I just did an overhaul on my suspension, new struts, Eibach lowering springs, Moog inner & outer tie rods, Moog front & rear end links, Moog front and rear sway bar bushings, Nismo front lower bushings, Mevotech front lower ball joints (well see how they hold up), SPC front and rear adjustable arms...ect.

The question is should the car be ok to drive to the alignment shop, or should I arrange to have it towed?

 

If it's fairly close to you and the car's VDC isn't freaking out you should be fine to drive it.

 

Stand behind the vehicle and look straight down the side of the tires, as long as it's not pointed out noticeable (toe) then it should be fine, camber doesn't really matter for a short trip. If it pulls hard, makes wierd noises from the tires, or as Blue said causes a VDC issue then just have it towed.

 

Buy Good Sam towing, it's 100% worth the cost. I've towed the G 3 times and the motorcycles twice in the past year for $79.99 each year. Unlimited miles if you are in the middle of nowhere to get you to a repair shop.

 

 

Back in high school the first 'major' car repair I did were the tie rods on my Civic. I didn't count the turns and drove to the alignment shop a few miles away, and it was so toe'd in that every time I went over road paint (crosswalk, stop line etc) you could hear the tires screeching. I was laughing so hard I had to pull over.

 

I installed toe arms (which replace the spring bucket) shortly after putting my coilovers in. Went on a test drive and the car freaked and threw VDC and SLIP lights. Went back and adjusted the toe to what looked good to my glorious eyeballs, and drove 50 miles to Charlotte no problem. As long as it's not super duper far out of spec, you can drive.

On a side note, if you want to get super technical you can park your car parallel to a wall, taking measurements to ensure that the car is perfectly parallel. Measure from the 'front' of the wheel to wall and the 'back' of the wheel to the wall, and adjust the toe until the measurement is the same. Then put the measuring tape on a specific spot on the tread (one on the front and one on the rear, similar to measuring the tire to the wall) on the adjusted tire, and measure over to the non-adjusted tire. Mess with the toe until those numbers are even. Your toe will be very close doing this. Helped a buddy do it to his S14 in his tiny garage at his apartment and we were 0.02 off between the 2 tires. Works well if you take the time, but is it really worth the time?