Last year i had the camshaft sensor passenger replaced as i had a CEL. Now car stalled on me randomly so i knew sensor hit the crapper again. So i replaced the sensor and car started right up. Next day driving around my pedal response disappears and hard start and stalls start to occur. So i limped it home left it and it cranked back up but with CEL again. So pulled the codes and it pulled a MAF code. So research and apparently moisture makes that code pop up so i left negative unplugged overnight and bam car started right up. But now i am getting completely random stalls without a CEL. has the same symptoms as the camshaft sensor but i dont get a CEL. Seems to be happening once the car has been used alot and engine gets hot. any suggestions??

 

Did you use a OEM sensor?

Telcoman

 

Do you have an aftermarket air intake?

 

No OEM, most electric parts are made by the same exact person just different labeling etc..

So car was running fine for a couple days after i used a MAF sensor cleaner... Couple days later went to go take the kids somewhere and the car started sputtering but not shutting off. i stopped pulled over let it idle hit the gas and seemed to accelerate fine. once i put it into gear and start moving a couple seconds later starts the sputter.

not getting any CEL for the sensors and seems to happen randomly.... if i let the car sit she will run fine until the same issue comes up again. i did take a towel and degresser and opened the butterflies to the throttle body to clean it up a little. Plugs are at around 20k miles and i am due for an oil change.

 

Non-OEM sensors are notorious for failing on this engine, they are definitely NOT just "same person different sticker" like you suggest. Perhaps if you are comparing two aftermarket parts but definitely not for an OEM to non comparison.

Also, working the butterfly by hand runs a risk of damaging the sensitive throttle actuator motor, also throws the engine out of calibration sometimes and requires an idle air reset.

I recommend doing a reset of the idle air and if the issue still persists going back to an OEM cam phase sensor.

 

The previous sensor i bought on Rockauto and last about a year, the most current sensor i bought at Advance with a Lifetime warranty so i could exchange it if it ever goes bad.

Heres a description of what occurred cause it was all at the same time kinda of.
So got CEL and stalls, knew it was the cam sensor. so i changed it and started up fine. i took my intake tub off to clean and cleaned the MAF tube, well my compressor had moisture in it so i got a CEL right away. i went ahead and cleaned the TB butterflies with a towel and degreasor and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner seemed to work for a couple days but than the car just starts sputtering all of a sudden and continues to stutter until it rest and than seems to work fine again for a while and than the issue comes right back. any ideas??

also while i was under the car found an oil leak coming from the oil cooler so looks like i have a gasket their to replace as well.

 

i actually just took off the crankshaft sensor and noticed that their was a little bit of shavings on it, like cooper looking and metal in color. sensor has a scratch on it so obviously was messed with before.

 

Which service engine code is it throwing?

 

thats the bad part none...
the last code it threw was the MAF malfunction which was because i had left it unplugged the first time. so i plugged back in left battery disconnected for a little and seemed to work just fine.. until the random stalling happens. the symptoms are almost the same as the cam sensor going out, the accelerater stops working unless i start fanning it, car is stuttering, i hear popping i guess from to much fuel. as of recently i can put in park and it idles fine which before it just shut off. but the most recent time i let rest for a bit symptoms disappeared and the minute i started driving it about half a mile down the road the stutter picks up again and limped it home. havent driven it since.

 

That actually sounds like a failing O2 sensor or possibly a damaged catalytic converter. Check the O2 to make sure the value is rapidly fluctuating (Google to see what I'm talking about) and remove the cat and inspect for any melting or other obvious signs of damage.

It sounds like the problem only happens when the ECU is in closed loop mode once the O2 sensors are up to temperature.

 

wouldnt a o2 sensor issue throw a CEL??

 

Not if it's just sending the wrong signal. Errors occur when there is an open or short circuit or values outside the expected range.

 

So i changed the Crankshaft sensor, oil, oil o-ring from oil cooler, air filter and coolant.
Have driven about 120 miles and havent had any issues so far.

 

And i am back at a loss......drove about 50 miles out to the coast and while driving that way i felt the car jolt twice at about 80 m.p.h and it went away within a couple of second. but than literally the minute i got off the exit the idle started fluctuating and tried to stay alive but eventually died. couldnt turn it back on. So let it rest for about 2 hours as we were heading to a birthday event for my daughter and when we came back i plugged battery back in as i had left it unplugged and the car drove the whole way home perfectly fine. any ideas??? i'm assuming something is warming up and causing this whole issue but i have no clue since no CEL are coming on.

Would a bad MAF sensor cause this???

 

Bump.

Did you ever figure it out? I got the same problem after taking the cams out to replace a lifter. Idles fine until it just randomly dies, and will drive fine until it randomly dies. And no cel or codes.