My '06 6MT threw a rod about two years ago, and has been sitting in a corner of the shop since then. I had a difficult time finding a rev-up engine that didn't have metal shavings in the oil pan. One engine that I bought locally - I freakin' hate Craig's list now - had two spun bearings. I've no idea how it didn't throw a rod.

So, I now have a non-rev JDM engine from an '05 350Z. It came with the harness and computer. But, there are some differences which I'm concerned about. I'm using the harness and ECU that came with the new engine, mostly because the new engine is a non-rev. I imagine the computer would flip out if it couldn't talk to the (missing) solenoids.

1. Obviously (in retrospect), JDM engines are from right-hand drive cars. This means that the starter is on the other side of the engine. (Fortunately, the VQ block and transmission are built to take the starter on either side.). I used the alternator / starter cable from the old harness, and extended the new harness for the second starter connection.

2. My car has RAS. The donor car did not. There's no connector on the new harness to go to the steering solenoid valve. Can I just disable this? I don't really care about RAS. But, maybe it's not for RAS, since all of that crap is in the back. I'm really not sure what the steering solenoid valve is for. Any insight?


3. I assume that the keys are going to have to be reprogrammed to match the new ECU. I'd rather not tow this thing to the dealer and pay $$$ to get that done. Suggestions on how to tackle this?

And, before y'all start in with the criticism: yes, I realize that it would've been much easier to just get a rev engine, but, as I said, I couldn't find one that wasn't trashed, too high mileage, or ludicrously expensive. It didn't make sense to spend $3k on an engine for a car that's only worth about $6k.

In a perfect world, I could use the old computer and harness. :/

Do y'all have any suggestions on addressing the RAS and key issues?

 

Why not just swap the heads and intake from your original engine? That's the only thing that's the only major difference between the rev and non-rev motors. It's not that hard to do the takedown and assembly, grab the FSM online and it shows the exact location for the timing chain markings for each chain, thorough and detailed assembly instructions are in there.

Then all you need is a maybe some head work (pressure test at a shop and replace any valve guides as needed, new cam bearings if you had metal in the oil from the thrown rod, deck the heads if not flat), gasket kit, maybe a timing chain kit if you had high miles on yours, a water pump (cause why not), thermostat (which needs to be replaced even on the low mile donor motor) and you save a WHOLE LOTTA headache rewiring the ECU pin layout / main wiring harness, keep the RAS which is awesome btw, keep the +18hp from the rev-up motor.

The amount of money you save from not having to BUY another ECU (they're different), have the dealer reprogram it AND your keys / BCM (only the dealer can do the ECU/BCM, select locksmiths in your area might have the software for the keys) you'll probably be breaking even and not sacrificing -18 hp for the sake of downgrading motors.

 

Cleric has a point, the revup oil pump is the only difference in the blocks. Swap the heads and oil pump from revup over to new block. Maybe do the minor machine work needed to use HR head gaskets, done. No janky rewiring needed.

The car has been sitting, so it's not like your worried about down time.

I wish I had RAS, sell me the shell for cheap, lol.

 

I really don't have the time to swap the heads, and I'm fairly certain that at least one of them is trashed. I'm already over-budget on this.

Although getting the car running hasn't been a priority - sitting for two years and all of that - it's become a priority as I need a second car with a back seat. My wife is getting tired of me stealing her Escalade all the time, and my Solstice has about enough cargo space for a back pack, if I'm not carrying a passenger.

Another thought: I could get an ECU and harness from a pre-rev car with RAS.

Actually, I don't think the solenoid is related to RAS. Just that speed-dependent steering assist, perhaps.

Obviously, swapping the heads would be the *correct* way to this, but in this case I just need the most expeditious way. I've rebuilt a number of domestic engines in my time, but the VQ is not a simple motor.

 

It's no more difficult than any other OHC v-bank motor, I don't really know why people make it out to be an impossible task?

It's actually easier than some of the newest motors, no direct injection and VVL to screw with.