2005 G35 (SEDAN) my car wont start and cannot find why. changed camshaft sensor AND crankshaft sensors. car will start sometimes but the code p0021 will always come back. when i clear the code the car starts right up then i will try again and nothing will crank but wont run. its not the battery either connected jumper cables and still nothing. when the car does run it seems fine with no problems. idles fine around 650rpm pls help!!

 

Follow the troubleshooting steps in the FSM

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...5_G35_Sedan/ec

Start reading on page EC-181

DTC P0011, P0021 IVT CONTROL
EC-185
EC
Revision: 2005 July
2005 G35 Sedan
4. Provide 12V DC between intake valve timing control solenoid
valve terminals and then interrupt it. Make sure that the plunger
moves as shown in the figure.
CAUTION:
Do not apply 12V DC continuously for 5 seconds or more.
Doing so may result in damage to the coil in intake valve
timing control solenoid valve.
If NG, replace intake valve timing control solenoid valve.
NOTE:
Always replace O-ring when intake valve timing control
solenoid valve is removed.
Removal and Installation
ABS00DES
INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
Refer to
EM-68, "
TIMING CHAIN
"
.
Telcoman

 

I'm just wondering, could it just be the starter because I read a thread on here and somebody seems to have the same problem as me but I'm not sure if that's the case and I don't want to go out buy a new starter and find out I just wasted a few hundred on a part that I don't need but thank you for the help.

 

If the engine cranks but won't start it obviously is not a starter problem.
Check for spark
Check for fuel

Telcoman

 

the car is able to start though so I don't think it can be fuel or spark related because the car runs very smoothly when it does. I just can't get the car to start every time, I can probably start is a few times but then it would die and the check engine light comes on and when I put it in a scanner I get the P0021 code again and again

 

Did you ever bother to read the FSM link that I provided to you in a previous post and follow the troubleshooting steps?

If you are unable to do this perhaps you should just have your vehicle towed to the nearest Infiniti dealer, request a loaner vehicle and have the dealer call you when they find the trouble and fix it.

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...5_G35_Sedan/ec


"TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
PFP:00004
Trouble Diagnosis Introduction
ABS00DFI
INTRODUCTION
The engine has an ECM to control major systems such as fuel control, ignition control, idle air control system, etc. The ECM accepts
input signals from sensors and instantly drives actuators. It is essential that both input and output signals are proper and stable. At the
same time, it is important that there are no malfunctions such as vacuum leaks, fouled spark plugs, or other malfunctions with the engine.

It is much more difficult to diagnose an incident that occurs intermittently rather than continuously. Most intermittent incidents are
caused by poor electric connections or improper wiring. In this case,
careful checking of suspected circuits may help prevent the replacement of good parts.

A visual check only may not find the cause of the incidents. A road
test with CONSULT-II (or GST) or a circuit tester connected should
be performed. Follow the WORK FLOW on
EC-97, "
WORK FLOW
"
.
Before undertaking actual checks, take a few minutes to talk with a
customer who approaches with a driveability complaint. The customer can supply good information about such incidents, especially
intermittent ones. Find out what symptoms are present and under
what conditions they occur. A DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET like the
example on
EC-100, "
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
"should be used.
Start your diagnosis by looking for conventional malfunctions first.
This will help troubleshoot driveability malfunctions on an electronically controlled engine vehicle."

Telcoman

 

All the starter does is engage the flywheel, then turn the motor over and then disengage the flywheel. If the motor is cranking when you turn the key, then it's definitely not the starter unless it's turning over really slowly.

 

sorry ive been busy with work and havent gotten to it. i will certainly fallow these steps and try to diagnose the problem thank you so much once again. if i have any questions will come back to the thread thank you.

 

Could be a dirty/faulty sensor, old oil, low oil pressure, or your timing. Take the sensor off, clean it out, and then do some resistance checks.

Pins 1 & 2 - 7 - 7.5 Ohms
Pings 1/2 to ground - No continuity

Provide +12V to pin 2
Ground to pin 1

It should click don't do it for more than a few seconds.

I'd also make sure your coolant temp sensor and speed sensor work correctly as well. It relies on signals from those sensors also.

 

What does the cranking sound like? Mine sounds like a mechanical whirr because... well my starter is broken and a new one is on the ways

 

His car dkes start though and dies, so i don't think his starter is the problem.

when my starter went out it would catch about every third crank. The bendix on mine was messed up it would flop in and out.

 

the car is able to start and won't die. The first time I start the car it will always start and now it would even start after the 3rd or 4th time but after that the car is just cranking but not able to start unless I leave it for 5 mins or so then it's able to start again so now I really just think it's the starter

 

we seem to have the same problem. Please update me if you get the problem fix and if the starter fixed it thanks

 

You can take the starter off and bench test it. The bendix should pop out, spin, and then spin back in. If it's not popping out until every 4th or 5th time that could be your problem.

 

If the starter solenoid\bendix is suspected, sometimes you can take a long piece of wood, put one end on the starter and give the other end a good whack with a hammer. It will often free up the stuck parts so you can get the car started. This is not a fix, but a temporary way to get you out of a jam if needed and also a good way to flush out that it is indeed your starter.

Usually you'll hear a loud click when you turn the key but no starter motor action when it's stuck.