Hello interested persons from across the pond.

I just wondered if anyone could shed any light on my 2003 Skyline 350GT/G35 problem:
When happily driving along, the engine seemed to suddenly die, but it didn't completely cut out, just went on to tickover only. The throttle pedal being depressed did very little. I soon realised it has an electronic throttle and something had gone down. After managing to get the car to the pub car park 500 yards away on tickover only, I went in and phoned RAC recovery. Several pints later, they answered and I managed to persuade them to attend sooner than 2 hours. The RAC technician went through several tests, then tried to communicate with the car through the OBD socket. After telling him to try Nissan 350z, he got 4 codes all pointing to the throttle pedal sensor, relay or actuator. He pulled a few pipes which raised the revs to about 2000 and he followed me home. 4 miles on tickover was a bit slow at times.
I tested the Pedal Sensor resistance, which seemed fine, but I ordered one from China anyway as it was only £10 and I ordered a used Throttle actuator from the USA. I fitted the actuator with the original pedal sensor and ....no difference. So I fitted the new sensor as well, and still no difference.
I know the relay is working, so can anyone tell me what I'm missing

 

Just to verify you know how the system works, the gas pedal has 2 rheostat switches in it, as you press the throttle the voltage in them scales from 1 to 5 volts and this data goes directly back to the ECU. The ECU then sends signal to the throttle actuator motor which is that part on the side of the throttle body with the heatsink.

You can verify the pedal is working by a couple different ways, you can plug in an OBD2 scanner that will read real-time data and look at the throttle % being sent to the ECU. Another option to electrically TEST the pedal is to unplug, unbolt, and remove the pedal from the vehicle. Use a battery holder for 3x AA batteries which will apply roughly the 5v needed to one side of each switch while you use a digital multimeter to read the other side of the switch and watch the voltage scale from 1 to 5 volts as you press the pedal down.

It does sound like you have a problem with the APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) switch, do you have a picture of exactly what you replaced on the pedal assembly? It should have been this piece here.

 

After installing a new pedal switch you MUST perform the pedal closed learning function for the ECU, I recommend doing ALL the resets honestly. If you can't get it to work and the CEL doesn't flash like it should then you definitely have a problem with the pedal switch still since it doesn't recognize the wide-open-throttle signal to put it in reset mode.

http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html

 

Thanks Cleric.
The part I replaced on the pedal is exactly as your picture. I did find an article on the net showing how to test the sensor by just resistance and my original sensor seemed to be okay, but I replaced it when the replacement throttle actuator didn't make a difference.
I don't have a OBD scanner, so I have tried to go through the Learning Procedure manually, but the CEL didn't blink.
I think I need to get someone with a scanner. Will it need to have a Consult II interface though?

Many thanks for your help

 

No, I use a BAFX bluetooth OBD2 adapter and the app Torque Pro on my Android-based phone. Anything that can read those sensors will work but if you cannot get the CEL to flash and you were using a stopwatch to properly time the "pedal dance" method of resets then I strongly suspect something is wrong with the APP, just because it's new doesn't mean it actually works. You did do the APP relearn process first yes?