going through my tools and spending a few hours thinking how to save myself money. I came up with the following and was able to remove the studs on my own with some tools from Harbor Freight. These are tools I would recommend having anyway:
4.5 in angle grinder and 4.5 in cut off wheel (20 bucks / 7 bucks)
Ball joint press - The black one that looks like a small clamp (20-30)
1/2 in ratchet and 19 in socket
I cut the nuts off the studs on both sides. Pulled the flanges apart, put the flange of the old y-pipe over the protruding stud, and then put the ball joint press over the y-pipe flange. Cranked down with my ratchet and the studs popped right out of the CATs. They came out in less time then it took to jack the car up.
No drilling required and you can use probably use this method on wheel studs as well.
I replaced my y-pipe three years ago with a Megan Racing one, but apparently it's rotted through. I didn't see anything wrong with it, but he's never tried ripping me off, so I'm putting a new one on.
The stock CATs and stock Y-Pipe have pressed in splined studs. They are basically the same as the wheel studs. All of my bolts/nuts were stripped and I could not get them off again like the first time. I used torch, penetrating oil, wax, ATF/acetone, hammer, and anything else I could think off. I was going to take it to Midas/Meineke, because I didn't feel like messing with it anymore or get stuck drilling them out.
After going through my tools and spending a few hours thinking how to save myself money. I came up with the following and was able to remove the studs on my own with some tools from Harbor Freight. These are tools I would recommend having anyway:
4.5 in angle grinder and 4.5 in cut off wheel (20 bucks / 7 bucks)
Ball joint press - The black one that looks like a small clamp (20-30)
1/2 in ratchet and 19 in socket
I cut the nuts off the studs on both sides. Pulled the flanges apart, put the flange of the old y-pipe over the protruding stud, and then put the ball joint press over the y-pipe flange. Cranked down with my ratchet and the studs popped right out of the CATs. They came out in less time then it took to jack the car up.
No drilling required and you can use probably use this method on wheel studs as well.