After market camber arm ? Adjustable ??

 

Take it to an alignment shop.

 

 

 

You can eyeball it closer than it is yeah but unless you string box the car you're probably going to be wildly off with your toe adjustment (adjusting rear camber affects toe) and will likely end up destroying your tires. Unless you have a camber level and a string box I don't usually recommend people making their own alignment guesswork because it can cost you a set of tires by the time you are due for your next oil change.

 

Wow that is horrible. At any normal car dealer a 4 point alignment is $100 get er done before you go through a few sets of tires.

 

I'd recommend finding a local shop that works on modified cars and has a good reputation for an alignment. Also lifetime alignments are a great idea when you have a modified car, they'll be more expensive initially but they'll save you money in the long run. Hopefully you've budgeted money dedicated to repair and maintenance of your G. The older models with high mileage will need a lot of work done to get them back to like new condition replacing bushings, bearings, radiators, sensors etc. The money needed will be a lot higher if you can't do a lot of the work yourself, labor charges are the real killer of budgets. I'd expect a single alignment to run around $100 and a lifetime somewhere near $200.

 

A quick highjack.

I recently had my car aligned, they could not get my front camber to OEM spec, but set both front equally negative, slightly out of OEM spec. They told me if I got an adjustable alignment kit they would re-align my car for free. That was a month ago. Between now and then I bought a pair of Z1 adjustable FUCA and some Tein street basis coilovers. Will I need camber arms and traction arms for the rear now that I plan to install the coilovers?

 

Possibly. You also may be able to get away with just using the SPC bolts and cutting out the slots a little bit.

 

 

Alignment is one of those things you will eventually want to pay to have done. You cannot accurately measure hundredths of an inch by eye.

You can get a VERY close alignment by using a string box and a camber gauge though.

Simply eyeballed from the rear you can be toe +/-3° and not know. That's what will wreck a set of tires in weeks.

 

 

 

Was the wear cupping, feathering, or angular camber wear? All 3 are wear on the edges of the tire but each is caused by distinctly different reasons and only one of them is related to your set alignment. There's also a TSB about total toe and most alignment shops aren't aware of so it's good practice to give the shop specs you want the alignment set to rather than default values of whatever software they use.