Hello everyone, recently I bought an 06 G35 coupe 6MT and the cluch was on its last leg. I bought an Action stage 3 clutch and single mass flywheel to replace the old oem setup. Took it into a shop to have it changed out and when picking it up I first noticed the car had a new hard start. Took about 4x as long to turn over. I also got a Crankshaft position sensor CEL light come on. The car stalls when driving and has to be started again. Took it back to the mechanic and he said it may be the sensor, I didn't think so because the old one worked fine with the old clutch kit, but we did it anyway. Swapped the sensor with one from Oreileys and car still has a hard start and throws the code. We cleared it, drove around for a bit and it didn't return as a confirmed code but stays in the system as a pending code. We were out of time so I drove the car home (3 miles away) and I parked it in the garage. It sat for about 4 days while I was away and upon return it started up just fine, no hard start. I drive it half a mile to see if the light comes back on and it starts to jerk back and forth at 3500 Rpm and wont exceed it. I looked for codes again and I get the same pending P0335 (crankshaft sensor) as well as 2 new pending codes, p1078 and p1084 (exhaust valve timing control position sensors) Upon my drive home it jerks more and more at lower RPMs until it comes to a stall 2 houses down. I had to push it home because it would not start after that, just kept cranking. I cleared the codes to see if the p1078 and p1084 were temporary and when I read them again it was just the pending p0335 code. What do you guys think is going on? I have read many other threads and contacted some G35 and Z specific mechanics and they recommend I have the flywheel correctly aligned because it may have been aligned improperly.

Would all of my symptoms be the result of a misaligned flywheel? usually it just hard starts, but now after it started jerking sometimes it doesn't at all. I have read a lot on this issue and many get just the p0335 CEL after a clutch job, typically JWT, and its the flywheel. But Im getting that along with 2 other codes that I haven't found a whole lot on. I just went to try and start it again and it just cranked and cranked and cranked. I appreciate all of the help and advice. I just want this thing running so I can drive it.

 

Our cars are sensitive with sensors and a lot of them don't play nice with aftermarket. I'd get an OEM crank sensor and replace the O'Reilly's one. Clean it up really good and see if you can return it. Cheapest I can find is here:


It's an easy DIY replacement, you shouldn't need to go back to the mechanic to install it. Read through this thread for more info. https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...-question.html

 

Thanks for the reply Blue Dream. I can definitely do the sensor swap by myself. I just don't want the mechanic to pull the excuse that the issues arise from something I did and its not his responsibility. I'm ok with getting an OEM sensor since they are going to pay for it if it is the issue, since it wasn't an issue before I gave them the car. Would this one sensor really cause my CEL to throw those 3 codes and behave the way it is?

 

I'm leaning towards misalignment of the flywheel honestly but if it were me I'd toss in an OEM cam phase sensor just to rule it out and also ensure it won't fail for another 100k or so. Did you ask your mechanic specifically if he got the alignment pin to match the flywheel perfectly? You probably haven't gotten the rpm's up very high on it anyways due to the clutch break-in time so you wouldn't even realize that it's missing the entire upper rpm band.

 

OP, this is the answer to your problem %100 sure as I dealt with this long time ago. Return the O'reilly sensors and put back the old oem nissan sensors.

 

And return the clutch and flywheel also and use an OEM one.
Good for 200k miles if properly driven

Telcoman

 

They need to remove the clutch and reinstall the flywheel correctly. There's a bunch of threads of people with the same sensor problems after installing a clutch, the cause is an incorrectly aligned flywheel.

My crankshaft didn't have a pin sticking out, so I had to look to make sure the flywheel was installed correctly. Some engines have the pin sticking out, so it's impossible to mess up.

 

Yes OP I too own a 2006 6MT and I can verify that my pin was NOT sticking out either so it would be completely possible to have it installed wrong, just have to visually check your work and look through that hole to verify you did install the flywheel correctly.

 

Thank you everyone for responding. I did as most of you recommended and decided to drop the trans and take a look at the flywheel that was put on. To my surprise the pin was there and it was aligned on the dowel pin in the crankshaft. Blew my mind and I wasn't too sure what else to do since that's the only thing that changed between no symptoms to now symptoms. Luckily I still had the old burnt dual mass flywheel and decided to compare the 2 on a flat surface. I found out that the teeth the crank sensor reads were different 2 ways in the aftermarket single mass flywheel.
1st, the slits were the same distance apart from each other on both, but the place at which they would begin before the large gap on the flywheel teeth markings wasn't the same relative to the dowel pin hole.
2nd, the plate in which these slots are was 3mm closer to the crankshaft when mounted than the oem flywheel. That was effectively half of the thickness in difference of the plate.

The soution came when I opted for an exedy NF04 single mass flywheel and replaced that one in the place of the previous one. Put everything back together and tied her up and everything was good. All problems gone.

The exedy flywheel, like the previous aftermarket flywheel had slits that weren't aligned the same as the oem one but the disk in which they lie was the exact same distance from the crankshaft as the dual mass flywheel. So the slits being a little bit ahead didn't matter much but the issue was in that 3mm difference in that plate the sensor reads.

Edit I also put the oem sensor back in and returned the other one.

 

Glad you got it all squared away, sounds like a pain in the ***. Exactly which flywheel (part number if you have it) was the one that did NOT work?

Was the one that didn't work an ALUMINUM flywheel by chance?

 

I don't have the part number but the flywheel was a chromoly flywheel. I can post pictures later of both the oem dual mass flywheel as well as the aftermarket single mass that have me so many issues.

 

Awesome.

 

I have a slightly similiar issue.I recently replaced my OEM clutch with Exedy nsk1000 with the EFT chromoly flywheel. I posted my issue in another thread. However my issue is only the p0335 code and VDC slip lights. Car starts and drives fine and i replaced the sensor already. No hard starts or rough driving do you think i should be replacing the new aftermarket flywheek with an exedy NF04?

 

Replied to your post in the other thread.

 

Why are people not replacing the flywheel with an original dual mass DMF067?

Cost used to be prohibitive but these have now dropped in price by half, under $400 at RockAuto. Unkless you are building something for performance these cars are more liveable with a dual mass and installation is much easier.