Rip scragglemonster.

 

If it was my vehicle and I was just going to take a wild guess I'd start with by doing 3 things (since I think you have two problems, check the third anyways, all are free tests if you have the heat gun and IR scan thermometer).

1. Clean the MAF THOROUGHLY, could be sending the wrong data and it's notorious for causing poor idle quality and various rpm issue, could be what's causing the stalling.

2. Remove the starter, have it tested WHILE HOT, this is a pain but can be done with a heat gun and an IR scan thermometer, get the solenoid up to 180-200 degrees and see if it still cranks, I suspect your starter is failing or intermittent when hot.

3. Hydro test the battery if it's unsealed, otherwise just the load bank test they do at a parts house.

Another thing I would do is install a fuel pressure gauge kit under the hood, if the issue happens again check for 55psi, could be the fuel pump is on the way out. There is no fuel rail/line schrader valve port, need to buy a kit that adds one.

Check out the factory service manual here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/inf...e-manuals.html

Starts at the FWD document.

Also I'd get it on an OBD2 scanner, log data, look for things out of whack while driving.

 

1. Clean the MAF very thoroughly, and throttle body.

2. Haven't removed the starter but car crank fine, both hot and cold just doesn't turn over when hot.

3.haven't tested the battery and I don't know how old it is, I'll try that.

4. Haven't tested fuel pressure but I did go ahead and put in a new fuel pump when I bought the car so I highly doubt that's the issue. But I'll test it incase.

I have an obd2 reader with live data.. only thing that shoots out at me , is the short term fuel %, it's running a little rich. -20+% , I'm surprised I haven't got an 02 sensor code.

I went ahead and bought all 4 cam sensors and crank sensor from rockauto, actual OEM ones yo get rid of my cheap china **** ones. I also bought new cat delete downpipes, but I'm still waiting for it all to come on. I'm going to put them all in and see what happens.

Cats ARE rattling, not very loud but enough to tell and I get the rotten egg smell and hardly ANY exhaust fumes coming out the tailpipes when it's hot.

 

Cats are definitely shot so... it might be the entire problem.

Yeah that fuel trim is way off, mine sits at about 5-8%. Could be wonky sensors but I'd wait until that failed cat is replaced and see if that corrects the problem.

I suspect the poor fuel trim is what caused the cat to fail though, I've never personally had the issue but the fuel pressure regulator has given many people problem in the past. Have you pulled all the spark plugs to see what condition they're in?

EDIT: Makes sense now about the smoke coming from the oil fill cap, excessive backpressure from a failed cat = excessive gasses being pushed into the crankcase.

 

Exactly, what I was thinkin. Next week I get the cat delete pipes so once I put thme in, I'll get back. Hopefully it'll help someone in the future if they go through the same ****.

 

Hey, that's a pretty neat game of Legos you got there. Of course I have a hard time believing you were the head-engineer on that buuld (especially cuz you haven't grasped the concept that an internal combustion engine is an internal combustion engine), but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, as it's not that hard, it's just a lot of work.

Anyway, back to the VQ, did you want me to come fix your car for you or...? I'll have it up and ready in a jiff'

I've even got a spare set of cats if you wanna test the cat theory.

 

See I love how helpful and friendly people are on this forum!

 

Lmao what a ****ing idiot... I'm the ONLY engineer in my project car, using a real engine. Only reason I got a G was cuz I like the body style and I'm just waiting tIL the engine blows completely to drop an LS, which I can do on your shitty early 2000's cars for you if you'd like...

Funny how jut 2 years ago, you were asking questions about similar issues I'm having....

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/448363-question-those-you-who-ve-had-camshaft-crank-sensor-replaced.html


Now u think ur some ****ing guru... gtfo lmao

 

Settling in....

 

Ok, if you actually read that thread, it was about a (still unexplained) power blip around 4.5krpm, you cuck.my question strictly had to do with whether or not it could have something to do with the sensor, cuz I had not (at that time) had a sensor go out. This has nothing to do with finding and fixing a sensor (that **** is easy regardless of whether or not you ever figure it out).

The 4.5krpm blip is still a mystery, cucktard. Try again.

Again, yer little Lego project is cute. Let me know if you want me to fix yer car for you.

 

Go thru every thread I've ever made and see if any one has ever been answered. I have definitely fixed all problems myself. Infact the only help I've ever gotten on here was from seymour4 concerning tuning and wrathernaut for some stereo issues I was having.

You know for someone who builds supercars (apparently), you sure don't bring much knowledge with you on some very standard engineering.

 

 

Please explain to me where my knowledge was supposedly lacking???... I'm sorry but all my cars hAve ls engines, and none have ever stalled on me, one have 100k miles and the other 145k miles..

Again, I've fixed everything myself on this car including taking apart the whole front of the engine to replace the rear timing cover gaskets, which was throwing the horrid p0021 code and was infact causing my low oil pressure... and also replaced the timing chain while I was in there..

If you want to know what the inside of your timing cover looks like since I'm sure all you've done is change ur air filter, then here's a pick of mine...


Cam sensors were a joke to replace, all extremely easy, problem was I replaced with shitty china ones, not knowing this car is super sensitive apparently.

Replacing my fuel pump... also easy, only cuz at 157k miles, it was going to need one eventually.

The car always had spark, always had fuel pressure, and after replacing everything..no codes were thrown... so I was thinking something specific to VQ engines was going on and thats y I started this thread.

I removed my cats on both of my other cars for performance and sound cuz I don't have emissions here. So I didn't consider the cats until I smelled the rotten eggs and saw smoke coming back up from the oil fill cap, which happened for the first time just recently the last time I drove it.

Ive put literally 1800 mIles on this car and i bet i have done more **** in the short 4 months of owning this car than you have in whatever amount of time you've had yours...

So please tell me again where my knowledge is lacking??


This thread has gone to ****, like maNY other threads on many other forums cuz of people like u... honestly who gives a **** If people ask questions that have apparently been asked before?? Maybe in their search they didn't find any solid answers to their current problems. If you don't ****ing like it, then all u have to do is keep scrolling... what kind of joy do u get out of being an idiot and ruining someone's thread? These forums are for people to talk about the common interest that we all have, so if u don't like talking about ur car...then u picked the wrong one or ur just a lonely miserable **** that needs either a life or a new hobby.

 

Lol, I'm not gonna fukc with you no more, man.

Have you checked for cracks in your intake tube from the throttle body? Any unmetered air (between the MAF and TB) can cause f'ed up fluctuations in idle, and cause stalling

Beyond that, how well did you clean the TB? At this age, you REALLY need to get down with the hinges on the butterfly. Like toothbrush, and seriously caustic cleansers. Also, have you pulled the plugs? This could tell you a lot about the cars condition between the wiring harness and condition of plugs

Best thing about the VQ is that the motor itself is nearly bulletproof, and almost all of your problems are due to accessories and/or sensors. If you've got fuel and spark there SHOULD be no problem (obviously), but how strong are they? If it's starting, but stalling, you can rule out the starter.

What kind of plugs are you running?

Also, have you dug out the ECU? It would be a very unlikely source of your problem, but not out of the question.

Most ACTUAL MOTOR ISSIUES on these cars are very rare. I know you've done a lot to remedy the problem, but none of them are unworthy of going back over your work. That is almost exclusively where all of our problems have been solved.

 

Ha ok now we're getting somewhere.

I've already checked the tube completely, it's fine.

Ivs already scrubbed the **** out of the throttle body with a toothbrush, turn the key and put it in first to keep the butterfly open, toothbrush turned out black as ****! But it'd definitely a super clean throttle body.

All plugs are still in pretty good shape, all gapped at the factory spec of .43, maybe I'll change them since I don't know the history of the car they might be old and they're cheap.

All I've done with the ecu, is check to make sure it was still getting power after it got hot and caused the stall , which it was. Lol I even put it in the fridge to cool it down while the engine was still hot to see if it was messing up when it was warm.

I'm really leaning towards the clogged cats literally being the source to the complete problem.. these damn cat deletes can't come soon enough.