Door screw size

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Jun 28, 2018 | 11:51 PM
  #1  
Long story short, been chasing down door creaks/rattles, and I've discovered a stripped screw I need to replace. I don't have pictures, but it is the gold screw in the top left of the drivers door (from the inside), in the middle of the vertical rectangle that has two screws coming from the window side (I believe it's a screw used to adjust the window). Does anybody know the thread/length of this screw? The charts that Infiniti have aren't very easy to read for me.
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Jun 29, 2018 | 05:02 AM
  #2  
This seems to have a readable breakdown of inner door parts and an index of said parts. It's for an 03 coupe and I believe the parts are the same. If they're not just re-enter the correct year in the settings at the top of the page and go from there. To find this chart I just Googled "screw for inside door shell g35 coupe" and opened the second link on the list of results. https://parts.infinitiusa.com/nissan...7705&siteid=15

If you can't figure it out at least point us in the direction of the correct screw/area of the door you need.
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Jun 30, 2018 | 02:41 PM
  #3  
I've been poring over the diagrams, and I'm fairly certain it's part number 80730AR000, superseded by 80729-AR00B. The diagram doesn't show the rectangular piece it screws in to, and neither does it show the threading, so I'm still at a loss there. In this thread (https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...d-anymore.html) it's the golden bolt in the top right of the picture, opposite corner of the door from the kick-panel speaker and underneath the door lock cables.; it's loose on the driver side and not the passenger side, so I've been meaning to get it tightened, although the possible stripping is causing issues.

That being said, that same thread states that to adjust the window you just have to remove those black stickers to get to the bolts. My driver door is a half inch too high and squeaks/lets in wind noise, so I guess I'll try behind those stickers next.
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Jun 30, 2018 | 03:21 PM
  #4  
Just take off that flange of screws around the inner panel and take the inner panel completely off. Nothing falls off when you take the panel off it just exposes the inside of the door asembly, you will need to unplug the harness for the window motor and a couple cables that hold the motor to the INSIDE of the inner panel. That little track doesn't do anything from what I remember, I think it was bolted on after initial factory design for the inner panel went into production because the outer door lock cables will either make noise or the outer door panel will have an undesirable flex at that point. Either way it's super easy to get to that bolt you're having problems with.
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Jun 30, 2018 | 03:48 PM
  #5  
Quote: Just take off that flange of screws around the inner panel and take the inner panel completely off. Nothing falls off when you take the panel off it just exposes the inside of the door asembly, you will need to unplug the harness for the window motor and a couple cables that hold the motor to the INSIDE of the inner panel. That little track doesn't do anything from what I remember, I think it was bolted on after initial factory design for the inner panel went into production because the outer door lock cables will either make noise or the outer door panel will have an undesirable flex at that point. Either way it's super easy to get to that bolt you're having problems with.
Yeah, I've had the panel off before and it was a rather easy job. Unfortunately, the two window-track nuts/bolts on the bottom won't survive another moving, so I need to source replacements before doing that. Think I can get the bolt on the track out without removing the panel, possibly with a good pair of pliers? Just trying to eliminate all possible noise sources. Aside from that, hopefully the adjustment bolts behind the stickers fix my issues, already reset the window twice/reglued the inner wind-guard rubber pieces to be identical to the passenger side. Just need the window a half inch lower and I *should* be golden. Thankfully I've eliminated the "window-down" rattler over all but the biggest bumps, so this window alignment should be the last time I have to screw around inside the door.
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